jrixn1

You can certainly ask for a reduction - but you aren't legally entitled to one. You can (of course) return the bass for a full refund including the basic outbound postage cost.

Mike bought some strings from me and all payment and communication was clear and prompt. Thanks!

I haven't watched it yet but will do so later. I did a reasonably successful JackTrip session for the first time with a musician friend about a week ago. I found it a bit tricky to set up, although it did all work in the end. It was an advantage that my friend already knew what he was doing and so could talk me through configuring my client to connect to his server, and also to reconfigure the audio routing on my computer. I have to say for context we are both using Ubuntu for many years and comfortable using the terminal; I wonder how it plays out for a "normal person" - do you have a technical background? Anyway, I'm sure it would have helped me if this video had existed last week; as far as I can see, it is the only tutorial of its kind.

There's more than one way to play it, but you can start with your first finger on the first fret of the D string (which is Eb). You can play the whole song from there without shifting position.

Not disagreeing, as there are definitely some heavier ones, but Sandberg are one of the few manufacturers who do specifically have a line of lightweight basses (their "SL" range = "Super Light") which are all under 7lbs.

There's a granularity mismatch. I suppose it's like using a weighbridge to weigh yourself. Whether your method is to stand on it directly, or to weigh your lorry twice (one with you in the cab, one without), it's never going to be that accurate.

Another good option is kitchen scales. I have a digital one which wasn't very expensive (under £10 I think). (I discovered a secondary benefit is that I can also use it in the kitchen!) The thing about any scales is that there will always be a trade-off between its maximum capacity and its absolute error. What I mean is that for consumer bathroom scales, which are designed to approximately weigh a human, it's not a marketing or manufacturing disaster for these units to be out by a kg or two: the difference between 74kg and 75kg is not too much of a bother. But when weighing a bass guitar, the difference between 4kg and 5kg is huge. So with the fishing or kitchen scales, whose max capacity is only a few kg, the error will be maybe +/-100g which is a lot more accurate. I think it's a good purchase for any seller, since the weight seems to be very important to some buyers.

I found I got "the most upright sound" from a fretted Precision with flats and a foam mute. I guess you could use fretless (vs fretted), but I'm not convinced it's a major factor. The Rob Allen clips I've heard have a lot of "mwah", which isn't really what an upright sounds like. Perhaps I'm listening to the wrong clips - can anyone link to a good example?

Depends what "best" means - cheapest, or highest audio quality, or something else? Here are some popular options: Zoom B1 Four Phil Jones Bighead Yamaha SessionCake Or perhaps your existing amp head or pre-amp pedal, if it has an aux input and headphone output? Your Bluetooth headphones might not be any good because of the latency (you'll pluck the string but won't hear it until 1/10 second later).

What is it specifically about the scenario which means it must done using only desk EQ, and that you can't use a BDDI pedal?

I can't help with the main query, but have you tried removing the saddle spring?

Fair enough, I see your point. Furthermore, it's not just the head and cabs which have changed, but the bass as well. @Graham Milton , how does it sound if you play the Status through the Markbass rig?

Tagging @stewblack as I believe he has a room full of both older Trace gear and some newer smaller/lightweight stuff?

Depends on your particular situation, but I find it really useful having a volume control which doesn't affect the DI level - I think that is not the case for both the Harley Benton and the Spectradrive. Fwiw I ended up with a Microbass as I need two channels, but it is more expensive.

The topic title "Mark Bass Rig" and the large picture of said rig have put focus on it, with many replies suggesting how to adjust the Mark Bass. However, I think he is no longer interested in keeping that rig. I remember his recent previous topic, https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/419807-lightweight-gear , which provided some answers to the questions people are now asking here. He has been happy for 20 years with his other setup, which is a Status Energy into a Trace stack. I wonder if a better topic question would have been posting the following picture and asking "Which lightweight setup will sound the most like this?"

The SRH500F has 19mm spacing (so unusual for an Ibanez SR). Slightly over budget at £535 currently at bax-shop.

Particularly as you already have your pre-amp and you plan to run flat, an RCF 710-A is cheaper than a One10 and has the power amp built in. https://www.thomann.de/gb/rcf_art_710_a_mk_iv.htm

And just to add, in case anyone new doesn't realize, you need to be logged in to see the 'wanted' sub-forum. Here are the direct links: https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/19-basses-for-sale/ https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/22-items-wanted-no-trades/

Check out the switch options on a G&L L2000 - either stock wiring or some of the popular mods.

Ordered a loom over the weekend and it was with me on Tuesday. He was also happy to provide some wiring advice for my specific situation. Excellent stuff - thanks!

I did the conversion this evening, using a KiOgon loom. https://www.basschat.co.uk/profile/7835-kiogon/ If it helps anyone who wonders about the wiring: It turns out that the larger grey and black wires are in fact two-core screened cable: inside there is a red wire, and white wire, and the shielding. I copied the original Sandberg wiring which is red=signal, and then wired the white and shielding together, which goes to ground. The Sandberg control plate holes were slightly too small, so they needed to be reamed (or perhaps I could have asked if pots with smaller shafts were available). Plugged it in and it sounds good, and I now have a proper tone knob which works across its full rotation.

I remember this 'cab' build from last year: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/381530-pseudo-ampeg-ikea-bass-cab-build/ If you need to support an amp head on an angled cab, you can use one of these: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/braeda-laptop-support-black-60150176/ar

I'd prefer to have the instruction located by the "end repeat" sign, as that is where my eye is at the time I have to make the decision whether to repeat or go on. Otherwise I might have forgotten by now how many times I was meant to play it, etc. Writing "6 times" is probably clear enough, but it is possible someone might think you mean "Repeat 6 times" which, very strictly speaking, means you play it seven times in total. So I'd write "Play 6 times" to make it completely unambiguous.