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jrixn1

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Everything posted by jrixn1

  1. jrixn1
    For sale - no trades, thanks. Beautiful P bass body from Guitarbuild: £180: body only £250: fully loaded (Matt Freeman Squier pickups; KiOgon solderless loom; pickguard; aged bridge, knobs, and screws; tug bar; strap buttons; Fender neck plate; and neck screws) - or message me if you want some of the parts but not all. Collect from Bristol BS3, or +£10 for UK postage. I bought this used, and the original description said: "Hand finished in nitro it has been bleached with Oxalic acid then aniline dyed yellow under the sealer coat as per older 50’s/60’s factory process to give a strong yellow centre. Sunburst then applied over sealer coat with three coats of clear gloss and buffed" There is some (lovely) wear - see photos. The finish will become even more beautiful as it continues to age naturally. Bad bits: The neck pocket has a small slice missing off the G-side corner. This is cosmetic and doesn't affect stability of the neck mount. If the bridge is tightened down a normal amount, the front (i.e. neck side) raises off the body a bit. So I just didn't over tighten it, and the string tension holds it down fine with no problems. The loaded body weighs 2742g on my kitchen scales, so you're looking at a finished bass of about 4kg (depending on the neck and tuners). Any questions, please reply on the thread or send me a private message.
  2. jrixn1
    Sounds like you're happy with your Helix tone - and that goes 100% hand in hand with neutral amplification. You could get separates, but really you can't beat powered speakers for this application: E.g. RCF 732-A is £700 and 18kg. (This is what I used to have.) FBT ProMaxx 112a is £750 and 15kg. (This is what I have now.) Or similar from QSC (K12.2) and Yamaha (DXR12). As a comparison, if you were to buy separates: just looking at cabs, a Big Baby 3 is £1150 or a LFSys Monaco is £750. I.e. already costs more even without buying a power amp yet. The above RCF etc powered speakers all have DSP, one advantage of which is that it allows you to get the most out of the speaker physically if you did need to push it, but while also preventing it from damage. Having said that, I play in a 10-piece function band, and a 12" powered speaker is more than enough - I've never been close to running out of volume. Form factor is great as has tilt (wedge) ability built in. Lots of different venues, some of which with poor stage acoustics - but I never have a problem hearing myself, due to the good dispersion and clarity of the powered speaker. This was not always the case with my previous traditional bass cabs.
  3. jrixn1
    Yes, I've popped in there as well - it was on Brune St. No longer there.
  4. jrixn1
    https://www.facebook.com/joliandthesouls/posts/pfbid02KaGW6E6tqPnkyiWs2v7tKgFrvA8WEta8esJjrNSGUbacNoehjaTr8gLMk64A2Yrkl
  5. jrixn1
    I don't think your suggestion will work, with the SGT being plugged back into itself. You are connecting the through output back to the SGT input, via the ABY - which is a feedback loop. The Talkbass suggestion is different: connect the bass to the SGT input; the through output and main output to the ABY pedal; and then routing that into an amp etc.
  6. jrixn1
    Power amps are typically rack gear. Crown will be decent e.g. https://www.thomann.de/gb/crown_xli_1500.htm , but it's 12.7kg and a 2U rack format, i.e. heavy and large. It's uncommon for bassists to use rack gear for decades now because there is basically no point in it. There are some non-rack power amps which are smaller and lighter e.g. previously mentioned Baby Sumo, or the GR Pure Amp - but unless you have an actual, specific reason to use a power amp, I'd stick with the Markbass as it's going to be more straightforward. Plug the preamp into the instrument input. Previous poster suggested using the effects loop - usually good advice, but Markbass is atypical in that its effects loop comes before the eq section. Or if you are looking at power amps because the Markbass's response is not flat enough, there are other, better options. E.g. powered speakers. BTW "preamp" and "DI" are different things but I think you are using them interchangeably. A preamp is what you are after - it gives tone shaping: eq and possibly overdrive etc. Whereas a DI box generally aspires to not change your tone but just convert the instrument signal so it can go straight into a mixing desk e.g. if recording, or going into a venue PA system. Some preamps do come with DI functionality built in - but not all do.
  7. jrixn1
    You can buy boxes online and you don't even have to leave the house. E.g. https://www.sellusyourguitar.co.uk/product-page/guitar-packaging-electric-bass-guitars
  8. jrixn1
    Nice-playing neck from a Fender Modern Player jazz bass. Nut: Synthetic Bone Radius: 9.5″ (241 mm) Fretboard: Rosewood Fret Size: Jumbo Neck Material: Maple Neck Shape: “C” Shape Nut Width: 1.5″ (38.1 mm) In good condition, with just a couple of quite light scratches on the fretboard. Frets visually have a small amount of wear, which has not caused any playing issues. Truss rod working fine. It uses a wheel at the heel end, and I'll include an adjustment rod. The tuner holes are very slightly smaller than standard - afraid I don't have the right tool to measure the exact diameter. I have some official Fender bushings to hand, and they don't quite fit. I had Hipshot Ultralites in there with no problem. I don't own any calipers, but the neck fit well on the bodies I've had with it: the original Fender jazz body it came on, a few Squier P bodies, and a third-party body specced to Fender dimensions. Weighs 928g on my kitchen scales. £150 collected from Bristol, or can post for £10.
  9. jrixn1
    Is it a 'Bryce'? https://shop8h.top/ProductDetail.aspx?iid=30165700&pr=76.88
  10. jrixn1
    I moved from an original 15" Barefaced Compact to a Barefaced Big Baby 2 and it was a big increase in clarity. I wouldn't get a BB3 today though, at £1150 (unless you just couldn't do without its unbeatable low weight) - I'd get a good 12" powered speaker, like an RCF 732-A or Yamaha DXR12 for £700 or so. Also depends how attached you are to your RB. If so, the other cab which I've not tried but sounds interesting (if I was using separates) is the Monaco https://www.lfsys.co.uk/bassguitarproducts It's marketed for bass guitar but I don't see why. Apparently there's a demo one making its way around the UK (contact @stevie ).
  11. jrixn1
    Although having just seen the price of a Pedal Power 2 Plus, I'd get a Truetone CS6.
  12. jrixn1
    I have neither device, so I'm just theorizing here. First, headphone amp usage increases the current draw. So if you aren't planning on using the headphone amp, you won't be at the max 300mA. Second point - what are commonly called "current doublers" don't double the current per se... they merely combine the two outputs. https://voodoolab.com/product/current-doubler-adapter/ confirms it: "the Current Doubler Adapter combines the current of two outputs" So if 250mA wasn't enough, you can use 250mA output + 100mA output = 350mA for the Zoom B2, and still have the remaining 250mA output free for your other digital pedal.
  13. jrixn1
    For any sort of doubling (or tripling), hard to beat the Boss LS-2 with its level matching and multiple routing options in a compact form. Or in particular for upright, consider one of the EBS pedals - the Stanley Clarke Acoustic or the MicroBass 3. They do more than you've asked for, but I found them very good and I was able to replace some of my other existing gear and streamline my doubling setup.
  14. jrixn1
    G & D : Gut-a-Like Hepcat, just over two years old. A & E: whatever steels comes on a Christopher bass - their own-brand? About 10 years old and nicely worn in. Good mixed set which works really well for old-school swing, etc. I don't bow so can't comment on that aspect. The Gut-a-Like are not an exact match tension-wise for the steels, but I adapted ok. Free to a good home!
  15. jrixn1
    Where are the side dots? It's not clear from the reviews on bax-shop website, with one person saying: "The only problem are the side-dots. They are on the usual spot for a fretted bass, but on a fretless bass without lines, the side-dots should be on the spot of the fret." but another: "There's nothing wrong with the "side-dots", they are right where they should be."
  16. jrixn1
    Check which way your particular switch is wired. E.g. looks like you'd need to flip the diagram if using a Warman mini toggle (middle position). https://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/product/dpdt-3-position-on-on-on-mini-toggle-guitar-switch/
  17. jrixn1
    This post has diagrams for both on-off-on and on-on-on. https://www.talkbass.com/threads/single-series-single-on-standard-switch.1224168/
  18. jrixn1
    I know sometimes there's no alternative - but be careful loading up cars with gear which will fly forward and crush you if you have an accident. I now always try to keep my back seats up if possible, ideally with everything in the boot; or if it really won't fit, the lightest items on the back seat. The upright bass goes on the reclined passenger seat with a seat belt on.
  19. jrixn1
    If you bought it from a shop on the internet, you have 14 days from when you received it to decide to return it.
  20. jrixn1

