
BasistaFunky
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Hello there guys, I want to make a cosmetic correction to this black contour only in the place where it' s enclosed by the red: But first I'd like to mention that this black contour line wasn't done the standart way like - paint is applied to the wood first and then the laquier over it you know, it was made after the guitar was completely painted and laquiered, and then the laquer was sanded and matted and then the black line contour was drawn with a black permanent marker on it and then the whole guitar was re-lacquered on top with a clear polyurethane laquer to seal the black contour. So my question is - Instead of removing the whole lacquer of the guitar and drawing again the black contour with the permanent marker and lacquered the whole guitar again, is there any option to partially fix this detail? 🙂
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Hello there everyone, I wanna ask you all one very serious and important question because I really need help - It's about straightening the neck before levelling and crowning the frets. So if I don't have a notched straightedge is it possible, will it work and can I do it this way - using 4 little cylinder pieces like putting one on the 1st, two on the 8th and the 10th in the middle of the fingerboard, and one on the 20,22 or 24th fret, and then putting a normal perfectly flat straightedge over them and tightening the truss rod little by little until it touches the middle two cylinders so that way this to show me, and tell me that the neck is perfectly straight and flat? see the image down below:
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Hello there guys, I am building my own bass pedalboard here's how all my FX connections looks like: All they sound terrific, but the only problem is that when I turn on the drive channel on my EBS Billy Sheehan Ultimate Signature distortion pedal with my Mooer ABY switch, it gets a little microphonic noise feedback between the notes when I am playing and when the pedal stays on you know what I am talking about . So if I have to fix that like for example buying a noise gate with a SEND and RETURN outputs, and put my distortion pedal on the FX LOOP of the noise gate this way: 1. Will it remove that horrible microphonic noise when I turn on the pedal so I'll hear the distorted signal clearly with absolute silence when I stop playing when the pedal stays on and between the notes when I am playing? 2nd. And my last very important question is - If the distortion it's plugged into the SEND and RETURN loops of the noise gate - will it change the sound of the distortion itself and are there will be any difference if it's not plugged directly straight like: Bass > Distortion > IN Noise Gate OUT > IN Bass Amp. Thank you
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Ok guys what do you think if I use a guitar amplifier on/off toggle switch like this one? https://www.hotroxuk.com/carling-spst-toggle-switch-sw110-63.html
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Hello there guys, I am building my own pedal board and I have a couple very serious and important questions about the power supply. So my first question is - Can I add а on/off switch for the power on my pedalboard instead of plug and unplug the cable directly every time from the wall? My second question is - If this is possible and I buy this one for the solution: https://westcoastpedalboard.com/product/pedalboard-electrical-harness/ can I replace the two way toggle switch with a button footswitch to turn on and off the power with my foot instead of doing this by hand? And my third last question is - Again if all this is possible, are there a switch who is the same like this on the image with light build in and with the same sizes but in a form of a push button: And if there are any kind of this one in a form of a button with light build in will it work for the job and where can I find it? Thank you
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Hello there guys, I wanna ask you all very serious and important questions, because I really need big help and I hope you can help me. So I’ve got an discontinued very cheap 2007 British made Vintage V800BK bass with small body and P/J pickup configuration, the only thing I wanna do is to upgrade and change the pickups and the electronics to sound completely passive and loud without using active preamp, because the original passive ones have a very low output. I have another Squier P bass which have a more large body then the Vintage and more high output, so I made a test by taking out the P/J pickups from my Squier and put them on my Vintage and the result is the same low output quality actually. So does that mean if the body is large the output is high because the wood is resonating more when is large, and if it’s small the output is too low because the wood is not resonating much when it’s small size? if it’s that should I buy a high/hot DC resistance pickups to get high passive output from bass with small body, or putting A500k instead of A250k logarithmic pots, can you tell me what I should do to solve the problem please? Thank you
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Hello there guys, does anyone of you had any experience with the TC Electronic Brainwaves Pitch Shifter pedal using for drop bass tunings like - Eb, D, Db, C and B, does all the low notes sound clear without muddyness? If this pedal doesn’t work for the solution, wich other one you’ll recommend me to buy for drop tunings to solve the problem? Thank you.
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Hello there guys, I wanna ask you all one very important question because I need help. I have two Humbucker Soapbar pickups with 5 wires - 4 coloured: 2 + and 2 - for each coil and one bare shield for the ground, I know the colour codes and I wanna split the coils of both humbuckers like - front/both/back with two 3 way mini toggle switches, but the problem is that I don’t know how to do it. So my question is first what kind of 3 way mini toogle switches I have to use: on/on/on or on/off/on and with how many terminals - 3 or 6?, and second I need the proper wiring diagram to do the job so I hope you can help me. Thank you 😊
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Hello there everyone, I wanna ask you all one very serious and important question. I have 2 soapbar closed no hole pickups and I wanna make a finger radius ramp, like putting an polyester resin over the face of the pickups and the thickness of the resin will be about 3 milimeters thick. So my serious question is - if I do it will that affect and change the sound and the tone of the pickup or not? Thank you
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Hello there Trace guys, I have a very serious and important question because I need help. I have a Trace Elliot AH130 Series 6 Gp7 amp head see the 2 photos down. The problem is when I turn up the volume to sound louder through my two Trace 4x10 and 1x15 cabinets at 4 Ohms the transistors start to overheat a lot and I am afraid that will damaging the amplifier. The transistors are not actually the original ones and were replaced couple times, So my question is - Can you tell me please where can I find original transistors for this amp to replace the current ones, or if there are no more original transistors anywhere and they are not found wich ones you’ll recommend me to put and repair the amp to work properly and have no more problems? I am urgently waiting for your answer Thank you.
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Hello there guys, I wanna ask you all a couple very important questions because I need help. So I’ve got an discontinued very cheap 2007 British made Vintage V800BK Bass that I bought 15 years ago, the neck is Maple with rosewood fingerboard and the body is made of several laminated wood pieces of Eastern Poplar. It has a PJ pickup configuration with reversed P-Bass pickup, so the only thing I wanna do is to upgrade and change the pickups and the electronics, because the original ones they completely suck sound awful and have a very low output, and I wanna buy two Seymour Duncan QP- SPB-3 P bass neck DC: 12,5 Kohm and SJB-3B singlecoil bridge DC: 14,61 Kohm. I read about these SD pickups that they are HOT, so my question is will these passive pickups will work and solve the low output signal problem on my cheap bass on both modes Passive and Active(with preamp module that have a trimpot for adjusting the gain when I switch them on active mode)? If they doesn’t which one you’ll recommend? Thank you. 🙂