BassTractor

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402135620' post='2470290'] somehow it always ends up an ungodly (but functional) mess [/quote] Might be too low iron temperature, or too little transport of the energy, looking away from the possibility that the objects have moved in the process. Soldering tin (dunno in English) wants to be a ball and wants to create a smooth, shiny surface. Not shiny = not good. All AFAIK of course.

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402133784' post='2470269'] i dont know, ive not been down to the beach [/quote] I really think you must... [quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402133784' post='2470269'] if anybody knows anywhere local to me where they do short courses on how to solder would be much appreciated [/quote] No real need, I think. Just some rules and some experience built up by soldering stuff that does not matter. Rules should be everywhere on the web, or just ask here, but start with an iron that is hot enough, or you're gonna warm up components while you wait, and ruin them. Personally, as a beginner solderer, I like extra hands: weights with arms and crocodile thingies on them, so you can fixate components exactly where you want them, whilst also leading away some of the excess heat. No shame in using some form of emulsion that will transmit the heat from the iron to the object and from the object to the solder (in that order) whilst possibly cleaning the surface at the same time. Oh, and do use a soldering iron. Those 12" gas torches really are not ideal for electronics. Edit: just notice you're here in my living room. In that case: drink up your coffee and let's go to the soldering shed (yes, I got two sheds).

I've gone from 13 basses to 12. Does that count? I do wish to end up with just the two I love most, one fretted and one fretless, and am looking forward to it.

Just for the heck of it, and even though it was originally played on an electric sitarthingorsomething: http://youtu.be/Hu4n-9avOn0

Wouldn't you guys prefer one of those trolleys with 6 wheels that can do staircases? My dad had one. Stellar, almost.

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1402055331' post='2469564'] I could always reconnect it and shove a sock in it [/quote] Your socks are dry then? Same with your vest?

[quote name='cclowend' timestamp='1402057784' post='2469607'] I'm not sure what RTFM actually means or any of the abbreviations on t'interweb! [/quote] My Lord, for Your entertainment: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/9448-trying-to-understand-the-lingo-acronyms-explained/ explains a lot of them, but I suppose doesn't cover everything. RTFM stands for "Read The F*cking Manual!". Mind you, this was not meant as a dig at you at all. I just tried to express that I try to avoid the type of attitude this acronym represents, as people come from different places and have different reference frames, and IMHO should be respected for that. It's just that some people are evidently blatantly lazy, so one could be tempted.

OK, can't resist sharing this one: here in Norway, you have to pay our PRS if you own a shop with a radio that is switched on while customers are present, and the amount you have to pay is calculated from the shop's customer area in square meters. As I sell sea kayaks for a living, I could theoretically be found anywhere in Norway, so when filling out the form, I disregarded the water area, and faithfully answered: "385,178,000,000". Never heard from them again.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1402043409' post='2469408'] After all the information that has been posted on Basschat about speakers and cab design by some very knowledgable contributors, I find it astounding that [...] [/quote] Very simple though. Some are new here, some don't visit often, some read very little in the amps&cabs section, some rather ask than do a search. I, for instance, could suddenly be found to ask a "stupid" question about recording just because I'd easily forget that a recording section actually exists - me never reaching those low parts of BC. Nothing astounding about it, but I do think we could somewhat more often point to the answers that are already given, in a friendly way mind, rather than carefully explaining it all yet one more time. Personally, I try to avoid "RTFM" and "Do an effing search fer cryin' out loud!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!", even though it's easy to be charmed into writing exactly that.

Daddy Long Arms bass man with his upright guitar: http://youtu.be/1vKrL_YVqSg

Clarky, you ain't not not told us two IMHO very important bits yet: - Do you play on the same spot of the length of the strings with those different basses? I'd guess this is hardly likely, and it may influence how the timbre develops. I'd suppose different strings "like" different positions of the playing hand - How do you perceive the sound? Does this influence your valuation?

¡Hola! Welcome, Alex. Nice basses and ex-basses indeed (please show us all the wives and especially ex-wives as well). Enjoy BC! Bert

Early seventies: a Höfner violin bass, or should I say vile bass. Poor construction with poor bridge&saddle stuff, and poorly put together as a whole. Don't know if they all were like that, and assume they weren't. This one was not a musical instrument. Mid to late seventies: a Rick 4001. Maybe it was mostly the frustration of being disappointed, but I had to fight it as if it were a bull or wildebeest or crocodile or something. It just wasn't willing like a musical instrument should be. Reminded me of the difference between my own and my teacher's flute, where I'd need to fight mine, whilst hers started playing if you just thought of a tone. Worst thing is I can't understand the physics of it on a bass. Is the tone sucked out by nut/bridge/neck/body? Idunno, but I do know I'm still exhausted 40 years later. Around 1980 I played a cheap Fender copy (a Cort maybe?) and it just worked without resisting - nice even. Same with an ultra cheap rag a few years later. No sweat. I really don't get it. 2011: an Axl Marquee AP-800, my first own bass, had a twisted neck, and not in the modern, controlled fashion. I hope it was just a dudd, but it took away my confidence, and I went back with it, getting something comfortingly expensive instead.

