jrixn1

Nice. You could go full minimalist and get rid of the tuner though with the MicroBass 3 😁 Love mine... two instrument channels with EQ and drive; DI output; separate line output for a powered speaker, or use the MicroBass's headphone amp if I'm on in-ears; independent "more bass" volume control. If on in-ears, I can route in a monitor mix from the desk.

I just checked some old invoices and I've always been charged in EUR in the past, so this is good to know. Thanks for posting this!

I wonder if the cheapest way is bank transfer via Transferwise. However, I've not actually tried that myself despite spending £££ at Thomann over the years. Transferwise have a calculator here: https://transferwise.com/widget/calculator. Enter the EUR price as displayed by Thomann into the box called "Recipient gets".

There is a sub-forum for that: https://www.basschat.co.uk/forum/95-share-your-music/

The way I read it is that you can plug any playback device into the aux socket. But then, additionally, if you have iOS device you can also use the same socket for recording.

Yes, it could be this: "Zoom Room software audio processing includes echo cancellation, noise reduction and automatic gain control." https://support.zoom.us/hc/en-us/articles/115004830446-Zoom-Rooms-Software-Audio-Processing So see if it helps to turn off the software audio processing. But you'll each then have to set your input levels manually. Edit: Hmm, this might only apply for "Zoom Rooms". But perhaps there's a similar setting for "normal" Zoom? Better have a recount 😁

Depending what you need it for, would a cab sim perform a similar job, as that might expand your options? Zoom MS-60B is low-cost and Boss-sized, or one of the smaller Mooers (I've not used one myself, just seen them around).

In language you have letters, which are the building blocks of words. Then a level up, words are the building blocks of sentences. Analogously in music, if notes are letters, and chords are words, then the circle of fifths is a very commonly-seen sentence. Suppose you're handed a 32-bar chart in the key of Fm, and the final eight is: If you're reading each chord in isolation, it might seem like an onslaught of unconnected chords, which gets quite fast-moving particularly in the final line - looks like some sharps and flats mixed in together, what's an F# and B doing there if we are in they key of Fm, why is there a B major immediately followed by a B minor, etc? But if you can "see" the circles of fifths, you can more quickly make sense of what's going on at a higher level: an extended turnaround in the key of Ab (bars 25-28) a 2-5-1 in the key of B (bar 29) a 2-5-1 in the key of A (bar 30) a 2-5-1 in the key of Ab (bars 31-32) When I say extended turnaround, I mean 2-5 3-6 2-5-1. That and the simpler 2-5-1 are straight out of the circle of fifths. So what's the point? The advantage is that I'm very familiar with turnarounds; and now that I understand that this section is literally just turnarounds, I can use my usual grooves, fills, licks, substitutions, party pieces, whatever, and I know they'll fit musically, and I'll end up in the right place. You'll encounter the circle of fifths more in jazz or jazz-derived music, and knowing what is going on musically is more useful if you're improvising or have the freedom/desire to vary your part, rather than playing a written or fixed repeated riff. It could be that you just want to add a passing note between the Eb7 and Cm, and knowing whether it should be D or Db. The chart above is 'Street Life', https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnNyxy7XPfs , 1m07s to 1m23s under the verse, and then again in the solos at 3m10s to 3m27s.

Plug your bass into to the "line in" socket of your PC. Better if you go through a pre-amp pedal first. The signal will be a bit noisy.

Really odd! Out of ideas... good luck!

Forget about the interface & laptop for a moment. Plug headphones into the amp's headphone socket - can you hear the chorus & drive?

How are the pedals connected to the amp - going into the instrument input, or in an effects loop? Then what output of the amp are you using to connect to the interface - the only thing I can think of is that it's a "pre-eq" or "pre-loop" output?

From reading https://www.cockos.com/ninjam/ it sounds interesting but also a bit odd - it's not "real time"; instead, when you are recording the current measure, you're actually playing along to the previous measure of all the other musicians. So it might work better for riff-based music, but not sure what happens if e.g. there are many chord changes.

Yep, "traditional jazz" has a specific meaning (Dixie revival) E.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7Xu9blSoEE Ella's song book albums are great, particularly if you want to focus on what the melodies of standards are meant to sound like (and the lyrics, which are important too). The music is orchestrated which allows Ella to shine and to highlight the arrangements and there is often minimal improvisation. E.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kv6IQMBN_qA However my guess is that your context is small-group, straight-ahead standards, i.e. the standard is a vehicle for instrumental improvisation; in which case you are after a different style of jazz. Since I just watched the Miles documentary, you could do worse than the four albums Workin', Relaxin', Cookin', and Steamin' with the Miles Davis Quintet. E.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36wafFjFdYs Also have a look at http://www.jazzstandards.com/compositions/

To clarify, La Bella make both a generic medium-scale set (e.g. 760FL-M), and specifically a Mustang set (760F-MUS). You want the latter. http://www.labella.com/strings/category/medium-scale-4-string-deep-talkin-bass-flat-wounds-bass/ "This particular set is NOT suitable for basses with bridges that require strings to pass through the body of the instrument." http://www.labella.com/products/760f-mus-stainless-steel-flat-wound-30-scale/ "The 760F-MUS set is made specifically for basses with 30" scale where strings are strung through the body."

Bought a pedal and had really quick comms and he sent it out the next day, well packaged and just as described in great condition. Thanks!

I saw some others discussing it quite recently: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/120850-help-needed-the-night-frankie-valli-and-the-four-season/

There are some women on the forum too. I and many others use Zoom B1on. powered by battery, mains, or usb. headphone socket aux in tuner drum machine + millions of effects (all of which can be ignore and bypassed)

This used one (I think it's the original California model) went up for sale just yesterday: http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Sandberg_VM4_Blue_SCA.html

After an eight-month wait, I just picked up one of these (from GAK). Seems nice. The neck is gloss, and not super chunky (front to back). Compared to the original "70s Classic Vibe" series (going on spec here - never owned one myself): the main reason I got it: walnut colour! (previously only available in black) body wood is nato (previously basswood); my cheap digital kitchen scales claim 3.76kg which is nice nut is slightly wider at 1.685" (previously 1.650") I like the new larger "TV" logo no tugbar or bridge cover saddles are no longer brass I think knobs changed from slightly rounder ones to now the proper flat-top ones.

P.S. You can buy fret marker stickers https://www.inlaystickers.com/collections/1-bass

Warwick Rockbass Streamer LX 4, approx £600, flat (20") radius, P-pickup, string spacing adjustable to at least 18mm - and available in white.

Bought from Paul and he sent it out extremely quickly and kept me in the loop at every stage. Many thanks!

When I had a One10 I used a Stagg 14707, which was originally recommended here: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/284370-ncd-barefaced-one10-review Later in the same thread I posted some photos of using Dual Lock to attach the head to the cab: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/284370-ncd-barefaced-one10-review/?do=findComment&comment=3384614

Yes, exactly that. It's split equally because the two cabs have equal impedance. If they had different impedances, it would be split in the respective ratio. E.g. if you had a 4-ohm cab and an 8-ohm cab, the 4-ohm cab would receive 2/3 of the power and the 8-ohm cab would receive 1/3. (But don't combine one 4-ohm cab and one 8-ohm cab with the Peavey MiniMax - this is just an example for the numbers.)