jrixn1

(I know this is the FRFR thread... but) what about one of these: https://reverb.com/item/39339547-ashdown-rm112-t

Dunno if you'll save any weight - a Big Baby 2 is 12-13kg, whereas an RCF 732A is 17.8kg. Barefaced's got that pretty much wrapped up. You'll save money though: the PA companies have economies of scale on their side. Afraid I don't have any videos or recordings.

My RCF 732A replaced a Big Baby 2.

If you ever use one of those reel power extensions, bear in mind that they have different ratings for wound and unwound. When wound, I think it drops considerably (this one drops from 2400W to 720W, so that's just 3A). We didn't unwind fully once, and it started smoking during the set!

I have been using and really liking the EBS preamps, so that's my recommendation; but you can also consider the TC Electronic Spectradrive, if you can find one (are they discontinued?), or Palmer Pocket Bass (no compression though). https://www.tcelectronic.com/product.html?modelCode=P0D9D https://www.palmer-germany.com/en/products/guitar-effects/5140/pocket-amp-bass

It depends exactly which cabs you're eyeing up; but from what I think you have in mind, it's going to be a trade-off between having the practice rig as absolutely tiny as possible vs how much louder than that you need to be for gigs. The 350W head and a 4ohm 1x10 will make for the physically tiniest/lightest possible rig for practice; but adding an 8ohm 1x10 will augment it only slightly for gigs. (As Merton says, it will be getting only 1/3 of the power.) Whereas the 800W head and (say) a single 4ohm 2x10 will be noticeably louder for gigs, but not be so tiny for practice. I don't think either is more correct than the other; depends on your situation and priorities.

I wonder if 350W into two cabs isn't the best match, as the 8ohm cab is only going to be ticking over (117W). The 800W head and a single 4ohm cab might end up being a more versatile combination. Or to put it another way (supposing your cabs are a 1x12 and a 2x12), 350W into 3x12" is going to be more to carry, more expensive, and less loud than 800W into 2x12".

True, some might find a way round it. But you're also going to have a lot more people overall taking a test who mightn't have otherwise - which is a good thing.

All my gigs are with the same one band, mainly functions/weddings + a few clubs/theatres. I haven't asked my bandmates, but I assume they are vaccinated. Bandleader has asked us to do a lateral flow test the day before each gig and let him know if positive, but we're not chased up on it (i.e. he doesn't ask whether we've done it or not). At gigs, we minimize interaction with anyone not in the band. Singers have their own assigned mics; if anyone else uses one of our spare mics (e.g. for a wedding speech), it is labelled so it can be cleaned/isolated. Masks recommended when in smaller band rooms and shared vehicles. Take breaks outside where possible.

It's asking a lot of the £360 Yamaha if your benchmark is a Fearless 112. If you up the budget to a comparable £700-£800 (QSC K12.2, RCF 732A, RCF HD32) then it's a fairer fight!

What are your current PA speakers, and is your bass going through FOH? If so, it means you need only stage monitoring and for that you might be able to use equipment which is less good at reproducing low frequencies. A high-pass filter can make its job easier too (perhaps one is available in DSP). Also, can you use in-ears instead? They are much lighter than any speaker cabinet!

Unlikely. In-ears are acoustically isolated, so generally you would have the volume a lot lower than the equivalent backline. You could crank it though, I suppose; but you'd be doing it wrong.

Maruszczyk truss rods are reverse: anti-clockwise to tighten. The truss rod is really to set the relief, not the action. To check the relief, press the E string down at the 1st and 16th frets; then while doing that, the string height at the 8th fret should be hardly above the fret - but not so low to be touching it. You can (or should) use a feeler gauge to be more accurate. Then only when the relief is correct, set the action at the saddles (as Chiliwailer says).

My Fender 9050 flats have those colours, so I guess some sort of Fender string.

What is "almost" ampless? 🤔 How are you monitoring yourself? One feature I like a lot on my EBS Stanley Clarke (and on my previous EBS MicroBass 3) is that its volume control affects the bass volume in my in-ears/active speaker, but not the DI. So I can easily adjust for "more me" (or "less me") without affecting the FOH mix.

This is really the best advice as you're (Jonrh98) spending so much money.

Isn't this your answer? Get a fretted Sire P7 and have the preamp removed.

If it sounds good, then you're doing it right. I use a three-band EQ pedal into an active PA speaker, and that's it; never been happier.

This diagram (in particular the lower third) shows what the frequencies mean: https://www.audio-issues.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/EQChart.jpg They define 'Bass' as between 63Hz and 250Hz, and within the 'Bass' region they use the descriptors 'Bottom', 'Boom', 'Punch', and 'Warmth'. 40Hz is probably too low to be of much musical use, although it can cut stage rumble. Here is what 40hz sounds like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxb4-ZL7zIk

I suppose the issue with the 'normal' method is not just that you have to (1) lift the speaker, but also (2) find blind the pole socket and then (3) guide the speaker into place, all while still stabilizing and bearing the whole weight of the speaker. This method eliminates steps (2) and (3). If I recall, you have the Markbass equivalent of the Evox, which seems like a lot easier setup. We have K8s which are easy enough to pole mount. I haven't actually myself hoiked a 20kg speaker onto a pole for many years; there are indeed better alternatives these days.

Set up the stand's legs as usual, but then lay the stand horizontally on the floor, and insert the speaker while it's in that orientation. Then raise the speaker up like a drawbridge.

Are you thinking of Mensinger, which has some relation with Maruszczyk, although I'm not sure exactly what.

Yes. If your head has a minimum load of 4ohms, both cabs must be 8ohms. If your head can run down to 2.7 or 2ohms, you have more options.