BigRedX

Is there a reason you've chosen eBay over Discogs to sell your vinyl? Regarding fees are you talking listing fees or final sales fees? If your talking listing fees then you must be doing something wrong, as I've sold thousands of items on eBay over the last 15 years and I have never paid any listing fees. Ever. As for final sales fees, you need to consider the alternatives; you could take your records to a store that sells second hand vinyl, where if you are are really lucky you'll get about a third of what the shop hopes to sell them for. Otherwise where else is there? I suppose you could do a car boot... (shudders)

If you want to tune down an octave from standard guitar tuning you will need a set of Bass VI strings and with the shortened scale length probably one of the heavier versions. If you want flats AFAIK only LaBella do a set - 26 to 95 highest to lowest. Picato are also supposed to do a set but I can't find any details so assume that these are no longer available. If you want round wound string you have more choice: LaBella: 26-95 Newtone Axion: 24-100 GHS Eastwood Hooky: 30-105 I'd start with the Newtones as they are the cheapest and see how you get on. However you might need to replace the machine heads with a set designed for a Fender or Squier Bass VI which have guitar-sized gears and buttons but a slotted string post wide enough for a typical Bass VI string. Ultimately you might be better off selling the guitar and buying a Squier Bass VI instead. Edit: The set of guitar strings you posted won't be anything like heavy enough. I use a 56 "E" for drop D tuning on one of my guitars. Tuned any lower and it would be flopping about all over the place.

Also does the problem happen in both directions or just page forward?

How old is this device? I would suspect mechanical failure somewhere in the pedal mechanism either in the part you press or the electrical contacts beneath, which is causing it to send out multiple messages. I believe you can connect this via USB as well as Bluetooth. It might be worth trying this so we can narrow down the problem.

Is this controlled by a foot pedal? If so that's where I would be looking first. Does anyone know if there is a utility that can capture and display Bluetooth messages? That would be a good tool to help troubleshoot the problem.

I've not seen many tribute bands (they're not really my thing), but the ones I have seen were while being suitably competent musically, were visually and from a performance PoV a very poor substitute for the real thing; which for me is the whole point of going to SEE a band.

As BFM said in your other thread on this subject, when you get the cab you need to take some photos of the existing drivers and measure the internal dimensions of the cab. The the knowledgeable people on here can point you in the direction of some replacement drivers that are suitable for this cab.

My standard method of dealing with people looking for money off due to completely insignificant or imaginary problems is to offer them a full refund if they return the item and no alternatives. I'll be very polite and apologetic, but I won't enter into any dialogue with them over discounts or partial refunds; they are obviously not 100% happy so they should return the item and get their money back. In every case I have never heard anything more from the buyer.

The aesthetically uncomfortable shape looks like a product of the piece wood used, rather than any conscious design decision on the part of the maker.

Unsurprising really, it's a bass designed for a short scale neck fitted with a long scale one.

Get in touch with Newtone and they should be able to make you what you want.

I would confirm the fact that scale length has little impact on how easy or not a bass is to play. I'm fairly small for a bloke (just under 5' 6") and for all of the 80s I played a short scale bass, not because it was easier or more comfortable, but because it was the most interesting looking one in the shop when I bought it. In the 90s it was replaced by an Overwater 36" scale 5-string. I knew this bass was a longer scale than the one I'd used before, but I wasn't aware of how much until I bought a set of standard 34" strings and they didn't fit. These days I swap between 34" scale 5-strings and 30" scale Bass VI (6-string bass tuned an octave lower than a guitar) depending on which of my two bands I'm playing with and don't notice any real difference in playability.

As someone who has built solid electric instruments (in the late 70s and from scratch when there was virtually no information available on the subject) I would offer the following observations: If you are intending to use it as a first step in a bass building "career" then then I think it makes an interesting and useful starting point. However from my experience of building and modifying instruments it seems to me that thesis are kits very much of two parts. The basic assembly appears to offer no more challenge than assembling a simple piece of Ikea flat-pack furniture. (I know people joke about how hard that is, but in reality it's easy if you work carefully and follow the instructions, and if that is beyond your capabilities then I despair.) You don't even need to be able to solder, as the main wiring loom is pre-assembled and the pickup has a plug-in connection. However if you want to do something interesting with the paddle-shaped headstock, you will need the appropriate tools, some degree of skill in using them and somewhere appropriate to do it. It's going to be the same with the finishing of the neck and body if you want to do anything more ambitious than a simple oil finish. I know from personal experience that even a simple solid colour finish requires significant expertise and skill to even get close to the standard of a budget Chinese instrument, as well as a well ventilated and temperature controllable space to do it in. And I also know from my experience that anything less than near perfection is going to seriously bug you. Also as other have said it appears that most of the hardware is pretty poor, and if you do end up making a decent job of the build, you'll most likely want to look at replacing all of it. So you may well be better off just buying a basic neck and body and sourcing decent hardware yourself. Overall this would be a more challenging experience and you'll learn a lot more about building instruments in the process and you can create something to your own spec. On the other hand if you just want a cheap bass, there are plenty of ready made ones to chose from.

