BigRedX

With a multimeter or continuity tester. TBH, If you don't have at least one of those you probably shouldn't be doing your own wiring as you have no way of checking what you have done wrong if it's not working properly.

2.4 has a better range and is slightly less worse in poor line of sight transmission situations. However it has to compete for bandwidth with far more devices especially at crowded gigs, which at the moment makes it far less reliable than 5.8. However that advantage may disappear in the future. IME if you are going to be suffering from range issues with a 5.8 device you probably need to be looking at seriously pro wireless systems and not ones based on WiFi.

It was discussed in this thread back in August. The general consensus then was that the bridge is by John Birch, and the rest could be anything. If it was a genuine JB it would have had John Birch pickups on it when it was originally made, and I can't think of any sensible reason to replace them.

If any of them are on the Mu:zines wanted list they will be more than grateful to receive them.

This came up on another forum, and the advice from several experienced electrical engineers was that a better and more permanent contact between the screw terminal and the wire conductor was achieved if you did not tin the wires, because the copper strands can compress and essentially cold weld to the terminal under the pressure from the screw.

You only need to worry about the core slipping on strings with a round core. Unless it specifically states on the strings that they are round core you can safely assume that they are hex core and it's OK to cut the strings to length before bending them.

Since all my old photos in this thread were on Photobucket, here's a more recent one of me that you'll actually be able to see:

IME scale length on its own has little effect on the sound and feel of low B. It is all down to the construction of the bass and the right choice of strings. If I was in the OP's position I would first try another set of strings, maybe one with a taper-wound B string. Remember that strings that work with one bass will not necessarily be the best choice for another. All my basses are fitted with different strings because each has a set that suits that particular bass the best. If the problem persists look first at the neck joint. With the strings fitted but not tuned to pitch very slightly loosen the neck bolts - about half a turn is normally sufficient. Then tune the bass to pitch and leave for a few hours to settle. Then tighten the neck bolts up again. What this does is to use the tension of the strings to pull the neck tightly into the neck pocket which makes the joint as strong as possible. If you are still getting dead spot problems then try a Fat Finger as suggested although be aware that this works by moving the position of the dead spot to somewhere where it is hopefully less obvious rather than removing it.

But it was way better than the finishes that followed - that partially see-through white that looked as though they'd run out of rattle can and couldn't be bothered to get another one to complete the job, or sh!t brown.

The break angle over the nut needs to be sufficient to hold the string in place whilst not reducing the compliance of the string. If you look at the first photo in the OP you'll see that the G and D strings pass under a string retainer and therefore their break angle is fixed by the position of the string retainer. Since this is obviously a sufficient angle, it follows that ideally the E and A strings should have the same break angle. That means the A string should probably have one more turn around the post and the E one less.

It was an auction so it would have probably reached a realistic price by the end. If it does re-appear with a significantly higher start price that might actually put some bidders off. I tried to buy a Shaftesbury-badged guitar version back in about 1976, but I couldn't persuade my parents to lend me the rest of the money I needed. IIRC although it was second hand, it was in immaculate condition and the shop only wanted £45 for it!

Unfortunately that interface has had to compromised in order to maintain the overall playability.

Fret sensing seems to be the preferred method at the moment. Alternatively have a look at the Roland V-Bass system which is based around modelling to process the audio output of the individual strings.

I used them quite a bit in the days when Alan at ACG was stocking them. They're nothing like Elixirs so if you are after something similar you may be disappointed. Since they have become less easy to find in the UK I've stopped using them and now favour Warwick Black Label for my basses that would have had SIT string before.

I've just been looking at getting a ticket to see Cabaret Voltaire at Rock City next year. The face value ticket price is £35.00 On top of that is £5.88 booking fee and a £1.50 E-Ticket charge bringing the total price up to £42.38, and this is from Rock City's own web site. If you want to buy them from any of the other ticket sites it's even more expensive. It used to be possible to bypass these fees by going in person to the Rock City box office. I'm in town for a client meeting tomorrow so I'll go and have a look to see if this is still the case. IMO if there is no way of avoiding these additional charges then they should not be additional and be part of the actual face value ticket price. And if they can be avoided by buying in person rather than on-line then this information should be made available at the time of purchase. I suspect that there is some creative accounting reason why they are additional.