jrixn1

I think I've got that Designacable one (I can't remember 100% - but Designacable is my first port of call when I need a cable, so it's likely). I think mine is 3m. I haven't compared it to any others, but it's well built and doesn't reduce sound quality. I've had it for many years.

What head and cab(s) do you have, and does it have the option to add a second/third cab? If so, you could use an additional cab and a long speaker cable (not DI) to get it where it needs to be. But it won't have independent volume or EQ. Or if that isn't going to work - you could get an active monitor speaker, into which you plug the XLR coming from your head's DI out. Something like https://www.andertons.co.uk/rcf-art-710-a-mkiv-10-digital-active-speaker-700w-each-13000520 might work. There are loads of different size/price of active speakers: it depends on how loud the band and the drummer is (or specifically - how loud the monitor needs to be). Another related question: does the drummer need something just to get by, even if it's a bit mid-rangey; or do they want it to sound rich and lush? And a final consideration: some active speakers have EQ built it, so you could find one like that if that's a feature you need. Or you can use a separate, second bass combo. In that case though, I wouldn't use the DI from your head; instead, a splitter like a Boss LS-2 to feed your bass signal into the two separate rigs.

Yes - he says "that phrase [half a verse of Hey Ya] could be considered to be in 11/2", and I suppose if you count half-feel beats, then there are indeed 11 of them - but that's not what a time signature is! In the same way as you wouldn't ever consider half a verse of (say) Valerie to be in a time signature of 16/2 (when it's just 8 bars of 4/4). He's come up with at best an odd way to think of things, and I would say confusing/misguided.

It's definitely not in 11/2. It's in 4/4, with a bar of 2/4 every now and then.

Is it the number at the start of your url? https://www.basschat.co.uk/profile/11768-thegreek/ So 11768.

I'm very happy with my existing 732-A - always sounds great, and I've never run out of volume - so I wouldn't trade it in for a 932-A. If my 732-A was stolen and needed replacing, then perhaps; 932-A is £200 and 1kg extra though. The 732-A has been perfect for me.

Genuine question: if you can't tell the difference between a cheaper P bass and a more expensive one, why buy the expensive one in the first place?

It's super easy. I can't remember the last time I bought a bass from a shop in person. Buy online from a large retailer (like PMT or Andertons) and if you don't like it they will arrange a collection for £12. The benefit of them arranging it instead of you is that if there is any courier issues/damage/loss, the shop will sort it out. https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/returns/

I think there is one speakon and one 1/4". So you use speakons to connect the first two cabs to the amp (i.e. as you currently do). Then a 1/4" speaker cable to connect the second cab to the third.

Sandberg VS5 Maruszczyk Jake Yamaha BB435/BB735/BBP35 Sire P7 or upcoming P5

La Bella Deep Talkin' 0760M are heavy tension and 52-110 gauge. It's been a while since I've played Chromes, but I think the La Bellas might be stiffer. Now while they're not going to be brighter than Chromes, I don't find them as dark as generally reported. The mp3s attached to this post were La Bella 0760M in DGCF tuning on a P bass.

Looks like a stock natural satin BB234.

Is it one of these: https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2013/01/04/fender-custom-shop-unveils-2013-custom-collection-basses/ (I'm no expert... just Googled it!)

How about https://www.grbass.com/portfolio/pure-amp-800/ ?

Just completed another smooth transaction in person with Stew. Top bloke and can recommend 100%. Thanks Stew.

I had Dunlop flats on a 735A and La Bella DTF on a 434. The La Bellas are THE old-school tone, whereas the Dunlops are more versatile, so depends a bit on what repertoire you're playing.

I've been playing down a whole step recently. Strings were La Bella 0760M which are on the stiffer side anyway. Tuning down lowers the string tension, which in turn reduces the relief. Counter this by loosening the truss rod, i.e. turn it anti-clockwise slightly (start with 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn). What I do is press the E string down simultaneously at the 1st and 16th frets, and I'm trying to get the tiniest of gaps above the 8th fret - but not so low that the string rests on the fret. Then reset the action to your preference. Might not be able to go as low as previously, as the floppier strings now more easily rattle into the fingerboard. Finally, intonation. I find that to be the correct order to do things in: relief first, then action, then intonation.

Do they still make these? I only saw a used one, on eBay for £799. If that's the going rate, I'd rather get a brand new RCF 732A for £599. I've been using mine for three years now and couldn't be happier.

You have the large poles, I think, but do you know which ones? https://www.delano.de/pickup_overview/pc_5/pc_5_listing.html One has "the classic P-Bass® with slightly more attack, punchy bass and dynamic"; the other has "Tight, lightning-fast transients on top of meaty full range 5-string, ultra precision bass tone" Not that I can comment on the difference - but someone else might?

Can you not also go through the PA, and as a result lower your stage volume?