MichaelDean

There is such a long list of basses I'd like to try (just saw a Dunable bass that caught my eye...). Plus a fair few skinny stringers. I'm happy with my effects/amp/cab situation though. Can't see any of that needing to change anytime soon.

You can try out the Helix Native plugin for 15 days as well to see if it might be the right flavour of multi-fx/moddler for you. https://uk.line6.com/helix/helixnative.html

I guess there's the GSS Sumo range and there's the GR Bass Pure range. Seems like quite a small offering though.

I'm still in!

Just also to say, the only reason I've ever put a high mass bridge on any bass is because the BBOT doesn't normally have grooves to hold the saddles in place. If you hit hard with a pick, it's possible to knock them out of alignment, which makes the whole thing sound a bit out of tune. I haven't noticed any tonal difference from swapping bridges.

I'm not saying that I need a high mass bridge, and I can indeed get the sustain I need from my Dingwall. I'm just saying that I do want all of the sustain. Just that one point was what I was countering.

I do! What if I want a note to ring out for 2/4/8/16 bars? I need the sustain for the music I play. I don't want a thumpy tone of flats and foam. Never have. Not sure if I'd even want to play the music that needs that tone.

No, I wouldn't! There's a fair mass of wood the other end. I've just heard that on a strap it can feel like a fair old stretch to the first fret. I look forward to seeing it in person!

Oooooh, nice! I hear they're a pig ergonimically, but they look fun!

I forgot the well known but not often used wood clue. A Korina Explorer or Flying V?

Ooooh, a Starcaster bass?

That's a pretty open first clue! There are a lot of basses that aren't available new... Epiphone Thunderbird Vintage Pro in white?

Yeah, that's amazing! Thanks for sharing!

A luthier told me the other day that you can delicately wick a bit of low viscosity super glue into the hole for the strap button screws and it'll strengthen the wood, helping to prevent it from tearing out. Then, as above, a bit of thread lock should stop any movement.

I've got some on my keys that then go everywhere with me. They came in a little cylinder with a keyring on it.

I quite like the effect in the verse. Gives it a different texture. I wouldn't use it anywhere else in any other songs that you're planning on releasing at the same time though. I reckon it's a one song only sort of a thing.

I've never had enough pedals to build different boards for each gig! Sounds like it could be a fun way to do it as long as it doesn't bring an extra element of pre-gig panic.

@Basvarken don't feel you need to, but it's always nice to see how basses are made.

He makes some really nice looking stuff and occasionally posts build threads here. Here's a thread of his "grabbird" build. I'd love to try some of his basses out!

Only as long as you dispose of the gloves correctly... http://www.iowaiai.org/latent-fingerprints-on-latex-gloves/

Always learning things when it comes to building a bass. Today's lesson was a two-parter! You can't steam a fretboard off in a lunch break Start at the heel end and you're less likely to splinter/split the neck! I watched a YouTube video where someone steamed off a guitar fretboard in 25 minutes. I felt emboldened. I was misguided! 🤣 I've not got massive splits, and they haven't come off entirely, but I thought it would be easier to start at the nut end as there was a nice, easy access point. I was wrong! I'll be able to glue them up though, so it'll be fiiiiiine 😅 The wenge is very brittle. It broke off quite a lot and couldn't have been reglued. Plus, as you can see below, it has bowed a bit now it's off! I'll need to spend some more time with it and get the rest off another day. Astute onlookers may also be wondering where the channel for the truss rod is. It's hidden under a maple sliver. The slot was a bit deep, so at the suggestion of a friend, it was filled from the front. There is still plenty of material to carve a comfy shape at the back though.

I also love the feel of a resonant instrument. I returned an otherwise very nice bass recently because it wasn't as resonant as my other basses. I found it also translated to the sustain. It wasn't as long and didn't ring out in the same way. I've had it with electric guitars too. I purchased a Harley Benton Tele a while back to mod as I see fit. One of the things I did was to replace the neck screws with bots and threaded inserts. It made it more resonant and increased the sustain. I can feel the neck resonate now where it didn't before. The whole thing feels a bit more alive.

I owned a 4 string Dimension in the old series for a week. That thing didn't sustain like my other basses, which made it feel a bit underwhelming. I know some people don't care about sustain, but I need it for what I play. Hopefully that was a just a duff one. Very much enjoyed the ergonomics of it though and I think the 9th fret being the parallel fret might fit me better than the 7th on my Dingwall. I'd be keen to try one of these new ones out!

Not a lot of progress, but the new fretboard arrived today. Looks good and no additional VAT! So feels like a bit of a bargain! It is a bit thinner than what I have already and seems to be pretty light, so hopefully that'll be a gram or two off. I think it'll look really good with the matching board. I've had a crazy idea of using a small angle grinder to carve the heel joint. My father in law has one I'm sure he'd lend me. I'm not sure about either using a carving disc or a flap disc. Does anyone have any opinions? All this has got me thinking about a second build too. I'll see how gluing the fretboard goes on for this, but I'd love a 4 string multiscale...

Definitley an Alpher. I reckon it's this one... https://www.instagram.com/p/B61OuqCAz0s/?img_index=1