BigRedX

Overwater Porn thread is [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=52576"]here[/url]. Looking forward to seeing your addition to it!

Again short scale (24 fret neck). Not very many details but it's probably an XKB-10 rather than a Gibson-style V shape (although those do exist). Be aware that there's only one pickup and design used ought to be at the neck rather than the bridge to the pole spacing is incorrect for the strings where it's being used.

As Jon said the Talbo Bass is mostly about the looks.

Average weight by my standards (mine is 4.4kg on the bathroom scales) but it's nearly all at the body end so at least it doesn't suffer from neck dive. I find the neck is very slim (but then again I mostly play 5-string basses). I haven't tried mine at serious volume so I couldn't comment on feedback, but it did suffer from a nasty rattle until I taped the "scratch plate" to the body using double sided tape. Sound wise it's bright and aggressive, and pretty versatile considering there's only one pickup although the design appears to be a separate coil for each string.

I like: The look, the sound (although not suitable for everything) the playability.

I don't like: A couple of design features that compromise functionality. The machine heads used makes it difficult to get a decent break angle for the A string. The bridge design is far too complicated and unfriendly for what it does. Has a tendency to rattle unless everything is tightly screwed down.

Overall nice but I wouldn't want it as my only bass.

Also the price of these in the UK is stupidly expensive. There's one in Denmark Street that's been there for years with a body with far too many casting marks on it (mine only has a few and they're all on the back). The Japanese seem to get these at a sensible price. Here we pay a premium which simply isn't worth it. (I imported mine from Japan via Ishibashi).

It's also short scale which I don't think anyone or the eBay listing mentioned. All the Kramer aluminium necks were the same length they change the scale length with the number of frets they fit. 24 frets like the XL24 is always 30" scale length. 20 frets is standard 34" scale.

I have a pair of older style Dr Bass cabs (before they started adding the mid control) a 210 and a 1260. Both fine sounding although not as good as my main EBS Proline rig. However I can carry both cabs at the same time whereas I can't even pick up the EBS 410 on my own!

My main concern is the 210 which only has jack connectors. I don't like jack connectors for high powered speaker systems it's simply not professional IMO. I've tried contacting Dr Bass about buying a replacement back panel with Speakons but they won't even acknowledge my emails...

If your belt is damaging the finish of your bass and it's not a requirement to hold your trousers up, take it off. No-one except you will notice since it's covered by your bass (which is why its marking the finish).

Welcome!

I see you've found your way here from Sound on Sound.

Hopefully you'll find Basschat as informative and entertaining.

While I had a Squier VMJ it fitted fine into a standard Hiscox bass case.

You'd have hoped that all that extra metal on the outside of the Superfly would act as a heatsink...

But obviously not.

I'll carry on using mine for rehearsals where transport space is limited, but when it dies it'll be in the bin and I'll be looking for something small that's been built properly.

Whatever you decide all of the band must throw themselves whole-heartedly into it. There's nothing worse than a band that feels uncomfortable about it's image, or it's obvious that one or more of you can't pull the look off. That means that all of you make the same effort and none of you look embarrassed about how you look on stage.

As a band member it might be possible the get away with not having to "dress up" if you have an extremely charismatic front person who can captivate and play the audience. In that case you could get away with wearing something plain and dark and stand at the back and simply play. However for this strategy to work you have to remain "in the background" all through the gig so no throwing any "rock god" shapes.

Sparatcus - sorry I was sure that when I'd seen it earlier the Markbass wedge went behind the cab. For me that would be the logical place to put it. Most of the stages I play on where I would be using a rig that small I'd need it tilted back at least 45° for the speaker to pointing anywhere near my ears.

Don't know if I'd fancy using a guitar combo tilt-back stand with something putting out bass frequencies. Their designed to be used with little 25W guitar amps and the fizzy sounds they produce.

Spartacus, you're missing the point.

1. If Clarky is as DIY inept as he claims then in real terms trying to make a stand will cost him far more in time and effort and therefore money, than spending £24 on something that already does the job.

2. It's a much better idea when tilting a speaker/combo back to support it from behind then to lift it at the front. Simply physics really.

A 5-string Uberhorn with an extended lower cutaway might just tempt me to consider a Shuker...

The string-tree is all about getting a decent break angle at the witness point of the string whether that be a zero fret or the nut. Is the headstock angled back?