Cheesy Guitars is what you are looking for

There was a whole discussion about this at various levels of quality and expense on the Sound On Sound forums. I'll see if I can remember which forum it was in...

No that's not right. When you say the volume doesn't work, is is stuck on full or off? I'd be looking for something on the harness touching something that it shouldn't. Is the control cavity screened?

Both were mostly made of metal and one was under £50…

When they were called "Lightwave" I owned a Sabre FL4-string semi-hollow body with both fretted and fretless necks. I like the Lightwave idea a lot. However one of it's main selling points that you can use lots of different strings was a bit of a non-starter when I discovered just how much set up adjust meant would be required every time I made a major change to the string type, so once I found a set I likes (the first ones I tried after the set that were on mine when I bought it) I stuck with those. Setting up was both a mechanical and electrical procedure - firstly you had to align the pickups with the strings and then tweak the output of each individual string via trim pots inside the control cavity. However once you'd get this right the tonal response from one string to another was very even, so well worth the effort. I didn't much like the action and intonation adjustments thought as they both requires slackening off the string to perform. By the time I'd got my bass set up how I liked it, the stings had been tightened and loosened so much they might as well have been secondhand! However I believe that the bridge/pickup mechanism has gone through at least one more iteration since mine (I had on the Mk2 version) and may be a lot more user friendly now. The version I had also had piezo pickups (called ice-tone IIRC) which added an extra dimension to the tone but also on the hollow body a lot of handling noise, so when I did use this I kept the level low. The final thing to consider its powering it. Again this may have changed with the new models, but mine required an external PSU to charge the battery inside the bass which connected via a non-standard socket. Also because I imported mine directly from the US it came with a 110V charger that required a step-down transformer to make it work. However you could play the instrument whilst charging it so even if you forgot to charge regularly so long as you had the PSU you were OK. Having said all that if I found myself in another band that need fretless bass and I could find a 5-string that looked as nice as my 4-string did, I would definitely get it. If you have any specific questions post here and I'll do my best to answer, bearing in mind that a lot of the quibbles I had with my bass may well have been addressed by now.

I've bought at least two basses that were brought to my attention by threads in that forum.

I would suspect that very few people buy a modelling system just so they can have the sound of one particular amp and not have to use the "real thing", but like me the bought one because it offers a multitude of sound shaping facilities in a single box. As I've said before I don't care how "authentic" any of the models are, and TBH I don't have enough experience of any of the amp models provided to even be able to know. All that matters to me is whether they help produce the sound(s) that is in my head.

At one point I owned nearly 50 guitars and basses not to mention numerous synthesisers, samplers and other studio hardware and loads of audio software, as well as amps cabs and effects both pedals and rack mounted. I'd also spent a serious amount of money transforming a room in my property to house it all in. Today I am down to 9 guitars and basses and I only have 3 of those because I haven't got around to listing them for sale yet. All the amps cabs and effects have gone, replaced by a Helix Floor and an RCF745 FRFR. The studio hardware and software has also gone apart from Logic (a desktop and laptop to run it on) a Focusrite audio/MIDI interface and a single 3rd party instrument plug-in. I don't need any more gear, however when I get around to selling those surplus guitars and basses I'll probably also sell the Burns Barracuda and replace it with a second Eastwood Hooky. Ideally I'd like to have both my Bass VIs replaced with instruments made by Gus, but that isn't likely to be affordable any time soon. I enjoyed "collecting" but now I'm over it and concentrating on just having instruments that will actually get used.

Fair enough, but it hasn't always.

And a quick reminder that Hurtsfall will be playing the "In The Black Midwinter" festival in Sheffield next weekend. We're on first in the evening on Sunday 18th at around 7.00pm, but if you're into your gothic post-punk music the whole weekend is worth seeing.

Yes you can. Basschat should save where you are in your typing so that when you return to the thread and click "reply" everything you wrote previously will still be there. It's caught me out a few times when I've started to reply to a thread and then something else has come up, several days/weeks later I find I have a useful contribution to make, and much to my surprise my half finished reply come back up. I don't know if there is a limit to how many "drafts" you can have but in theory you could have one for every thread... However what's wrong with opening an extra tab/window or two (or more)?

Once again excellent stuff! Is it just me or is the vocal delivery reminiscent of Howard Devoto?