jrixn1

My Fender 9050 flats have those colours, so I guess some sort of Fender string.

What is "almost" ampless? 🤔 How are you monitoring yourself? One feature I like a lot on my EBS Stanley Clarke (and on my previous EBS MicroBass 3) is that its volume control affects the bass volume in my in-ears/active speaker, but not the DI. So I can easily adjust for "more me" (or "less me") without affecting the FOH mix.

This is really the best advice as you're (Jonrh98) spending so much money.

Isn't this your answer? Get a fretted Sire P7 and have the preamp removed.

If it sounds good, then you're doing it right. I use a three-band EQ pedal into an active PA speaker, and that's it; never been happier.

This diagram (in particular the lower third) shows what the frequencies mean: https://www.audio-issues.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/EQChart.jpg They define 'Bass' as between 63Hz and 250Hz, and within the 'Bass' region they use the descriptors 'Bottom', 'Boom', 'Punch', and 'Warmth'. 40Hz is probably too low to be of much musical use, although it can cut stage rumble. Here is what 40hz sounds like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxb4-ZL7zIk

I suppose the issue with the 'normal' method is not just that you have to (1) lift the speaker, but also (2) find blind the pole socket and then (3) guide the speaker into place, all while still stabilizing and bearing the whole weight of the speaker. This method eliminates steps (2) and (3). If I recall, you have the Markbass equivalent of the Evox, which seems like a lot easier setup. We have K8s which are easy enough to pole mount. I haven't actually myself hoiked a 20kg speaker onto a pole for many years; there are indeed better alternatives these days.

Set up the stand's legs as usual, but then lay the stand horizontally on the floor, and insert the speaker while it's in that orientation. Then raise the speaker up like a drawbridge.

Are you thinking of Mensinger, which has some relation with Maruszczyk, although I'm not sure exactly what.

Yes. If your head has a minimum load of 4ohms, both cabs must be 8ohms. If your head can run down to 2.7 or 2ohms, you have more options.

I think I've got that Designacable one (I can't remember 100% - but Designacable is my first port of call when I need a cable, so it's likely). I think mine is 3m. I haven't compared it to any others, but it's well built and doesn't reduce sound quality. I've had it for many years.

What head and cab(s) do you have, and does it have the option to add a second/third cab? If so, you could use an additional cab and a long speaker cable (not DI) to get it where it needs to be. But it won't have independent volume or EQ. Or if that isn't going to work - you could get an active monitor speaker, into which you plug the XLR coming from your head's DI out. Something like https://www.andertons.co.uk/rcf-art-710-a-mkiv-10-digital-active-speaker-700w-each-13000520 might work. There are loads of different size/price of active speakers: it depends on how loud the band and the drummer is (or specifically - how loud the monitor needs to be). Another related question: does the drummer need something just to get by, even if it's a bit mid-rangey; or do they want it to sound rich and lush? And a final consideration: some active speakers have EQ built it, so you could find one like that if that's a feature you need. Or you can use a separate, second bass combo. In that case though, I wouldn't use the DI from your head; instead, a splitter like a Boss LS-2 to feed your bass signal into the two separate rigs.

Yes - he says "that phrase [half a verse of Hey Ya] could be considered to be in 11/2", and I suppose if you count half-feel beats, then there are indeed 11 of them - but that's not what a time signature is! In the same way as you wouldn't ever consider half a verse of (say) Valerie to be in a time signature of 16/2 (when it's just 8 bars of 4/4). He's come up with at best an odd way to think of things, and I would say confusing/misguided.

It's definitely not in 11/2. It's in 4/4, with a bar of 2/4 every now and then.

Is it the number at the start of your url? https://www.basschat.co.uk/profile/11768-thegreek/ So 11768.

I'm very happy with my existing 732-A - always sounds great, and I've never run out of volume - so I wouldn't trade it in for a 932-A. If my 732-A was stolen and needed replacing, then perhaps; 932-A is £200 and 1kg extra though. The 732-A has been perfect for me.

Genuine question: if you can't tell the difference between a cheaper P bass and a more expensive one, why buy the expensive one in the first place?

It's super easy. I can't remember the last time I bought a bass from a shop in person. Buy online from a large retailer (like PMT or Andertons) and if you don't like it they will arrange a collection for £12. The benefit of them arranging it instead of you is that if there is any courier issues/damage/loss, the shop will sort it out. https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/returns/

I think there is one speakon and one 1/4". So you use speakons to connect the first two cabs to the amp (i.e. as you currently do). Then a 1/4" speaker cable to connect the second cab to the third.

Sandberg VS5 Maruszczyk Jake Yamaha BB435/BB735/BBP35 Sire P7 or upcoming P5

La Bella Deep Talkin' 0760M are heavy tension and 52-110 gauge. It's been a while since I've played Chromes, but I think the La Bellas might be stiffer. Now while they're not going to be brighter than Chromes, I don't find them as dark as generally reported. The mp3s attached to this post were La Bella 0760M in DGCF tuning on a P bass.

Looks like a stock natural satin BB234.