BigRedX

Our "German Friend"... Maybe all of his items should be added to the list of stuff not to post.

Doesn't sound that different to any other "Post Rock" band to me.

That's nasty IMO.

So the two "blue" ones are supposed to be the same colour? Which is closest to the real thing? I like the second version and would be mightily disappointed if it turned up looking more like the first.

A guitarist I have worked with had the "silverface" amp only version which he used in conjunction with a variety of 4x12 guitar cabs. BTW I was under the impression that up to the mid 70s most "bass" amps were simply re-badged guitar amps.

The original Fender Bassman amp turned out to be far more popular with guitarists than it was with bassists.

If the build quality is the same as the Edifier version, I wouldn't bother with then, no matter how wonderful they supposedly sound. Simply not robust enough for the average musician's use.

As the others have said, a complete pain to sort out - especially the first time when it all can appear very daunting. When I was registering my first release I made extensive use of the telephone help line to work out which bits definitely need to be filled in (and how) and which bits I could sadly ignore. If it's for a self-released record/CD make sure that you register both as a record label and as a musician. Luckily you only need to fill in the information once in your record label capacity.

Plenty of info here about Les Paul's input into the Signature Bass.

I wonder if the whole bridge/tailpiece/neck have been moved forward for some reason? The photos of the original examples do appear to have the tailpiece closer to the end of the body. Is there any evidence of extra screw holes under the finish? Regarding the tuners, do the buttons come off? If so you could make/get some more visually suitable replacements for them.

Probably worth it just for that "vintage" capacitor.

IIRC the original Sims pickups had to be paired with their own pre-amp that worked in conjunction with the coil switching to prevent noticeable changes in level when selecting the different coil modes. Has the revised version got around this problem?

I buy Herco Flex 75s, a hundred at a time. I make sure that there is always at least one in every bag or guitar case that I am likely to be taking to rehearsal and/or gigs, plus one tucked between the strings of every guitar or bass that I am currently using. When the box of a hundred starts to look a bit empty I order another one. I started this practice in the early 90s and I am currently on my 4th box. If I start gigging again next year I'll probably be thinking about placing another order in 12 months time.

Yes, Simply lopped off the Euro plug and fitted a good quality UK 13A one.

I think that lack of snugness combined with the weight of the transformer in the plug and the fact that it was plugged into a horizontally mounted mains distribution board, all contributed to the failure. Normal 13A plugs on the end of IEC leads have all been fine. The worrying thing was that the 1-Spot only had to work itself a little way out of the socket before it no longer received any power. A quick feel inside the back of the rack, mid-gig didn't reveal anything amiss, but once I'd got everything home and checked it over the following day, it was obvious what had happened. Mine now provides power for the drummer's headphone amplifier. Now that it's no longer hidden away inside a rack case it's been fine. I think if I was going to use it in a rack system again, it would be glued/cable-tied into place to make sure there was no way it could move. BTW I replaced the one in my rack with one of these which IIRC was actually cheaper, and for my needs much more reliable.

Also they don't fit as snugly in UK mains sockets as they should. Mine, which was inside a rack case attached to a high quality mains distributor, worked it's way just loose enough for it to stop working randomly mid-performance, despite the fact it looked/felt as though it was still plugged in. Caused the rig I was using at the time to to go silent (including the PA feed) for no obvious reason having taken out both the wireless system and the Thumpinator - devices at either end of the signal chain. It was replaced with something more reliable before the next gig. For home use it will be fine but I wouldn't use one at gigs unless it was fitted in an easily accessible place.

Surely the most important things are that the gear sounds and looks right for the band and won't break down when used.

Yes, done the same way as the Gus guitars and basses which have a 2mm carbon fibre skin over a wood core.

I haven't played one since they debuted the original models, but the 4-string had a very V-shaped neck profile. Things like that don't normally bother me, so it must have been quite prominent. The 5-string neck wasn't as bad as the extra width had the effect of smoothing out the V-ness. IIRC the carbon-fibre necks are made by Simon Farmer of Gus Guitars.

The problem with wood is that every piece is different, and therefore has no uniform sound-making properties. You can see this in the construction of good quality acoustic instruments where the sound-board and bracing of each individual instrument has to be "tuned". If a particular species of wood had a definite "sound" once you'd done this process once you could then apply exactly the same refinements to every top you produced, but as any decent luthier will tell you this is nonsense. Each top has to created and refined individually. If "ash" (BTW which of the 40+ species of ash do you mean, where was it grown, at what age was it harvested, and how was it stored/treated between being harvested and being turned into a musical instrument?) had a definitely different sound to alder, then you could buy a bass with the "right" woods for you without needing to try it first, and it would sound exactly as you imagined it would. However so many times I see the same people who believe that a certain species of wood has a certain sound (without taking all the other factors above into account) also spend an entire afternoon in the musical instrument shop going through all the supposedly identical basses to find "the one". You can't have it both ways. BTW I don't believe that the body has no affect on the sound of a solid electric instrument. My position is that it is secondary to just every other factor in the instrument's construction, and that it's effect is mostly unpredictable.

Don't confuse acoustic instruments with solid electric ones. The role that the wood plays in each is completely different.

The most obvious differences of one piece of wood will make over another are the grain pattern if it is visible and the weight of the instrument, neither of which can be automatically implied by the wood species (not withstanding the fact that "ash" covers over 40 individual tree species). From the photo in the OP the grain pattern doesn't look too shabby and the joins between the different pieces of wood making up the body are not significantly noticeable. Weight can only be deduced by actually weighing the instrument.

Why? What difference will it make?

As has already been said cheap and lightweight are relative terms. My current Helix Floor into an RCF745 is smaller, lighter and cost less new than I paid for the second hand EBS and Tech Soundsytems rig it replaced...

Wood of some sort. It looks quite nice and the joins aren't too obvious. What else do you want?