I nearly bought a Marleaux Consat fretless at Bassday 2006. Wonderful playing and sounding bass and nearly everything I was looking for in a fretless. In the end I decided that it wasn't quite 100% what I wanted (luckily because when I got home I discovered that my CC had expired and I hadn't put the new one in my wallet -how embarrassing would that have been!) and I ended up ordering a Sei instead.

Requirements for me for a bass that I'm going to play with a pick:

1. Unhindered access to all 24 frets on the neck. That means actually having 24 frets and no heel or neck/body joint before the 24th fret.

2. A comfortable bridge for palm-muting. No Fender-style screws sticking into my hand once I've got the action suitably low.

3. No sharp edges on the body where my forearm is going to go. Important for me because my arm action is far more aggressive playing with a pick than when I play finger style.

4. Looks great when I'm up on stage giving it my "rock god" pose!

It appears to be fine now. I've been using it all week for practice and took it to rehearsal last night and it performed without any issues. However I know what you mean about brand confidence. Luckily this is just a backup for my main amp (Tech Soundsystems Black Cat - a serious piece of kit), but if I'd known about the reliability issues when I'd originally bought it even the friendly price of £199 wouldn't have enticed me. I'll continue to use it until it dies permanently, but I doubt that I'll ever buy another piece of Ashdown equipment again.

I wouldn't want to make a decision until I'd tried one of the new Epiphone Thunderbird Pros.

Due soon in the UK i believe?

Just the one PP3! ;-)

Most of the time I run it in passive.

Interestingly people only ever comment on the phallic aspect of my Gus basses when I turn up with the ones with the chromed horns. The matt black Gus bass is exactly the same shape and construction, but because the horns are anodised black instead of chrome no-one ever notices!

IMO the photoshopping is very poor. Spotted that this had been cut and pasted together straight away. There's all sorts of problems in the compositing with the lighting and shadows where the shots of the individual members have been put together, plus the cut-outs around the hair are awful . It's probably just as well you didn't pay any money for this.

As for the images as band shots, I don't really know. It doesn't appear that you have a "band image", just 3 random blokes and a reasonably attractive girl. It's all a bit ordinary really. Of course that may be what you were aiming for...

I would expect that a fair proportion of the cost of a Fodera goes towards the rent of their workshop in Brooklyn. I doubt Jon Shuker who's in Derbyshire pays anything like the same amount!

An individually hand-craft instrument has an unbelievable number of man hours that go into it's construction from selecting the woods all the way through to finishing and set up, not to mention the after-market customer support your going to get with an instrument like that. Luthiers need to earn a living too, I would suspect that few in this country earn more than £10/hour from their custom bass orders.

None of the guitar ones would be suitable for the majority of bass amps. I have the Marshall PowerBreak as part of my guitar rig. It's designed for 100W amps maximum and presents a 16 or 8 ohm load. It's basically a large brick with a fan on it. It weighs a ton and the noisy fan kicks in as soon as you put any serious power into it. As Spartacus says, it's designed for allowing you drive a (valve) guitar amp hard at the output stage (which generally sounds nice) without loosing your hearing or annoying the neighbours.

[url="http://www.Tecamp.com"]http://www.Tecamp.com[/url] is something entirely different. Looking at the overall standard I would hope that they would be very cheap indeed!

[quote name='spinynorman' post='535642' date='Jul 8 2009, 01:10 PM']I was looking at those yesterday. Didn't buy any cos I got a job lot of Dunlops off eBay, but maybe I will now. Delivery is a bit of a turn off - Stringsdirect want £1 postage for £2 worth of picks, so probably only viable if you're also buying something else.

[url="http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/accessories/picks/herco"]Strings Direct - Herco[/url]

Here as well

[url="http://www.stringbusters.com/frameset.asp?MAIN=http://www.stringbusters.com/ko-kat/PICKS/HERCO/"]Stringbusters - Herco[/url][/quote]

Thanks for the links. However I wanted to buy a box of 100 (something that is possible in the US where the retail price of a box is $40) not individually. Plus at the time I needed to buy neither of these had any in stock at all let alone 100.

That's a page left behind from the old site. If you reduce the URL down to simply [url="http://www.tech-soundsystems.com"]http://www.tech-soundsystems.com[/url] you'll be redirected to the new [url="http://www.tec-amp.de/"]http://www.tec-amp.de/[/url] site.