jrixn1

Tagging @stewblack as I believe he has a room full of both older Trace gear and some newer smaller/lightweight stuff?

Depends on your particular situation, but I find it really useful having a volume control which doesn't affect the DI level - I think that is not the case for both the Harley Benton and the Spectradrive. Fwiw I ended up with a Microbass as I need two channels, but it is more expensive.

The topic title "Mark Bass Rig" and the large picture of said rig have put focus on it, with many replies suggesting how to adjust the Mark Bass. However, I think he is no longer interested in keeping that rig. I remember his recent previous topic, https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/419807-lightweight-gear , which provided some answers to the questions people are now asking here. He has been happy for 20 years with his other setup, which is a Status Energy into a Trace stack. I wonder if a better topic question would have been posting the following picture and asking "Which lightweight setup will sound the most like this?"

The SRH500F has 19mm spacing (so unusual for an Ibanez SR). Slightly over budget at £535 currently at bax-shop.

Particularly as you already have your pre-amp and you plan to run flat, an RCF 710-A is cheaper than a One10 and has the power amp built in. https://www.thomann.de/gb/rcf_art_710_a_mk_iv.htm

And just to add, in case anyone new doesn't realize, you need to be logged in to see the 'wanted' sub-forum. Here are the direct links: https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/19-basses-for-sale/ https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/22-items-wanted-no-trades/

Check out the switch options on a G&L L2000 - either stock wiring or some of the popular mods.

Ordered a loom over the weekend and it was with me on Tuesday. He was also happy to provide some wiring advice for my specific situation. Excellent stuff - thanks!

I did the conversion this evening, using a KiOgon loom. https://www.basschat.co.uk/profile/7835-kiogon/ If it helps anyone who wonders about the wiring: It turns out that the larger grey and black wires are in fact two-core screened cable: inside there is a red wire, and white wire, and the shielding. I copied the original Sandberg wiring which is red=signal, and then wired the white and shielding together, which goes to ground. The Sandberg control plate holes were slightly too small, so they needed to be reamed (or perhaps I could have asked if pots with smaller shafts were available). Plugged it in and it sounds good, and I now have a proper tone knob which works across its full rotation.

I remember this 'cab' build from last year: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/381530-pseudo-ampeg-ikea-bass-cab-build/ If you need to support an amp head on an angled cab, you can use one of these: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/braeda-laptop-support-black-60150176/ar

I'd prefer to have the instruction located by the "end repeat" sign, as that is where my eye is at the time I have to make the decision whether to repeat or go on. Otherwise I might have forgotten by now how many times I was meant to play it, etc. Writing "6 times" is probably clear enough, but it is possible someone might think you mean "Repeat 6 times" which, very strictly speaking, means you play it seven times in total. So I'd write "Play 6 times" to make it completely unambiguous.

I've not used one myself but the current Basschat gadget du jour is https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/417800-yamaha-session-cake-headphone-amp-mixer-%C2%A3999/

Could you use the DI output for recording? Would the 500 be that much louder than the 330? Not sure what your setup is, but adding a second speaker cabinet will make things louder (if you're only using one at the moment).

It's commonly misspelled, so try searching for "Squier" as well.

Centre at 20Hz sounds comically low. I suppose it depends how wide it is as well though.

Says 600Hz, assuming the P series has the same "Heritage-3" pre-amp as the V series. https://www.sire-usa.com/f-a-qb/ Search that page for question "Can we have a copy of your preamp manual for the V7 and M7?"

Why do you prefer through-body? Being pragmatic, it sounds like your only option is to string through the bridge.

It was theoretical, having seen a supply like this one, which has 5V, 9V, 12V, and 18V outputs.

Does it depend on the voltage of the pedals? This is what I would do: First calculate the capacity of your battery (capacity = charge X voltage). The charge (in mAh) and voltage (in V) should be written on the back of the battery or in its manual. e.g. capacity = 6600mAh X 3.7V = 24420mWh Then add up the power each pedal uses (power = current X voltage); e.g. pedal 1 is 250mA, 9V: power = 250mA X 9V = 2250mW pedal 2 is 50mA, 18V: power = 50mA X 18V = 900mW Add these together to get the total power: 2250mW + 900mW = 3150mW. Then divide the capacity by the power: e.g. 24420mWh / 3150mW = 7.75 hours Having said that - in my case, I did all the calculations and concluded I would be fine. Nevertheless, my rechargable battery ran out of juice during a gig and I haven't dared use it since.

An active bass or an engaged pedal will provide a buffer. Personally I would look at passive DI box as it's simpler to power, and will eliminate noise.

Move to in-ear monitoring - the ultimate sound quality to size/weight ratio!

The advantages of a passive DI are that it doesn't require a power supply, and there isn't a chance it will introduce noise. However: 1. Is your bass passive? 2. Is your tuner true bypass? 3a. Is your OD true bypass? 3b. If yes, do you ever disengage the OD when playing? If all four answers are 'yes', then your signal is not buffered and you might need an active DI. The reason is that without a buffer, the PA might present too low an impedance to your pickups, resulting in a loss of high-end tone. An active DI would introduce such a buffer. Myself, I gig ampless and currently use a preamp pedal with a built-in (active) DI. Having said that, and reading back what I've written above - there was just the one gig where the sound guy was getting a small amount of noise at his end from my signal; he thought it was some sort of power supply interference, and in the end we just lived with it - but I wonder if I'd had a passive DI box to hand it would have helped? Previous to that setup, I used a passive Radial. I've only read good things about Orchid but aren't they all active with the only power options being phantom or a battery? My concern would be, depending on the venue/desk/sound person's mood, can you guarantee you will always be supplied phantom; and for me at least I'm not powering any pedal with a battery as that's another thing to worry about.

I don't have a horrible sound going through a DI box. Most guitarists I play with go directly to the desk via a Helix (i.e. no mic involved), and they sound great too. Sorry to hear it hasn't worked for you. What is your signal path?