    Always on tuner

    jrixn1 replied to Burns-bass's topic in Effects

    Ah, well in that case see this post - https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/443383-ebs-stanley-clarke-acoustic-preamp/?do=findComment&comment=4909149 The tuner out can (undocumentedly) be on permanently, so you could use any tuner of your choice.
  21. jrixn1

    Always on tuner

    jrixn1 replied to Burns-bass's topic in Effects

    Boss TU-2 and TU-3 have a bypass output which is never muted.
  22. jrixn1
    "Months" is plural, so it's "between two and four months' average salary".
  23. jrixn1
  24. jrixn1
    Why not use just the 912As for now, and in particular have the singer use them on her solo gigs and see how she gets on? Perhaps after a few real world experiences everyone will have a better idea of what they need. What is the hurry to rush out and buy more gear? Just a few weeks ago you said of the 912As, "definitely the best PA set up I've had with any of the bands I've been in" - but a few internet posts later and they've been relegated to being the spares. I'm not saying 732As aren't good (I've had one - they're great), but whatever you get, there will always be something better - you have to stop at some point!
  25. jrixn1
    Tell me about it - I used to be a drummer, and our bassist never brought a bass amp so we always had to bring one for him! Can't believe I used to do that... Sounds like 710A is the way to go for you. They will be better than the 310A, which you used to own and know were ok for smaller gigs. So you know the 710As will also be fine for smaller gigs. If you think they'll need a boost, bring a 912A as well (rather than a CMD). There is also redundancy here, as the 912A will substitute better than a CMD if a 710A broke. For the larger gigs, bring both 912As. 👍
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