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joegarcia

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Everything posted by joegarcia

  1. I'd personally go for a nice passive DI like a Radial but these are a bit more pricey. On a budget I'd have the Studiospares one here: [url="http://www.studiospares.com/DI-Boxes/Studiospares-Active-DI-Box/invt/448290"]http://www.studiospares.com/DI-Boxes/Studi...Box/invt/448290[/url] But only if you really want an active one. This is a good passive option I reckon and is what I'd probably go for in that price bracket: [url="http://www.studiospares.com/DI-Boxes/ART-PDB-Passive-DI-Box/invt/325650"]http://www.studiospares.com/DI-Boxes/ART-P...Box/invt/325650[/url]
  2. Hmm.. I love my D6 and would love that i5 to complement it. Would you be interested in a trade for my Barber DirtyBomb?
  3. Thanks guys, sorry but I already have a Whammy.
  4. Thought this would get snapped up quickly. Heavy distortion with really powerful EQ and a big bass boost (if required) made by highly respected company in new condition.
  5. Barber Dirty Bomb [attachment=48234:P1010468.JPG] [attachment=48235:P1010471.JPG] As new condition with box and instructions. Barber blurb: Extremely versatile, high gain distortion, provides wider range of stellar tones. From ultra chunky, to scooped and back to thick again. Toggle switch selects mid range character for three distinct modes. Sweet and powerful Vintage two band E.Q. Internal adjustable Bass Boost for powerful sub frequencies. True bypass footswitch delivers clarity when bypassed. All hand wired in the USA, traditional award winning Barber layout and wiring. Cascading FET circuit, with MOSFET distortion for incredibly realistic tube quality sounds. £80 + P&P May consider trades, particularly after a ZVEX Box of Rock or decent true stereo reverb or delay pedals or analogue delays.
  6. [quote name='Beedster' post='809730' date='Apr 17 2010, 07:02 PM']Now that we're turned on to the idea, could you give me some more info as to the differences between yours and the Unibass Joe, might just be interested in yours to A-B the two and keep that one I prefer? Funnily enough, at the rehearsal the Unibass sounded much better through my bass amp than through a separate guitar setup. The latter exposed its weakness I think? Cheers Chris[/quote] Haven't used it for a while, will fire it up this afternoon and have a play and get back to you.
  7. Yea I saw that. Ridiculously overpriced though.
  8. Clever pedal but I didn't get on with the shifted sound, even run through another (really nice) amp with good drive pedals. In the end I opted for a Foxrox Octron and a few different fuzz and drive pedals. Very shameless plug but the Black Cat Bass Octave Fuzz I'm selling does a very similar thing for those more into an analog, less clinical sound. It doesn't have separate outputs but the blend control is very effective and you can get some really nice subtle drives out as well as full on snarl. With these kinds of pedals I thought you had to choose between tracking and tone as to me the Micropog/OC-3/UB-1/PS-5 and other digital shifters track well but sound really fake IMO but the Octron and Black Cat proved me wrong as they do both.
  9. Bump. Will take £250 for the Marshall I reckon and £275 for the Schecter.
  10. Can't believe there's no interest n this. Really cool, rare pedal!
  11. Thanks for the suggestion but I really want something small like an Alesis Nanopiano that I can squeeze on my pedal board. Gonna be using a midi organ pedal for key parts.
  12. I'm looking for something small and cheapish with a passable organ sound. Any of these do that?
  13. 5150 sold. Schecter and Marshall still available. Can leave the Vintage 30's in if anyone prefers. Nice and crunchy. Sounds awesome for bass with a drivey amp along with a bassy amp/cab.
  14. Depends on the power amp but you might find the DI outputs on the VXL might not be enough to drive them well.
  15. Yes, lots. There's one behind me now and I have two at my rehearsal room. What do you want to know?
  16. [quote name='SS73' post='792242' date='Mar 31 2010, 06:06 PM']Ok, got it, mine has two sets of numbers 24101270 and 1377049, the later is the one we are after, 137= Chicago made, 70= year, 49= 49th week. Hang on that is Dec 70!![/quote] Wow. Mine is 1377035. Just a few months older than yours from the same factory.
  17. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='792114' date='Mar 31 2010, 04:30 PM']40 year old amp that's been treated badly enough to kill the power transformer and is grotty is good enough reason.[/quote] Sure, maybe enough reason for a service but to assume it needs lots of work is a bit presumptuous I hope. Just put the power transformer back in for shipping, gonna take the valves out and wrap them up separately too. [attachment=46133:P1010360.JPG]
  18. [quote name='SS73' post='791988' date='Mar 31 2010, 02:50 PM']Woh, that is seriously early, try this for dating, www.unofficialampeg.com/dating.html Looking like its an early 70 or a late 69. Slide out the main chassis and on the bias pot's are dates, mine read xxxxx-1270 = dec 1970.[/quote] Mine ends in 1270 too. Is that a strange coincidence or is that not the date?
  19. Going by these gut shots I fear you might be right though. [attachment=46118:P1010350.JPG] [attachment=46119:P1010354.JPG] [attachment=46120:P1010357.JPG]
  20. [quote name='umph' post='791937' date='Mar 31 2010, 02:18 PM']i hope your taking that in for a full service, that looks like its going to need a lot more work than just a transformer rewind.[/quote] That's a pretty annoying thing to say without an explanation.
  21. [quote name='umph' post='791937' date='Mar 31 2010, 02:18 PM']i hope your taking that in for a full service, that looks like its going to need a lot more work than just a transformer rewind.[/quote] I am but why do you say that?
  22. Can anyone offer any guidance on dating it? What does the chrome chassis indicate? I guess it's a '69 or a '70 but would be nice if someone in the know could confirm it. The serial is 005165.
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