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Everything posted by BigRedX
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Just had very poor service from DPD as detailed in the other thread.
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How/why do people allow their gear to get in a state?
BigRedX replied to TheGreek's topic in General Discussion
However even at minimum wage rates it's more economical to fit a set of £5.00 strings then it is to go through all that cleaning hassle. -
Whilst I never really used the extremes of the filters, I didn't find it too hard to adjust the controls to find the sound I wanted on each pick-up. I was using mine with two very different basses - a Pedulla Buzz with the typical P-J configuration and a Sei fitted with Ibanez GW1 pickups, so having a larger range of adjustment could have been beneficial, but ultimately wasn't needed (by me).
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How/why do people allow their gear to get in a state?
BigRedX replied to TheGreek's topic in General Discussion
IME accumulated dirt and damage doesn't always register with the player if it has been gradually acquired over a long period of time. I had a bass which I sold some years ago as someone on here had actually put a wanted ad up for that particular make and model, and I thought "I've got one of those which I don't need anymore". The bass in question had spent most of it's life as a back-up to my Overwater during the 90s, and therefore had very little use - it had spent most of it's life either in a flight case or on a stand at the back of the stage. It would get used occasionally at rehearsals just so I could check I could play all our songs using it, but had never been actually used at a gig. Since I had bought my first Gus it had gone permanently into storage. When I got the bass out of its case I was very surprised to see that it was covered in grime and a multitude of dings, dents and scratches that had never registered with me before. I spent a good half a day cleaning it and photographing all the damage, luckily the buyer was still interested. However I only did that because it was being sold in response to a wanted ad. Had I just been listing it on eBay, it would have been sold as it came out the case with a few photos showing the worst dents and dings, and something in the description to cover the condition. -
Just get the Boss dual pedal that was mentioned earlier in the thread. It's switchable between latching and non-latching. If that one doesn't work then there is something wrong with the amp (and you can always send the pedal back).
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SOLVED: Help me identify a bass... from a poor description!
BigRedX replied to pantherairsoft's topic in Bass Guitars
Those prices are somewhat inflated since they are for the US distributor and will include EU to US shipping and import taxes as well as a distributor mark-up. -
SOLVED: Help me identify a bass... from a poor description!
BigRedX replied to pantherairsoft's topic in Bass Guitars
Basslab used to offer a service where you could try one of their instruments for a small fee plus shipping costs, before deciding to buy it or place an order for one of your own specification. -
Two things you can do. 1. Go to your local bicycle shop and ask for a bike box. Normally they are only too glad to get rid of them, and with current boom in bicycle sales they have more than usual to dispose of. Cut the box down to the right size to fit your bubble-wrapped instrument. IME bike boxes are made of far stronger card than the typical musical instrument box and will take a lot more punishment. 2. Buy a cheap hard case for the purposes of shipping the bass. It ought to come with a cardboard box, so you can simply open the package when it arrives, put the bass in the hard case, add bubble wrap if required, and replace in it box ready for sending.
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SOLVED: Help me identify a bass... from a poor description!
BigRedX replied to pantherairsoft's topic in Bass Guitars
Also used on the Born To Rock guitars and basses, although in this case it was to allow the design to do away with the need for a truss rod. -
If you look at the actual Jammy website you'll find that the latency is around 10ms which puts it right at the acceptable limit for a controller, and will rule out the use of anything that it does not directly interface with - i.e. external hardware driven via the computer/DAW. A pretty good idea that hasn't quite been properly implemented. Also the use of USB-C connectors for the digital interface means studio use only. High-tech instrument manufacturers need to come to terms with the fact that modern computer connectors and cables are completely unsuited to use in a gigging environment.
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Having owned basses with filter pre-amps on them (ACG EQ01), the ability to "tune-in" each pickup for the sound you want and then use the pick-up blend control the adjust between them is the biggest strength (IME) of this system. It's initially a lot of daunting-looking controls but the Cut-off Frequency and Q controls for each pickup tend to be "set and forget" and then you just have one control (blend) to get a wide variety of sounds.
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You need to ask?
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IIRC whenever I've had something sent from the US via USPS tracked the ParcelForce number has been the same with the US suffix placed by GB.
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The UK charge VAT on all imported items marked as "Gift" over £36.00 including postage (twice the limit on items not marked as gift).
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It's usually the same number but with the GB suffix replaced with the local variant.
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Post in The Netherlands seems to be very slow for imports from the Uk at the moment. My GF sent something to a friend there just before Christmas and it only arrived at the end of last week!
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It appears the seller of this one has included a screen grab of my original listing which states the weight of mine as 4.6kg
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I'm sorry but I'm going to have to let @Maude down, partly due to the amount of paying work I have on at the moment (I'm a free-lancer so if I have work I really need to be doing it), and partly because my current 3D programme of choice doesn't have the correct function required to make this logo properly in 3D which is the ability to extrapolate between two shapes whilst extruding. Because all my current 3D work is for 2D images, I could have fudged it for my normal use, but that won't produce a printable 3D model, so I'm going to have to admit defeat. I have been able to create the two shapes needed for the extrapolation which I'll attach to this post if anyone else needs to make use of them. Hofner Top.eps Hofner Bottom.eps
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No. The body is hollow. Mine was filled with flight-case foam sheets.
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Thanks. I might not have it done until tomorrow. I'll send you back the .stl file. @Maude how long and what diameter do you need the locating pins?
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I've got highly specialised requirements in terms of both looks and functionality when it come to my musical equipment and unfortunately neither of those things come cheap.
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I don't own a 3D printer - all my 3D work is done to produce 2D graphical product images, but applying a taper to the logo in most 3D applications is part of the extrusion process. If I was creating this I would simply take a vector version of the Hofner logo (there's one available for free at Brands Of The World), size to 46mm length and extrude about 2-3mm applying a slight positive or negative taper depending on whether the full width of the "strokes" is at the top or bottom of the object.
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IIRC the original version of these pickups as fitted to the early Enfield basses worked in conjunction with a special pre-amp in order to match the output of the different coil configurations. Under those circumstances an instrument with three of these pickups wouldn't be possible.
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Personally I'd have removed the potentially slanderous posts (and given those that post them a warning) and kept the thread open, but I don't own Basschat and I'm not a moderator, so it's not my call.
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How do I diagnose a "broken" active pickup?
BigRedX replied to LeftyJ's topic in Repairs and Technical
There isn't any way to do this. These "active" pickups are just a standard coil around a magnet (albeit at a different impedance to "passive" pickups) wired directly to a pre-amp/impedance matching circuitry all encased in epoxy. What you are actually measuring is the impedance of the output side of the "active" electronics and gives no indication of what the coils are doing. In fact the problem is far more likely to be a failure of one of the pre-amp components, rather than a problem with the coils. I think if it really is dead you'll probably have to bin and replace.