jrixn1

Out of interest, what are the three cabs?

Sorry, that might have been me saying: "One thing perhaps worth considering is using the key of Db instead of the key of C#" If so, my wording was too British i.e. it may have read like I was making a suggestion - but it wasn't a suggestion 😀 What I actually meant was: Never use C# major! Always use Db major, because the rule is to choose the key with the fewest accidentals. I see your Mr Big Stuff chart has six sharps; that is actually F# major. I think D# major is one of the ugliest keys; I believe it is 5 sharps and 2 double-sharps! The notes of the D# major scale are: D# E# F## G# A# B# C## D#. Eb is the correct key to use here, as it has only 3 flats: Eb F G Ab Bb C D Eb.

It's clearest if you join together the tails of all notes which fall in the same beat: Personally I like to do the same with rests as well, although not everyone does:

Good choice to go with La Bellas - but even though it is indeed a short-scale bass, there is a special set for string-through Mustangs: https://www.labella.com/products/760f-mus-stainless-steel-flat-wound-30-scale/ - "includes a 1.75" flexible tail by the ball-end" (the part of the string which goes through the body).

G&L L-1000?

Yep, D'Addario Chromes. Good choice.

Yes exactly, marketing buzz... "full range" but only within a certain range 😁

This one, https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_g212a_fr_active_cabinet.htm ? "open back cabinet" "90Hz-20kHz" Afraid it'll be no good for bass.

I've used a Pedaltrain Booster when I had two small pedals. https://www.thomann.de/gb/pedaltrain_pb2.htm https://www.thomann.de/gb/pedaltrain_pb3.htm

Perhaps. But first, if you're not already, flatwounds?

There's another scam with PayPal which goes like this: Buyer genuinely pays with PayPal and collects the item in person. Buyer subsequently opens a dispute with PayPal claiming the item was not received. PayPal requests a proof of delivery from the seller. This cannot be produced (because it doesn't exist, because item was not sent through a postal service); PayPal sides with the buyer. You made the correct move here: i.e. never use PayPal for a transaction made in person.

The one in the OP is the original version which didn't have any switching; the pickups are permanently humbuckers. There was then a second version a couple of years later with the additional four-way rotary switch which allows each pickup to be humbucking or single coil. You still then blend the pickups in the traditional way (VVT). I paid £401 (strange price!) from GAK in November 2013.

I no longer own the bass, but I measured by doubling the distance between nut and 12th fret. Thanks - it's good to know the official line and that there's an increased risk. Perhaps I was lucky!

And previously with Fender 9050 flats. I see (and agree) what you're saying about the windings going on the post, but these ones definitely didn't break either.

I had a J&D mini bass, 28.5" scale length, with La Bella flats on it and they definitely did not break.

Perhaps it depends on the camera. What camera do you have, and how does it detect whether it's an H1n or a SR-PAX2 at the other end of an audio cable? I have a Fuji X-series camera, and it definitely accepts an external mic straight into its mini-jack input.

I might have misunderstood- but why do you need the SR-PAX2 mixer? Can you not just plug the H1n straight into the camera?

I don't think there's really any right or wrong; but yep, that's how I'd do it: I think I understand what you're doing, which is learning scale degrees. These are the intervals relative to the root, and it's a good exercise and learning tool for how, why, and when to use certain notes in certain situations. One of the first things to notice is that he is mainly using chord tones here. If you don't already have it, you must get the book "Standing in the Shadows of Motown"!

Bear in mind that the 3/8" or 1/4" is the bushing size, not the hole size: the 3/8" bushing needs a 9/16" hole, and the 1/4" bushing needs a 11/16" hole. All dimensions here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1574/0577/files/206.PDF?5066948558007359183 Bass Direct's website isn't amazing to navigate... the bass-side tuners are here: https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Hipshot,_Licensed_tuners.html , and the treble-side are here: https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Hipshot,_Licensed_tuners_treble_side.html

Plug the bass and the phone (or other device) containing the backing track into your bass amp (or mixer, etc). Connect the output of the amp to the mic input of the laptop. Record the video on the laptop using the webcam.

Mine is 33xxx and I bought it from a retailer (not custom order) in Aug 2019. Here's a rough extrapolation using the numbers so far!

Couple of other thoughts in this thread, if you didn't see it already: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/419763-ebs-microbass-3/ For power, any power supply which supplies enough current should do; I use https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Fame-DC-Junior/art-GIT0040359-000 but there are others e.g. https://truetone.com/cs6/ .

I have the walnut one and I like it. The neck is nice; it's quite shallow (front-to-back) and I find it easy to play. Mine weighs 3.75kg which is on the lower side for a P bass. I couldn't say if that's typical of the current Classic Vibe line, although I noticed the black and walnut are nato but I think the green one (is it a limited edition?) is poplar.

I think the question shouldn't be phrased as traditional rig vs powered speaker; it's more about low-quality gear vs high-quality gear. A £350 powered PA speaker won't be good as a £1000 bass combo. I use a powered speaker for either monitoring or backline, depending on the gig situation.

I suppose it depends which Markbass combo; a CMD121H is £700 but a K1 is £1300. I replaced my Shuttle 9.2 + Big Baby 2 rig (cost £1500 new) with an RCF 732-A (cost £650 new), and I don't find the RCF's bass response lacking in any way; in fact, with a five-string bass, I high-pass it at 60Hz.