jrixn1

The marketplace does has a section for this: https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/36-recycling/ The most straightforward way to contact a mod to request the thread is moved is by reporting your own post: click the three dots at the top right of your original post and there should be a 'Report' option.

Better, but still slightly wrong - "If you're not totally satisfied with your purchase, we'll refund the entire purchase price of the item (less transportation both ways)." They are meant to refund the outbound postage. "There maybe a 10% re-stocking fee if goods are not returned in their original condition or packaging." You don't have to return the original packaging. If the goods are not in their original condition, they should be charging you for the actual damage that you've caused (not just "10%"). Although I wonder if you completely destroyed the bass, they'd hold themselves to their own T&C and only charge you 10%...?

I can't answer your question quantitatively, but can share my experience. I recently had adjusters installed (https://www.mjbl.co.uk/double-bass-bridge-adjusters-for-sale) for a similar reason - wanted to try a lower string height. I didn't go down much at all, but I was surprised how noticeably it negatively affected the tone and volume. The tone had less attack, and I think the lower volume caused some amplification feedback issues as I had to add correspondingly more gain to be the same volume as previously. It's the only time I've had any feedback issues in many years. However I'm always playing in lots of different venues so I could not say for sure that the string height was the problem. Anyway I soon raised the adjusters back up to the original height. If I wanted to pursue this, I think I'd take it to a luthier as I'm not versed in upright setup and I wonder if there are other factors which can be adjusted.

Well... it's "1" better 😂 Sire themselves say that it's basically a renaming: "The Swamp Ash variant of the V7 will now be called V8." https://sire-usa.com/pages/v8

Ah great you play upright. I had a Headway (EDB-1) in the past but I found it a bit clunky, and it felt more suited for the studio than to put on a pedalboard. Even more reason to definitely consider the Stanley Clarke then!

And if you like the second channel of MicroBass 3 but not bothered about overdrive, there is the EBS Stanley Clarke. It doesn't have a tuner though. They market it as an 'Acoustic Preamp' due to the features like 10 Mohms input impedance, mic input, and notch filter, but it's good on electric too. It's my current preamp and I use my P bass through it.

I had a MicroBass 3 for a while and it's also really good. It's definitely handy that everything (tuner, DI, headphone amp) is contained in one unit. If you use a separate power supply, check it will be ok with the MicroBass 3's quite high current requirement of 750mA.

Oops - I meant https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/474410-mxr-m81-bass-preamp and will fix my original link.

You say you want something small and you don't need overdrive but then you say you are looking at the SCR-DI, which is a large pedal (bigger than the MicroBass II) and kind of the point of it is that is has overdrive. If you're interested in Ampeg, they do another smaller preamp pedal 'Classic Analog' with their tonestack but without the 'Scrambler' (overdrive) section. For your setup, you'd use it in conjunction with a separate DI box. Or if you were happy with the MicroBass II, how about MXR M81, which is a good quality, transparent EQ preamp with DI. I had one for a while and thought it was really good. I saw that there's one for sale in the marketplace (no relation to seller).

It has a variable HPF on each channel, if you move the switch from Notch to HP.

Yes absolutely. I've been doing exactly that for a while: upright and bass guitar > EBS Stanley Clarke > powered speaker. I've used Yamaha, QSC, RCF, and FBT powered speakers. Best setup ever.

What make/model is your very loud backline? If it's loud enough to fill the venue but you can't hear it well yourself, the first advice is usually to tilt or raise it. The potential problem with your proposal to run backline and two monitors all at the same time in a small venue is that you'll have bass coming from three sources bouncing around all over the place and it will sound muddy/indistinct.

Thanks. I currently play a mixed set of Spirocore and Gut-a-Like (which sound good but aren't a perfect match tension-wise) but they might need replacing at some point, so I will look into the Rotosounds as they sound interesting. The Band gave inconsistent results with my bass - sometimes even during when it was in use...! And at its best, it seemed to give no improvement in tone compared to my Bass Max. But great to hear that it's working out for you. There are lots of different pickup systems and strings, and although I'm pretty happy with what I've ended up with, still I'd love to experiment more (need more time and money though).

K&K Bass Max - had mine for years/decades. It sounds ok on its own, but I find it improves once in the band mix. Really easy to work with live - I never have a bad sound or any issues. Headway Band - just send it back... I found it useless. Mounted mic - I haven't used that particular one, but I've owned similar, and currently the band put a DPA on me in theatres but don't bother at weddings (too loud). I found best results is to send to the mixing desk but don't route it through your stage amp/monitor - unless you are all quiet enough that you can do so without feedback, in which case great. What are those strings - lower steel, upper synthetic?

Sounds like I'm in a minority - but I contacted Bass Bros with all the details and photos etc of a bass I was hoping to sell via them, and never heard back. The bass was since sold elsewhere.

Your right to return is legally protected. Even if the retailer writes otherwise on their website or in their terms & conditions, it doesn't matter - they can't override your statutory rights. (This is in the UK - I don't know the law in Latvia.)

In addition to what Dad just said: The retailer must refund the original outbound postage (or their minimum normal postage cost, if you chose a higher-priced option). Some shops try to subtract this postage amount from the refund, but push back and they will refund it (if you need to quote some legislation to them, it's the Consumer Rights Act 2015). Similarly, they can't charge a "restocking fee". Basically, they should be refunding you 100% of what you paid. However, if you did damage the item, they can charge for that.

The cost of insurance is always going to be more than the expected value of loss/damage - the difference is how insurers make money. The shops could be getting a special deal like you say, but I also wonder (and this is just a guess) if they just send them uninsured because of the volume that they're trading. If they are turning over £1,000,000 of basses, it's going to be cheaper to write off £5,000 of lost basses versus paying £10,000 of insurance. It's different if you're an individual and only buying a couple of basses per year - i.e. if you are the unlucky 1 in 100 person whose bass goes missing and can't afford to take a £700 hit because you needed that money this month to fix your broken car etc.

A Gear4music foam case is £45 - you can always sell it on afterwards. Although they're actually pretty good - I bought one initially for exactly this postal insurance reason, but ended up keeping it for many years. (Or buy a few and set up a side hustle bass case rental service for other people in your situation...) BTW get the seller to take photos of the bass as they pack it - see these T&C, "We will request these photos if your package is lost or damaged":

There was a recent thread about this with some good suggestions: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/472167-courier-with-insurance-dec-2022-any-suggestions-please/ The cost depends on the value of the bass. I recently sent a bass insured for £1000 which cost £49 with Overland Express (carrier was Parcelforce). Fortunately I didn't need to make a claim so can't give any feedback on that aspect.

How about low profile Dual Lock. There are a few Dual Lock products - the one I have is called "SJ4575".

Bit confusing at first, as this reads as if you ( @TheGreek ) are giving a masterclass. But actually I think your whole post was copied and pasted from somewhere?

Ah yes, good point - I'd over-assumed that everything was already running through the PA. (If everything had been, and if you had a digital mixer, you could likely record each track individually - i.e. independently of whatever you're doing with the FOH or monitors - and mix it down later)