jrixn1

I've not used one myself but the current Basschat gadget du jour is https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/417800-yamaha-session-cake-headphone-amp-mixer-%C2%A3999/

Could you use the DI output for recording? Would the 500 be that much louder than the 330? Not sure what your setup is, but adding a second speaker cabinet will make things louder (if you're only using one at the moment).

It's commonly misspelled, so try searching for "Squier" as well.

Centre at 20Hz sounds comically low. I suppose it depends how wide it is as well though.

Says 600Hz, assuming the P series has the same "Heritage-3" pre-amp as the V series. https://www.sire-usa.com/f-a-qb/ Search that page for question "Can we have a copy of your preamp manual for the V7 and M7?"

Why do you prefer through-body? Being pragmatic, it sounds like your only option is to string through the bridge.

It was theoretical, having seen a supply like this one, which has 5V, 9V, 12V, and 18V outputs.

Does it depend on the voltage of the pedals? This is what I would do: First calculate the capacity of your battery (capacity = charge X voltage). The charge (in mAh) and voltage (in V) should be written on the back of the battery or in its manual. e.g. capacity = 6600mAh X 3.7V = 24420mWh Then add up the power each pedal uses (power = current X voltage); e.g. pedal 1 is 250mA, 9V: power = 250mA X 9V = 2250mW pedal 2 is 50mA, 18V: power = 50mA X 18V = 900mW Add these together to get the total power: 2250mW + 900mW = 3150mW. Then divide the capacity by the power: e.g. 24420mWh / 3150mW = 7.75 hours Having said that - in my case, I did all the calculations and concluded I would be fine. Nevertheless, my rechargable battery ran out of juice during a gig and I haven't dared use it since.

An active bass or an engaged pedal will provide a buffer. Personally I would look at passive DI box as it's simpler to power, and will eliminate noise.

Move to in-ear monitoring - the ultimate sound quality to size/weight ratio!

The advantages of a passive DI are that it doesn't require a power supply, and there isn't a chance it will introduce noise. However: 1. Is your bass passive? 2. Is your tuner true bypass? 3a. Is your OD true bypass? 3b. If yes, do you ever disengage the OD when playing? If all four answers are 'yes', then your signal is not buffered and you might need an active DI. The reason is that without a buffer, the PA might present too low an impedance to your pickups, resulting in a loss of high-end tone. An active DI would introduce such a buffer. Myself, I gig ampless and currently use a preamp pedal with a built-in (active) DI. Having said that, and reading back what I've written above - there was just the one gig where the sound guy was getting a small amount of noise at his end from my signal; he thought it was some sort of power supply interference, and in the end we just lived with it - but I wonder if I'd had a passive DI box to hand it would have helped? Previous to that setup, I used a passive Radial. I've only read good things about Orchid but aren't they all active with the only power options being phantom or a battery? My concern would be, depending on the venue/desk/sound person's mood, can you guarantee you will always be supplied phantom; and for me at least I'm not powering any pedal with a battery as that's another thing to worry about.

I don't have a horrible sound going through a DI box. Most guitarists I play with go directly to the desk via a Helix (i.e. no mic involved), and they sound great too. Sorry to hear it hasn't worked for you. What is your signal path?

Did you remove it in the end? I'm also considering converting my TT5 to passive. I'm happy enough doing any soldering, but I've only ever worked on passive basses. Here's what it looks like inside: And here are the connections (and my guesses): hole 1 (battery?) red → circuit board black → hole 4 * hole 2 (neck pickup?) grey → circuit board (neck pickup signal?) black → screw (neck pickup ground?) hole 3 (bridge + bridge pickup?) large black → circuit board (bridge pickup signal?) medium black → screw (bridge ground wire??) thin black → screw (bridge pickup ground?) hole 4 (jack socket?) black → hole 1 * black → screw (jack socket ground?) white → circuit board (jack socket signal?) In addition, there is a connection between the screw and the circuit board (circuit board ground?) Can someone look over it, and are my guesses (in italics) correct?

The only things I can think of are: if your amp's DI is of particularly low quality - but a sound person would probably have complained to you by now your amp blows up in the middle of the set - with an external DI box, the signal to FOH is preserved. (I did once have an amp die on me, at a wedding gig, during the first dance... 😟 )

In addition, I'd recommend thin superglue, which will wick into the gaps rather than form a blob. I used "ZAP thin CA" which I bought online.

Not sure I agree, as that doubles the pulse to 168bpm. Listen to the drums... you would have the backbeat fall on beat 3?

Bass guitar (and double bass) is notated one octave above how it sounds. Technically, you should use this clef: although no one does - but it might explain why could sound wrong, depending on what Sibelius does when it plays back.

I second Dad's advice. As for the jam track, you need a "one chord" jam/vamp; e.g.

Not quite try before you buy, but to bear in mind you have a statutory right to return mail order goods within 14 days for a full refund including the delivery cost.

Was that with lightweight cabs? @Graham Milton, in terms of exploring all combinations: do you have long speaker cables to hand, and if so are you able to try your Markbass head with your Trace cabs, and vice versa? I know the combo housing means your current Trace head can't practically be used as a head but perhaps it will suggest if a solution like gafbass02's could work for you.

You're describing a Fender Rumble 500.

Also, the K&K has internal pots for gain. Check what they are set to.

Ideally, the DI level should be independent of your stage volume. Typically, the preamp gain will affect the DI level, but the master volume should not. What Hartke amp do you have? I know for example the LH500 is "missing" a gain control. In that case a pedal like MXR M133 would help.

I've been using one for about nine months, and am happy with it. My regular gig is function band, doubling on acoustic upright and bass guitar. I don't want a large or complicated setup; the less, the better. I can EQ and level-balance both instruments independently. Black channel for bass guitar (semi-para mids + overdrive), white channel for upright (bass, treble, semi-para mids with notch option). I previously used digital tone shaping, but decided I prefer having real knobs. Although I don't really change my settings very often, on the occasions when I do need to, it's very quick and intuitive. I use a small amount of warm overdrive on bass guitar; the MicroBass is pretty good and fine for live gigs, although ultimately I prefer my Mojomojo (but not so much that I bother bringing it to gigs). DI to FOH. Whether I'm on in-ears or have a powered speaker on stage, the MicroBass's volume control doesn't affect the DI level. If on in-ears: there's a built-in headphone amp, and an aux input to mix in a monitor feed. Sturdily built, and the muting tuner works well. If you already have a favourite power supply, one thing to bear in mind is that MicroBass requires 750mA. It's not the cheapest option (I paid £319) but for me it's worth it as I do use all its routing and channel/EQ/DI functionality.