jrixn1

Yes, exactly this. So if the actual correct notes of your song are: C, D, E, you must in fact tell the saxophonist the "wrong" notes: D, E, F#. Then when you play together, it will sound correct.

Some old instruments could only play some notes; e.g. a bugle. To play in other keys, the only option was to use a larger or smaller bugle. They decided that notes which were the same to play physically should have the same named name on each instrument, even though they sound different; otherwise they would have to learn a new system for each instrument. Yes, bass guitar is a transposing instrument - they sound an octave lower than the written notation would suggest. If you wrote it at pitch, there would be too many ledger lines.

I'm in a so-called professional band and our sax player managed to break her ankle in the middle of a gig, and I thought it was very unprofessional that not only did she not bring a back up ankle, but also that the band leader didn't bring a backup saxophonist.

The basic structure looks fine and readable to me. One thing perhaps worth considering is using the key of Db instead of the key of C#, just because there will be fewer sharps/flats. For example, in the key of C#, the third is an E# and the seventh is a B#, which can trip some people up. Whereas in Db major, you'll have F and C, which are a lot more familiar.

Does it absolutely have to mount to the tailpiece? I played a lot of rockabilly a while back now, starting out as well with the K&K preamp, but in the end I moved to running two cables from the bass; it turned out I rarely needed to make any essential tweaks mid-song. It's just you'll have considerably more options if you can move to a pedalboard or dual-channel amp setup.

As dodge_bass says, or something similar like this? Actually - perhaps numbering as he said, bars 4 and 8 etc, is better than 5 and 9.

Unsure if you're open to other suggestions (it's a slightly different concept to the head & cab setup). I previously had a Big Baby 2 but I now use of these RCFs. https://www.thomann.de/gb/rcf_art_732_a_mk_iv.htm The things they have in common with the Big Baby 2 are the clarity, faithful, very loud, and sound quality not compromised at high volumes. RCF is heavier, but with better handles. I too play in a 10-piece function band and it's been perfect for me.

Spectorcore around £800 I think; what's the upper end of your budget? This Sandberg SL (Super Light) is £1,222 and weighs 3.3kg: https://www.thomann.de/gb/sandberg_california_ii_sl_tm_5_bb_mn.htm

This one was given away! at £230: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/334752-sold-yamaha-bb435/ This one's still here after a few months, at £400 (includes a second custom pickguard): https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/398606-feeler-yamaha-bb435/

Sorry, but that's an iconic bassline and you have played it incorrectly. It doesn't change at bar 5; it stays the same. Here's your homework for this week! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-488UORrfJ0

If I recall correctly, there were three versions of the Two10: fixed 4-ohm, fixed 12-ohm, and switchable. You probably don't want the one which is only 4-ohms because it won't work optimally with an 8-ohm Four10 - the small cab will be getting 2/3 of the power (I think!).

This is an upright bass? In which case you don't want to DI.

You can certainly ask for a reduction - but you aren't legally entitled to one. You can (of course) return the bass for a full refund including the basic outbound postage cost.

Mike bought some strings from me and all payment and communication was clear and prompt. Thanks!

I haven't watched it yet but will do so later. I did a reasonably successful JackTrip session for the first time with a musician friend about a week ago. I found it a bit tricky to set up, although it did all work in the end. It was an advantage that my friend already knew what he was doing and so could talk me through configuring my client to connect to his server, and also to reconfigure the audio routing on my computer. I have to say for context we are both using Ubuntu for many years and comfortable using the terminal; I wonder how it plays out for a "normal person" - do you have a technical background? Anyway, I'm sure it would have helped me if this video had existed last week; as far as I can see, it is the only tutorial of its kind.

There's more than one way to play it, but you can start with your first finger on the first fret of the D string (which is Eb). You can play the whole song from there without shifting position.

Not disagreeing, as there are definitely some heavier ones, but Sandberg are one of the few manufacturers who do specifically have a line of lightweight basses (their "SL" range = "Super Light") which are all under 7lbs.

There's a granularity mismatch. I suppose it's like using a weighbridge to weigh yourself. Whether your method is to stand on it directly, or to weigh your lorry twice (one with you in the cab, one without), it's never going to be that accurate.

Another good option is kitchen scales. I have a digital one which wasn't very expensive (under £10 I think). (I discovered a secondary benefit is that I can also use it in the kitchen!) The thing about any scales is that there will always be a trade-off between its maximum capacity and its absolute error. What I mean is that for consumer bathroom scales, which are designed to approximately weigh a human, it's not a marketing or manufacturing disaster for these units to be out by a kg or two: the difference between 74kg and 75kg is not too much of a bother. But when weighing a bass guitar, the difference between 4kg and 5kg is huge. So with the fishing or kitchen scales, whose max capacity is only a few kg, the error will be maybe +/-100g which is a lot more accurate. I think it's a good purchase for any seller, since the weight seems to be very important to some buyers.

I found I got "the most upright sound" from a fretted Precision with flats and a foam mute. I guess you could use fretless (vs fretted), but I'm not convinced it's a major factor. The Rob Allen clips I've heard have a lot of "mwah", which isn't really what an upright sounds like. Perhaps I'm listening to the wrong clips - can anyone link to a good example?

Depends what "best" means - cheapest, or highest audio quality, or something else? Here are some popular options: Zoom B1 Four Phil Jones Bighead Yamaha SessionCake Or perhaps your existing amp head or pre-amp pedal, if it has an aux input and headphone output? Your Bluetooth headphones might not be any good because of the latency (you'll pluck the string but won't hear it until 1/10 second later).

What is it specifically about the scenario which means it must done using only desk EQ, and that you can't use a BDDI pedal?

I can't help with the main query, but have you tried removing the saddle spring?

Fair enough, I see your point. Furthermore, it's not just the head and cabs which have changed, but the bass as well. @Graham Milton , how does it sound if you play the Status through the Markbass rig?