jrixn1

Just throwing around a couple of other ideas: drop tuning; installing a detuner e.g. Hipshot Xtender; or an alternative tuning somewhere between EADG and BEAD. I tuned DGCF (I think it's called "D standard") for a while, since D was the lowest note I wanted, and I wanted to lose as little high range as possible.

There's one on Gumtree at the moment: https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/sandberg-california-supreme-vm5-precision-bass-2013-fender-style-/1376416878 £1100 seems on the higher side to me, but then again they don't come up that often, so depends how badly you want it...

I think strictly speaking, the letter indicates the body shape, not the pickup configuration. The "T" is like a jazz body and the "V" is like a precision body: However, yes, the T body comes with the jazz pickups, and the V body comes with the precision pickups. However that stops applying with the TM2 and VM2, which have the same double-MM pickup configuration but with the different body shapes. TT = 2 x jazz TM = jazz middle + MM bridge TM2 = 2 x MM VS = precision VT = reverse precision middle + jazz bridge VM2 = 2 x MM They previously called the "V" the "P" but it was changed, I think coming up to around 10 years ago? Have a play with the configurator! http://configurator.sandberg-guitars.de/

Down for the Count. You're in the Fantastics, yes? Seen some of your videos, and hope to catch one of your gigs in the future.

Funny, I was just browsing the Gardiner Houlgate auction (https://guitar-auctions.co.uk/catalogue-preview-10th-11th-june-2020/), which is tomorrow morning, and they have one in there, lot 85:

The sizes given (3/8" and 1/2") are the shaft sizes, not the hole sizes. Here's a diagram of both, with all the dimensions: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1574/0577/files/206.PDF So the 3/8" key wants a 9/16" diameter hole, and the 1/2" key wants a 11/16" diameter hole. What size is the Sire hole?

The behaviour of some pedals (e.g. compression, overdrive) is a function of the input level. E.g. if you turn the bass volume down, you'll get less overdrive. Maybe in other situation that's exactly what you want - but in this case if you want the exact same tone but just louder/quieter, you need to adjust further downstream than the bass.

It doesn't really matter to you who did the damage. Contact Andertons and they will sort it out. (Separately, if Andertons want some recompense from DHL, that is entirely their business between them and DHL - you're not a party to that contract, you're not involved in that dispute.)

A DI box does output a balanced signal, but its output is mic level, which won't drive a power amp. I think that's why he looking for 20dB or so of gain. MartinB already raised the good question about why the signal needs to be balanced in this scenario ("The purpose of this is driving a power amp or powered monitor right off the pedal board.")

Nice one. I play in a band with James (drums), he's absolutely solid 👍

Yes, I had a set, they are good. It's this guy: https://www.inlaystickers.com/collections/1-bass or on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/jockomoinlaystickers

The webpage says "Choose from alternative colour/pickguard combinations" which I interpret perhaps more pessimistically that they will swap the pickguard from bass A to bass B, rather than a completely custom refinish. Maybe I'm wrong; still, I agree with you, worth looking into, and it's nice to be able to have the pickups of your choice from the outset vs being lumped with ones you already know you don't want.

Did you see there is currently one on reverb - https://reverb.com/item/33975682-ibanez-srh505-semi-hollow-5-string-active-bass-guitar-in-dragon-eye-burst-flat

Is it a Squier MB-4? The number of frets doesn't actually matter - the important thing is the scale length, which is the distance between the nut and the bridge. For your Squier, you'll need "long scale" strings, which is the most standard length. I don't know much about punk rock so I'll leave specific brand recommendations to someone else.

I see the cart page even says "Test Mode — No money will be collected" 🙄 Perhaps you can call them and buy it over the phone?

The sibling UMC204HD has a stereo/mono switch for direct monitoring, so a mono input comes through in both channels. With the UMC22, if your bass is in input 1 and you monitor directly, does the bass only come out of the left channel?

I'll pile in with the Sandberg SL love - it plays lovely, sounds great, and is perfectly balanced. Mine is cedar and it is a soft wood; I wouldn't say I baby my basses, but I'm pretty careful; however I have quite a few dings, although they are nearly all the most minor type, that you only see if you go looking for them. Mine is a 5-string and 3.3kg; I don't ever want to go back to a 4.5kg bass!

Sounds a bit like fdeck's HPF-Pre series 3 (fixed 12 dB/octave + variable 12 dB/octave) The Irish builder Rafferty builds the fdeck series 2 (12 dB/octave). I don't know someone this side of Atlantic who builds a series 3.

I don't really know, I'm just guessing 😃 I agree that the isolated tracks I hear on YouTube are generally more middy and less bassy than I thought they would be, given how they sound in the mix. Also they are often a lot more overdriven, when the final mix sounds clean.

Although thinking about it, I suppose the same can be said of the "no bass" mix i.e. I don't know where that came from and if/how it's EQed or not.

I would guess the isolated track is not EQed yet. The reason I say that is that I also have a "no bass" mix of Sir Duke; I overlaid the two tracks, and it doesn't sound like the album version.

Sounds like he is in the wrong, but sometimes you have to be pragmatic. I can't see that it's worth the hassle of somehow forcing him to buy it (if that is even possible). I would return his money via PayPal, and re-list the case. Maybe remove the photo of the cab from the listing, as rightly or wrongly it's caused some confusion - just put a photo of the case itself.

I had a BB425X from 2013-2014, and BB735A from 2018-2019. 2014 was long ago enough that I can't really remember the details; but I would say overall I preferred the BB735A, both in feel/comfort and sound. If I was buying BB today, I'd get a 434 or 435. I did also previously own a 434, and to me it is equal quality to the 735A, other than the existence of the preamp. The preamp is good - but since I prefer a passive bass and removed the battery, the preamp scores no points for me personally.

I just picked up a Squier Classic Vibe fretless jazz, but it has this problem: Running a finger down the fingerboard, can definitely slightly feel each "fret"; and then there is one marker that is coming out. (This bass is getting sent back to the retailer, of course.) On the Sire, is the fingerboard smooth/coated, or can you feel the fret markers?