umph

also valve amps depend alot more heavily on what you put into them.

you might want to look into hatke or something else along those lines aswell

[quote name='escholl' post='458885' date='Apr 9 2009, 10:21 PM']you could re-bias and use 6L6's, but that will just end up costing you the same or more. i should add, that only works with some amps. sadly, there's no way around the expense -- but it's worth it![/quote] its a different pinout so i wouldn't try and do that ;p unfortunatly most things use a 6l6 style base so it's a bit harder to find an unused rare type of valve to replace a el34

[quote name='escholl' post='459094' date='Apr 10 2009, 10:19 AM']our guitarist has one of those...all the way on one side, runs at class AB and puts out 100 watts; the other side and it runs just class A and puts out 30 watts guess who unwittingly gets set to run in class A a lot! [/quote] haha my guitarist thinks everything sounds better if its louder and bitches if hes not twice as loud as everyone its a bit strange

[quote name='fretmeister' post='458261' date='Apr 9 2009, 12:17 PM']Right then... on my bass board I have, in no particular order... Ibanez Weeping Demon wah Boss Line Selector EHX Metal Muff Marshall Jackhammer Marshall ED-1 compressor Korg Pitchblack tuner Digitech Synth Bass Wah MXR Carbon Copy Delay I have 1 space left... slightly larger than a boss pedal... I feel the need to put a pedal there!! - but a phaser or chorus or eq or fuzz or octave or some other squeltchy nonsense.... IDEAS PLEASE!!![/quote] get a ring mod =|;>

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='457969' date='Apr 8 2009, 11:36 PM']How you gonna turn it on and off without a pedal?[/quote] with a footswitch i guess

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='456728' date='Apr 7 2009, 07:38 PM']If you have a 9v AC wall wart going, Chiseerkind was after one.[/quote] i would mind one either ;l<

[quote name='escholl' post='458071' date='Apr 9 2009, 08:24 AM']that's pretty much what happened >.< them: "your bass is far too loud, it's making the room go 'whoouum' when we play" me: "oh really? well, if it's MY bass, why is it coming out of YOUR 4x12?"[/quote] haha specially marshall cabs, those things pump out mud like theres no tommorow

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='458021' date='Apr 9 2009, 12:49 AM']you seem to be suggesting that I ask 2 guitar players to turn their controls in a direction that isn't up? I don't think they are aware of the concept![/quote] its not a good idea they just get angry and turn up more then say the bass is far to loud

i'd say the wiring was questionable but you could sort that out fairly easily if you wanted! but for the price the sound/playability was good

[quote name='joegarcia' post='455832' date='Apr 6 2009, 08:47 PM']Sorry to say I haven't used either of the other two options. I've used an Ampeg 8x10 a few times but always with an SVT not my amp (at festivals etc) so couldn't really comment I'm afraid. Sorry to be so unhelpful. Basically, if you want an 8x10 I could fairly happily recommend the ABM810 for price they seem to be going for secondhand at the moment. I'd personally avoid the Mag purely coz it's ugly. The Marshall is worth investigating I reckon. The VBC-810 is good so could imagine the newer one being decent too. Cheap too.[/quote] i've had a go with the marshall it seemed to be all high mids and no low end

i could do with some glasses i think. try using some contact cleaner on the jack / pots

have you tried changing the strings / battery if its active?

[quote name='cheddatom' post='452246' date='Apr 2 2009, 11:13 AM']blue tack or insulation tape would stop your problem. I think there's the product you're after though, just google "two girls one cup".[/quote] if that fails try out goat.cx

[quote name='Marcus' post='454794' date='Apr 5 2009, 05:38 PM']Rule No1 Don't buy cheap valves ![/quote] or used ;p

[quote name='skankdelvar' post='454723' date='Apr 5 2009, 03:31 PM']Balanced valves give less hum, but other than that, no major benefits IIRC. There are variations in construction, output and character between the various mfrs and different types of EL-34, so I'd recommend you buy 6 of the same brand and type of el-34 - matched or unmatched. The most important thing is getting your new set of output valves biased. Unless you've got the gear and knowledge, you'll want to take it to a tech for that job. And (unless Thornybank already had it done) the amp may need a check-up anyhow - capacitors, transformers etc. If you've got a good amp tech, ask their opinion on which EL-34's they recommend for the task, then best put everything in their hands.[/quote] matched sets have a similar current draw, thus bias the same since most amps don't have seperate bias pots for each valve. getting unmatched valves can lead to some very nasty crossover distortion and the amp not putting out as much wattage as it could be doing

am i missing something or is double bass normally like that? seems to be alot of very bad note and rhythmic choices going on edit ; ahh watched some more videos changed my mind - definatly a genius ;<

more voltage = more gain on tap = the opamp amp can handle bigger swings in the voltage without distorting meaning a cleaner sound that goes higher and lower

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='450215' date='Mar 31 2009, 03:04 AM']Really? So a 100W solid state amp can actually produce around 200W of power?[/quote] technically yes but solid state amps tend to have their peak power pretty overrated especially older peavey/american amps which used a different scale to measure wattage which was just double the english one. Plus once you hit distortion it tends to sound pretty bad unless your using a mosfet power amp

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='450203' date='Mar 31 2009, 01:55 AM']Eh? I gigged an SVT Classic for a while and - while I didn't deliberately overdrive it - I didn't think it was that loud. I suppose you're talking about a higher perceived volume due to all the harmonics from the distortion? Just stick a distortion pedal before your solid-state amp. Same result.[/quote] ;< the power rating on valve amps is the clean power i.e before the wave form starts to distort, they will continue to amplify beyond this point putting out considerably more distorted watts, solid state does the same but sounds terrible if you do it.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='450151' date='Mar 31 2009, 12:14 AM']Get the same power you'd get with a solid-state head. With the same speakers the output ought to be the same, unless something is broken somewhere. Personally I'd be after 300W if I was intending to gig it.[/quote] have you ever cranked a 300watt valve amp? they put out 300 CLEAN watts about half way and will go up to around 600 DISTORTED watts fully cranked. if you crank a 300watt valve amp you'll end up killing any small children and animals unlucky enough to stroll into the venue to the original poster above 100watts is ideal but 50watts should be enough as long as it has a decent power supply / rectifier

get a real valve amp play it on full and control the distortion with your volume knob ;>

[quote name='jonthebass' post='447053' date='Mar 27 2009, 11:46 AM']Hi OBBM, What do you reckon about these new Orange amps being made with PCB's rather than the old turret board & point to point wiring - Any significant difference to the sound do you reckon? I was reading an American site waxing lyrical about the difference, but does it make [i]that[/i] much of a difference? Regards, JTB[/quote] in makes a difference in that PTP is generally more reliable than a pcb and far easier to service, i don't see how it'd make a difference tonally

get some 15s and a valve amp, tis the sure fire way

i couldn't ever get it to track