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Everything posted by BigRedX
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Neck is quite narrow (although not as narrow as Fender and Squier Bass VIs). If you want to have a look at all the different bass VI options have a read of this thread. I'm currently using a Burns Barracuda. It has a wider nut and better string spacing at that end of the neck, but is narrower than the Squier at the bridge. I'll probably end up getting something custom made that has the string spacing and pickup routing options that suit me.
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These days wherever there is room for me, Helix and computer mounted on a keyboard stand. Ideally not too far from the PA stage box for the computer DIs. I don't really mind which side of the stage I am in relation to the drummer, as in a previous band I did a lot of gigs supporting psychobilly bands with upright bass who would set up on the drummer's right hand side so they would be facing him when they were playing.
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Works fine so long as there are feet or other screws on the underside of the unit that can be repurposed to hold in place on the rack shelf. The device I was hoping to rack mount had no such screws and would have relied on the brackets to hold it in place. Having thought about it some more I can't see much point to the 1U version if the shelf makes the unit it is holding taller than 1U. It would only work with equipment that is several millimetres shorter than the 1U height, and I can't think of any musical equipment meeting that description that I would want to rack mount, that doesn't already have its own dedicated rack mounting kit.
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Which is why IMO it is best to eliminate the reliance of your sound on what your amp and cab(s) are doing.
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RIC don't need to work outside of the US to have real weight to their legal threats. Most web sites (including Basschat) rely on at least one US-based service to keep functioning. RIC just has to target these.
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Supergroups will only be any good if they include at least one excellent songwriter.
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If you are going to have a volume control, and especially if you are going to have a DI pass-through socket, it needs to be on the front of the cab, or somewhere that is more easily accessible than the back panel.
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Fearless Flyers and their rigid stand-mounted guitars
BigRedX replied to musicbassman's topic in General Discussion
Saw Renaissance in 1979 using stand-mounted acoustic guitars, so they could swap from electric to acoustic mid-song. -
Fantastic thanks! The Scarlet 18i20 appears to do what I need and is the cheapest of the three. Regarding point 5, I meant something that does not require a wall-wart PSU but simply uses an IEU cable between the mains sockets and the device. I'm not a fan of external PSUs for live use. In this case it would mean another item to secure inside the rack and a less reliable connection between the low voltage side of the PSU and the device being powered. For the same reason I'm not keen on connection adaptors unless they are a single cable with the required plugs at either end that goes between the computer and the device. IME every additional connection is a potential point of failure that will happen at the most inconvenient time at a gig and normally require disassembling the rack to fix.
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@Sharkfinger Thanks. I must have been too distracted by photos of what looked like the solution to my rack problem to read all the text.
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I have finally had to admit defeat in my efforts to securely mount my half-width Focusrite Saffire Pro24 interface in my live use rack and have decided that the only way to achieve what I want in a reliable way is to get an interface that is properly rack mountable - ideally with rack ears that are part of the casing. The Saffire Pro24 does everything I need in terms of connectivity, it is currently being used with a 13" MacBook Pro 2012 model (running El Capitan) which has 1x FW800, 1 x Thunderbolt (1?), 2 x USB 3. What I definitely need: 1. Must interface and work with my current MacBook Pro with El Capitan and Logic 9, and any other Mac made between 2012 and the current line up, and with all versions of Mac OS from El Capitan to Mojave, and Logic X. 2. Must be designed to fit into 1U of rack space and come with all the required fixings either as part of the unit's case, or as a rack mounting kit designed specifically for the device in question that will hold it securely and safely in the rack while being transported. IME rack trays and and other DIY bodges simply aren't reliable enough. 3. Must have at least six line-level balanced outputs. 4. Must have MIDI In and Out on DIN or XLR sockets. 5. Must have an internal PSU or be capable of being powered directly from its connection to the Mac. Any other features are a bonus but are not necessary. TBH as the interface I already have is fine apart from the fact it can't be securely rack-mounted, I don't really want to spent lots of money on a new interface that has lots of stuff I don't need on it just so I can properly rack mount it. maybe @Sibob would care to make some suggestions?
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I had been looking for something similar to properly secure my Focusrite Saffire Audio interface in the rack case I use for live work, and therefore ordered the 1U version. However because of the lip under the rack tray, when the interface is mounted the complete assembly is greater than 1U in height and therefore does not fit in the rack space I have available. It looks as though the 2U unit you have has the same construction. I have emailed the seller asking them if there is a version of the tray available without the lip so that any device mounted in it does not exceed the 1U height. In the mean time I thought I should point out this short-coming to anyone else who might be interested in buying one of these trays so they don't suffer the same disappointment I did.
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Fitting a new bridge with a different foot print
BigRedX replied to jassthebass's topic in Repairs and Technical
Personally I would wind the saddles at least three quarters of their travel forwards before placing the bridge to give the most useful adjustment. You will never need to shorten the string from the scale length to get your intonation right (if you do there is something wrong with the string and you should replace it), but you will need to lengthen it and the lower pitched the string the more you will need to increase the length. Therefore the more "backwards" travel you have on the saddles the better. -
What famous musicians death most shocked you
BigRedX replied to dmccombe7's topic in General Discussion
Ian Curtis of Joy Division. Only musician producing music that I still liked at the time of his passing. -
It's dead boring looking though isn't it? 😉
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Which X2 wireless system?
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IME really hard picks can sound great on their own, but mean that the bass guitar gets lost in the mix when I play with a guitarist who favours a clean tone.
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To the OP, does the bass go through the PA system when you gig, or is your rig the sole source of bass guitar for FoH?
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The reason you want your cabs off the ground is either so you can hear them better, or because you need to physically decouple them from a hollow resonant stage. On the whole the boundary effect is something that you want because if your cabs are placed correctly it helps project the sound out from the stage area. Bill Fitzmaurice has expanded on the subject several times you want to do a search.
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Is the FRFR version going to be a standard rectangular cab design or will it be configured to use a wedge as well like most commercial FRFRs? Also what do you consider to be inputs needed by bass players? Unbalanced Jack? Balanced XLR? Both?
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My understanding is that the boundary effect is far more important than the physical coupling of the cab to the floor, and you have to lift the cab several feet up to break this.
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I buy mine 100 at a time. That lasts me about 10 years.
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Just go to your local musical instrument shop and buy yourself a selection of picks of different thicknesses, sizes, and materials. If you are having trouble keeping hold of your pick look mostly at those with textured surfaces where you grip them. However you should also bear in mind that the different sizes, thicknesses and materials will all produce different sounds from your bass, so you may have to do some experimentation to find the right pick for you in terms of both tone and playing comfort. FWIW I use Herco Flex 75s. They are a reasonably heavy nylon pick with a textured surface where you grip them.
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Yes. To get an accurate reading you need to de-solder the pickup from the rest of the electrics, otherwise they will influence the reading.
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A and if you removed it, the pickup wouldn’t work.