I had this on a Rockinbetter, and it was caused by a loose wire that should have been connected to the housing of a pot (I'm assuming this means Earth) but had come off before I bought the thing new from a shop. Went back with it. Shop fixed it in five minutes, tested it, and it worked. Came home: same thing. So now I've desoldered the whole thing and will have the welders at my premises tomorrow. Expect my Rockinbetter to become perfect! Seriously though, I can imagine that different things can cause this. I've not investigated my own setup (bass, leads, amp, kettle lead, earthing) more thoroughly yet.

Here's a thread that explains how to add a picture: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/191620-how-to-add-a-picture-to-your-post/ Simply put, you cannot just paste a picture into the post, but need to follow a certain procedure, as described in that thread. If you still have trouble, then just send a PM to Discreet. He has too much time on his hands anyway.

[quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1401563368' post='2464849'] Hatebeak. Confirmed. [/quote] Confirmed, but not strictly true. The true originator of the sound had to growl before Waldo in order to teach him. Waldo just "parroted" the style, if you forgive the term. Good call though.

That's a grand idea! I'd think it's only a question of time before this is standard on some brands, especially since it seems these things are not critical and one needs just two different ratios.

Welcome, Gadgie! Story: great Picking up bass: passable Joining BC: laughable Enjoy the bass and the forum! Bert

I'll help you! Send it to my house and I'll teach it any song you need it to know. Congrats!

The RedSub PB35 seems virtually identical to its Beta Aivin BP-35 brother (probably the only difference is the red paint on the cone), and in case, IMHO of course, is an enormous amount of combo for the money. I've told it many times, but since you have not asked many times I'll repeat it once more: I went to the shop simply to buy a Roland 30W Cube. Shopkeeper however said he had something different I should hear as well... To my ears it was clearly better than the Cube. Much more lively, and much more responsive to changes in playing style. And that was when I still thought they were the same price. Then it turned out it was a lot cheaper in addition. Goes without saying I took it home. Mind you: the pots are not of super quality, and I've already had to clean them after less than a year of use. It has worked perfectly since, now for 2.5 years. A small price to pay, I think, but of course YMMV. Don't know the other combo you mention.

Bienvenue, Henry! If the wife can't be convinced, at least she can be convicted (and decapitated). ([b]Some[/b]body had to!) Enjoy BC! Bert

Welcome, Ian! Enjoy the talk! Bert

[quote name='worldshed' timestamp='1401378497' post='2463022'] So Im thinking the 12.2 because it will put out 600w to my 4ohm cab (which should be ok for now as long as I don't push it). The thing is, I cant see many situations where I will need 1200w so perhaps the 9.2 is better... [b]problem is it will put 900w into my 400w cab[/b] and I cant afford to get a new cab right now. further down the line yes... but I have gigs Ultimately, I don't want to be carrying around 2 cabs so.... if I wanted up 900w output I could get there with one cab (so most situations I will be fine with 9.2 head and 1 cab), whereas if I wanted anything over 600w with the 12.2 I will need 2 cabs. I play everything from pubs to 1500+ cap venues and festivals. [/quote] Sorry, but I don't understand what you're expressing here. From the look of it, it seems to me you're slighly confused, but it may also be that your thinking is too advanced for me. However, the highlighted part of the quote seems to indicate there is a misunderstanding here. The amp will not put 900W into your cab. Watt is not Voltage. The volume knob decides how many Watt the amp puts into the cab. If you have managed with the 400W cab upto now, then you will continue to manage also with a different amp. You just don't turn the volume knob totally to max. I thought it better to write this than to not write it, but as I expressed, I'm confused as to what you are writing.

Until someone with more specific knowledge chimes in, here's my personal AFAIK: First, you need to identify whether the preamp's signal can be mixed with the FX signal or not, on this specific amp. I think most bass amps disconnect the preamp from the power stage when the FX loop is used, but there are amps that will proudly do it. There's a word for it that I can't recollect right now, but the function has been written about on BC. If it [b]can[/b], you are taking risks by mixing in a hot synth. The synth signal would enter the preamp from the wrong side, and might blow it up. If it [b]can not[/b], then you can use an external mixer that mixes the preamp out signal with the synth, before feeding the mixed signal to the Return. Mind you, the mixer must cater for these assumedly different types of signal, as I sense there are voltage and especially impedance mismatches. But these things can be found out about, and maybe the pre out and the synth are not that different after all. The mixer does not have to be expensive or complicated, so you might be able to find a simple and cheap one. Personally, I use an 80s multitrack recorder with built-in mixer for these things. That mixer will take both microphones and line level signals and probably other signals as well.