jrixn1

I found the one I used: "ZAP CA super thin".

This happens to quite a few people with the current line; both my BBs had this issue. Put a drop of thin superglue between the tuner head and the post. The thin stuff is best so it wicks into the gaps.

They make live-in covers with zipped/velcroed flaps in the right places. https://www.qsc.com/live-sound/products/loudspeakers/powered-loudspeakers/qsc-k2-seriestm-new/k122/k12-outdoor-cover/ https://saveltd.co.uk/genuine-rcf-padded-speaker-cover-bag-art-712-a--722-a--732-a--412-a--422-a-1141-p.asp

But you have to add 20% VAT, bringing it to £719 the same as UK sellers; and all the faffing around if you need to return it to Germany.

The second generation features perhaps sound useful if you were planning to use the speaker purely standalone, but as you say you're already going to use it with a mixer, pedals, etc. The band I'm in have K8, K10, and K subs, all first generation, and we've never considered upgrading.

The older Zoom B1on or the newer Zoom B1 Four. It also has multi fx, drum machine, tuner; but you don't have to use those features if you don't want to.

Since my Big Baby 2 was 12" and I knew that worked for me, I figured if the RCF was as good as they said, there should be no reason to have to move up to a larger/heavier 15" (RCF 735 or 745) just to retain the same functionality. I was also convinced by the explanations of the larger voice coil advantages; so I took the 732 over the 712. If the 732 had turned out not to be any good, I'd have returned it and stuck with Barefaced. Being very happy with the 732, I've not tried a 735 or 745 but by all accounts they are beasts! The QSC K-series are good too. My band have K10 and to me they are just very slightly harsh at very high volumes.

I've used Mackie speakers in the past, although not their current line. If it were me, I'd stick with the forum favourites of RCF or QSC. I replaced my Shuttle 9.2 and Big Baby 2 with an RCF 732A. Two Big Baby 2s and a Crown power amp will come to around £2000. Whereas two RCF 732As will be £1200. Or if used ok to save a bit more, what about this pair of K12s (1st gen) for £960: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QSC-K12-Speakers-Pair-Active-12/324503068352

Why? Many people are moving the other way; i.e. get rid of bass gear in favour of PA speakers. You can use a bass preamp pedal into a PA speaker if it's just the EQ controls that you are missing.

https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Hipshot,_Licensed_tuners.html You probably want the 1/2" clovers (HB6C) at 57g each. The lightest are the 1/2" Y (HB6Y) at 50g each, but they won't look as good as the clovers (IMO). For a five-string you'll need four bass tuners and one treble tuner. The bassdirect website isn't the most intuitive; bass and treble are on different pages.

I remember someone else was recently posting about upgrading their 605. He went for Delano. Start from here: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/302794-the-yamaha-bb-mega-thread/?do=findComment&comment=4393821

My 735A's pots were easy to turn, and it was clear when I hit the centre detent.

@pburrows Didn't you have a QSC 12.2? Did that not work in this situation?

You have to be carefully when Googling. If it's the "4kg" review which flashes up on the first page, what it actually says when you click though is: "I read that a 5-string Harley Benton Enhanced MP-5EB with an Alder body weighs up to 4 kg! FALSE !! My weight is 4,780 kg"

The only way you should wind the string on is by turning the tuning key. Don't loop the string manually around the peg a few times first.

I twice used a borrowed Orange setup. With an acoustic folk singer-songwriter, it was an Orange Terror and was ok on bass guitar, although it only seemed to have two settings: off, and extremely loud. The other time, a straight-ahead jazz gig on upright, I can't remember exactly which Orange it was - it might have been a combo - but I struggled to get a good sound from it.

You wouldn't gain any quality going through both a Zoom and MXR. The MXR on its own should be better quality than the Zoom on its own, because the MXR is all analogue. In contrast, the Zoom first has to convert from analogue to digital, then digital back to analogue. It has to do the double conversion even when it's in bypass mode. Having said that, I used Zoom pedal for years and could not hear any issues. The advantage to the MXR (or any analogue system with real knobs) is that you can see at a glance what your settings are, and tweaking is really easy of course. On the Zoom (or any digital system), you have to dig around in the menu system. MXR are very well made kit. I used the MXR M81 DI which is very clean and has the useful semi-parametric mids.

The circuit for a fully-open tone control would be a resistor and capacitor in parallel to the pickup.

You can't do this on the B3 because the limit is three simultaneous effects, so you could only have: (1) compressor, (2) preamp, & (3) any other effect. However, you could on the newer B3n (which has five slots). You can choose which of the five are controlled by the three footswitches. So (1) compressor & (2) preamp, not assigned to any footswitch; leaving you with slots 3, 4, and 5 for any three other effects, controlled by the three footswitches. You can use any Boss-shaped 9V power supply. The official current draw for B3 and B3n is 500mA. I know for B3 you should be fine with 200mA; not sure about B3n.

Sounds like you want a P bass! I had a G&L L2500 which was really nice. Similar to Lozz196, I spent my time trying to dial it in to sound like a P bass. It gets quite close but yes in the end, I sold it and got a P bass. There's a P bass available at every budget. I got a Classic Vibe 70s P, knowing I had the option to return it and move up the price point if I wasn't happy. But I like it a lot and kept it, and ended up getting a second CV 60s P as well. You can get two CV for the price of one Player. I keep them set up slightly differently, to cover all eventualities: one has flats and the other has slightly different flats 😀

Checking my old sales, mine was 4.2kg on a bathroom scale (not the most accurate method).

Yes, connect ground and shield together. The pots might already provide a connection to the cavity shielding. Check with a multimeter? Often all grounds connect to the same physical point: the back of a pot, or a lug screwed into the cavity.

I'm not completely sure what you're asking for. At first, you say you want to sound like an ACME Motown DI, but cheaper; but then you also say "transparent and uncoloured [...] just a pure DI signal". But the ACME is designed specifically to colour the signal to sound like the console from the Motown studio. For Motown, try a TC Electronics MojoMojo on the lower gain settings. Then what I do for live use is go through an RCF powered speaker (which is transparent and uncoloured); or at home, use the phones output of a Behringer interface. Or if you're otherwise happy with the Veyron, run it into a headphone amp or interface.

Just completed another sale with Mike, with his usual good comms and fast payment. Thanks Mike!