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Everything posted by jrixn1
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Bass does sound an octave lower than written - but so does guitar. Strictly speaking both instruments should be written with octave clefs, although most often they aren't.
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There are lots of wiring diagrams here: http://www.ak-line.com/medium/Bassschaltungen.pdf Is it a Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass with stacked pots?
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I bought a bass from Pete. It was packed well, and he sent it out very quickly. Thanks!
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Some info in this thread: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/497820-ir-for-eub-3sigma-in-a-live-setting/
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Please recommend a DB for Bluegrass and the like
jrixn1 replied to fretmeister's topic in EUB and Double Bass
Day trip to https://www.thedoublebassroom.com/ -
Peterson StroboStomp HD tuner Manufacturer: https://www.petersontuners.com/products/strobostomphd/ A great tuner - quick and accurate, different colour display options, and Peterson's (optional) "sweetened" tunings. I have both this larger HD and its smaller sibling the Mini, but I'm downsizing my pedalboard so keeping just the Mini. In the photos, that's a thread of fluff to the left of the footswitch, not a scratch. The rubber on the underside has been removed to assist attaching it to a pedalboard, and afraid I don't have the original box. £95 posted
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Squier Vintage Modified fretless jazz neck - spares or repair I picked this neck up recently to make a bitsa, but it became apparent that: The truss rod feels fine and turns in both directions - but doesn't seem to have an affect on the relief. The relief with Fender Nickel Plated Steel .045-.150 strings is 0.25mm. The fingerboard has some unevenness or playing wear, to the extent that a few notes sometimes choke or buzz slightly. It's not awful, but it would be better if it got planed. Higher action helps though - I found it playable enough with action at the 12th fret position of E string 2.5mm, G string 2.25mm. But I think you wouldn't be able to get super low action. Number of fret positions: 20 Radius: 9.5” Material: Ebonol Nut width: 1.5” (38.1mm) Scale length: 34” £50 posted within UK. Now £30 posted.
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One thing to consider about getting two 4-ohm cabs is that while they will work fine with your current Yamaha amp head, if you want to change heads in the future you might find that your choice is restricted, since many (most?) heads don't go down to 2 ohms. Another is that while the combination of a 1x15 and a 2x10 is not necessarily wrong, and some people are getting good results - it's also not generally the modern modular approach, which is two identical cabs. While impedance and speaker diameters are quite important, there are other factors. Describing your situation might get useful specific cab recommendations (e.g. living room vs pubs vs functions; jazz duo vs heavy metal nonet; any budget or weight considerations).
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Thanks Michael for selling me a pedal and posting it so quickly - great transaction!
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Low B is B0 (30.9Hz). https://www.mooeraudio.com/product/Baby-Tuner--96.html says "Detection range: 12Hz ~ 4186Hz" However https://www.korg.com/uk/products/tuners/tm_60/specifications.php says "C1 (32.70 Hz)–C8 (4186.01 Hz)". So it's not something you can fix; unfortunately it's just not designed to be used with a 5-string bass.
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Possibly out of range of your tuner. Why is there a range? Not sure, but frequencies are logarithmic so I guess it's easier for tuner algorithms to distinguish between higher notes than lower ones.
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You can tune to the harmonic when setting intonation.
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I'd get a right-angle jack in case you need to back the cab up to a wall, or just have less chance of something snagging the cable. https://custom-lynx.co.uk/product/nl2fxx-w-s-sc15-np2rx/
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It doesn't work because the LS-2 level controls are post-loop; i.e. after the return, not before the send. Why do you want to tweak the level going to the desk? I think the sound person wouldn't like it if you did that. The usual place to make that adjustment is the channel gain on the desk. Typically the line to the desk would be balanced i.e. using a DI box.
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A TRS jack carries both the send and receive signals. You need to split it out with a 'Y' aka 'splitter' cable; e.g. https://custom-lynx.co.uk/product/pc24-_-rean/ Plug the TRS jack into the amp's effects socket. Plug the send jack (probably the red one) into your external effects send socket, and the return jack into the effects return socket.
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Centre negative and tip negative are the same thing. The Mini Iso-Brick would work - the Aftershock can connect to one of the 300mA outputs and the Zoom can go in the 800mA one (set to 9V).
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No - the MXR DC Brick is not isolated. If sticking with MXR, you'll want their Iso-Brick or Mini Iso-Brick. Other brands Truetone or Cioks are also very good and dependable. To get a more specific recommendation - what are the requirements (voltage and current) of all your pedals (including future purchases), and any other considerations e.g. form factor to fit on/under a pedalboard?
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Do you mean that when playing along to the original recordings at home, playing the tabs as written, you have to downtune your bass to EbAbDbGb to make it sound correct? In that case... you probably don't want to downtune. Keep it in EADG. All the other orchestra instruments will also be sounding up one semitone from the recording - so it will sound wrong practising with YouTube but correct when you are with the orchestra.
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Most of these will fit: https://barefacedaudio.com/collections/10cr-bass-cabs https://barefacedaudio.com/collections/12xn-bass-cabs https://www.lfsys.co.uk/bassguitarproducts What are your other criteria (cost, loudness, weight)?