jrixn1

Is that the VT? The VS has no bridge pickup.

With Barefaced, I found calling them works better than emailing. https://barefacedaudio.com/pages/contact_us

Two examples here: 8lbs 10oz and 8lbs 6oz

Definitely would have to have a new bridge cut. You can't just turn the existing one around either, as they only fit one way. Unfortunately there are no off-the-shelf bridges - they are custom carved by a luthier to fit the individual bass. You'd probably need a new fingerboard too; some are bevelled on the E-string side. Photo from google images.

Teen Town, or something from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaco_Pastorius_(album)

This has a 5/4 intro although they switch to 4/4 pretty soon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzqoqzSZkPs

The two-metre guideline only really applies outdoors. I'm not sure I'd want to be indoors for any extended period of time. Imagine someone is chain-smoking in your vicinity, and you are concerned about secondhand smoke. Outdoors, with an infinite supply of fresh, moving air - no problem; but indoors, the whole room will be hot-boxed in no time. E.g. this article: "Any environment that is enclosed, with poor air circulation and high density of people, spells trouble." https://www.erinbromage.com/post/the-risks-know-them-avoid-them

Yes, I also put all my trust in designacable. Van Damme or Sommer cable, Neutrik connectors, and fast service too. https://www.designacable.com/ https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/designacable

I found this was good EQ, build quality, and clean: https://www.jimdunlop.com/mxr-bass-preamp/

Perhaps it's also that the Sires sell in high volumes in the first place (e.g. https://www.thomann.de/gb/topseller_GF_electric_basses.html) so I would expect to see correspondingly numerically more of them in the used marketplace.

There's generally been a lot more discussion about the V (jazz) and P (precision) models; less so the M model which is the one in the original post above. Here are some links though: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/343648-nbd-sire-m7-2nd-generation-initial-review/ https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/352954-sire-m7-version-2/ https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/299031-nbd-sire-m7-5-string/

I wonder if https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/35-accessories-and-misc/ might be a better sub-forum to ask in. How's the seal? Here is a test: https://www.sensaphonics.com/pages/audio-seal-test Also, since you have two new pieces of equipment, how do things sound if you use the Sennheisers with a wired connection, or the Apple earphones with the SubZero? Perhaps it will narrow the issue down to one component.

Yes, exactly this. So if the actual correct notes of your song are: C, D, E, you must in fact tell the saxophonist the "wrong" notes: D, E, F#. Then when you play together, it will sound correct.

Some old instruments could only play some notes; e.g. a bugle. To play in other keys, the only option was to use a larger or smaller bugle. They decided that notes which were the same to play physically should have the same named name on each instrument, even though they sound different; otherwise they would have to learn a new system for each instrument. Yes, bass guitar is a transposing instrument - they sound an octave lower than the written notation would suggest. If you wrote it at pitch, there would be too many ledger lines.

I'm in a so-called professional band and our sax player managed to break her ankle in the middle of a gig, and I thought it was very unprofessional that not only did she not bring a back up ankle, but also that the band leader didn't bring a backup saxophonist.

The basic structure looks fine and readable to me. One thing perhaps worth considering is using the key of Db instead of the key of C#, just because there will be fewer sharps/flats. For example, in the key of C#, the third is an E# and the seventh is a B#, which can trip some people up. Whereas in Db major, you'll have F and C, which are a lot more familiar.

Does it absolutely have to mount to the tailpiece? I played a lot of rockabilly a while back now, starting out as well with the K&K preamp, but in the end I moved to running two cables from the bass; it turned out I rarely needed to make any essential tweaks mid-song. It's just you'll have considerably more options if you can move to a pedalboard or dual-channel amp setup.

As dodge_bass says, or something similar like this? Actually - perhaps numbering as he said, bars 4 and 8 etc, is better than 5 and 9.

Unsure if you're open to other suggestions (it's a slightly different concept to the head & cab setup). I previously had a Big Baby 2 but I now use of these RCFs. https://www.thomann.de/gb/rcf_art_732_a_mk_iv.htm The things they have in common with the Big Baby 2 are the clarity, faithful, very loud, and sound quality not compromised at high volumes. RCF is heavier, but with better handles. I too play in a 10-piece function band and it's been perfect for me.

Spectorcore around £800 I think; what's the upper end of your budget? This Sandberg SL (Super Light) is £1,222 and weighs 3.3kg: https://www.thomann.de/gb/sandberg_california_ii_sl_tm_5_bb_mn.htm

This one was given away! at £230: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/334752-sold-yamaha-bb435/ This one's still here after a few months, at £400 (includes a second custom pickguard): https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/398606-feeler-yamaha-bb435/

Sorry, but that's an iconic bassline and you have played it incorrectly. It doesn't change at bar 5; it stays the same. Here's your homework for this week! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-488UORrfJ0

If I recall correctly, there were three versions of the Two10: fixed 4-ohm, fixed 12-ohm, and switchable. You probably don't want the one which is only 4-ohms because it won't work optimally with an 8-ohm Four10 - the small cab will be getting 2/3 of the power (I think!).

This is an upright bass? In which case you don't want to DI.