BigRedX

I really can't see the point in commenting on a sale thread. If it's something I'm interested in buying, I will PM the OP, otherwise there is nothing worth saying.

To get back on topic... To the OP what is your bass rig for? Is it the sole means by which the bass guitar is heard by the audience, or do you have PA support?

Randomly changing the price for a higher one when relisting can be a legitimate technique especially if you have watchers who aren't bidding. Drop the price a couple of times and then put it back up. Eventually someone will take a punt.

It looks like it has never been serviced as it still has the Bulgin mains connector, which needs replacing ASAP.

Yes I do. The XLR cable goes to the single XLR input on the RCF.

I’d like to think I am Dan Weir of Espedaire Street. Not the front person, but the one responsible for (co-) writing all the songs, who just happens to be the bass player.

Definitely not a Kramer. It does share some similarities with the aluminium necked- Hondo Alien that I used to own - 2 screws on the neck-end string retainer (Kramers only had one). My Alien also had what looked like a Schaller 3D Bridge, but it was made of some weedy metal unlike the real thing. AFAIK All Kramers were made in New Jersey USA. The headless Duke was made simply by sawing off the headstock off their stock necks.

I haven't worn a watch for a long time (since the late 90s). In the days when I did wear one, if would always be removed before playing as it didn't go with the band image.

We've already done this. Please try and keep up.

The track length should be related to the circumference of the pot. The bigger the pot, the larger the circumference the longer the track.

Surely a mini pot will have a shorter track than a normal size pot?

16 for top E is pretty hardcore, but by comparison 60 for bottom E is almost normal. I use a 56 for drop D and probably wouldn’t struggle with something a little heavier.

Thank you. Now that's far more interesting than some seemingly random bass photo. It would be great to see the back of the body where the strings are anchored, because this bass may have a floating neck construction like Born To Rock (the joint at the headstock end suggests that it might) and in which case it wouldn't need a truss rod.

Luthier? Website?

It's our "German friend" Music Outlet Shop once again. Nothing new to see here, move along.

Mac OS has a very handy utility that will show which devices are on which USB bus. If there is something similar in Widows I suggest you use it to find which USB ports are attached to which USB bus, and use the port(s) which aren't being shared by other devices. Otherwise use SATA for your external hard drive.

@Happy Jack @Silvia Bluejay That might be why you can't get the ethernet connection to work. It looks as though you have to turn off the internal WiFi on the mixer to enable the ethernet connection. I have found several sources on the internet that appeared to imply this also. Time to get a good quality external router to allow simultaneous wired and wireless connections.

Thank you. If we were able to find a synth player with fantastic technical ability, who can also double up on guitar, percussion, backing vocals, is happy to sit out those songs that don't require anything extra, and willing do it all for occasional expense money, then we would have no need of the backing track.

@Stub Mandrel When it comes to string gauge and tension either your maths is flawed or you are not taking into account the construction of the string (solid core and several top windings on the thicker strings like low B). Looking at the D'Addario string tension charts a 34" 130 gauge low B will have a tension of 30.78lbs. Increasing the gauge to 135 will increase the tension to 33.32lbs which I make as a 8% increase. Also as I have said previously IME neck construction and the neck joint make the biggest contribution to getting a good low B. The longer you make the neck the more likely it is to flex and dissipate string energy leading to a bad sounding low B, hence the proliferation of cheap 35" scale 5-string basses which don't sound as good as a well made 34" scale 5-string bass. This is also why your maths doesn't work for short scale basses as the shorter neck is going to tend to be more rigid. Also it doesn't take string compliance into account, i.e. factors other than the tension which affect how stiff a string feels. Like string construction, as well as string break angles at the nut and bridge.

What is your laptop and what ports does it have other than USB?

Or you could just turn your amp up a little bit more.

As someone who plays both baritone guitar and bass VI I would say that the two are very different instruments and it mostly down to the voicing. For me the difference between a long scale baritone and a bass VI is more to do with the type and placement of the pickups then the scale length. A bass VI will have 3 single coil pickups, while a baritone has two P90 types or humbuckers. The middle pickup is important in getting the a decent bass sound, while a baritone guitar being played more like a conventional guitar but lower in pitch tends to benefit from the pickups in the conventional guitar positions.

If this is the drive that you are recording your audio files to, you will ideally want to connect it to your computer by some other method than USB. If you must use USB make sure it's on a bus without too many other peripherals. And remember that if your computer is a laptop many of those USB peripherals will be built in like the keyboard, trackpad, web cam, WIFI, Bluetooth etc...

But it doesn't need to since when set up as a wedge the speaker is pointing at my ears rather than at my knees like the 410.

I run a guitar amp SIM (Roland Jazz Chorus which in real life would be completely inappropriate at gig volumes for bass) for my Bass VI patches and no amp or cab SIM at all for the 5-string bass patches except where I am using a bass amp SIM for the overdrive sound instead of a distortion pedal.