jrixn1

Centre negative and tip negative are the same thing. The Mini Iso-Brick would work - the Aftershock can connect to one of the 300mA outputs and the Zoom can go in the 800mA one (set to 9V).

No - the MXR DC Brick is not isolated. If sticking with MXR, you'll want their Iso-Brick or Mini Iso-Brick. Other brands Truetone or Cioks are also very good and dependable. To get a more specific recommendation - what are the requirements (voltage and current) of all your pedals (including future purchases), and any other considerations e.g. form factor to fit on/under a pedalboard?

Do you mean that when playing along to the original recordings at home, playing the tabs as written, you have to downtune your bass to EbAbDbGb to make it sound correct? In that case... you probably don't want to downtune. Keep it in EADG. All the other orchestra instruments will also be sounding up one semitone from the recording - so it will sound wrong practising with YouTube but correct when you are with the orchestra.

Most of these will fit: https://barefacedaudio.com/collections/10cr-bass-cabs https://barefacedaudio.com/collections/12xn-bass-cabs https://www.lfsys.co.uk/bassguitarproducts What are your other criteria (cost, loudness, weight)?

How about a send/return/power patch box on the primary board e.g. https://goodwoodaudio.com/products/audition?variant=32441404751919 or https://brightonion.co.uk/products/dyo-3-gang-patchbox-side-sockets Connect the secondary board in the loop on the larger gigs.

Checking my emails - Parcelforce was £13.30 uninsured, and Overland Express was £45 with £750 insurance. I've used Secursus in the past, but not sure I'd use them now. Has anyone made a successful claim? See https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/270188/secursus-insurance-not-valid , linked from https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/498649-secursus-insurance-not-actually-covered-without-certificate-of-sale-physical-signatures/ "They finally confirmed that for their insurance for individuals to be valid they need to give prior approval in writing, they also require evidence of payment for the item, and they need a certificate of sale"

I'm very happy to start a feedback thread for Seadunk. I sold him a bass, he was very patient with me while I sorted some stuff out at my end, and we had great, friendly communication throughout. Top basschatter!

+1 on this. I'd previously tried a Digitech The Drop and a EHX Pitch Fork but wasn't happy gigging with them. However the Simple Pitch in the HX One worked for me on gigs. You can set up multiple presets for different amounts of detuning.

I'm not sure of the impedance of my K&K Bass Max pickup since the only thing the manual says is "high ohmic". It is a piezo though. Do I get a decent bass tone? Well, I'm doing my best... 😬 My larger rig is an EBS Stanley Clarke preamp and a QSC CP12 or RCF 745A - nevertheless I choose to use the Micromark when possible - so I think that's your answer.

I have other, larger, more complicated gear for loud functions or when I'm doubling - but for jazz in pubs I really recommend a Markbass Micromark 801. I plug my bass straight in - no preamp, EQ, HPF, etc. https://www.markbass.it/product/micromark-801/

I bought some items from Rich - thanks for a pleasant transaction and quick posting!

Does this help, from https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/402727-class-d-power-amps/?do=findComment&comment=4005551 ?

Another option is to leave out one control; e.g. the G&L SB-2 is a production PJ with no tone knob. Or you can have a blend and tone but no volume, which is what I have in my PJ bitsa. You could also have a push-pull knob - so setup like a P bass but then pulling the tone knob adds in the J pickup on full volume. It's a good chance to think about how you use the bass in real life and get something to suit. BTW if you don't want to do your own electronics, you can buy standard or custom looms from basschatter KiOgon.