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jrixn1

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Everything posted by jrixn1

  1. I don't know about your main question, but if you bought the pedal on the internet then you have the statutory right to return it within 14 days without giving any reason for a full refund. In addition, the refund should include the original postage costs (i.e. from them to you), and they can't charge a restocking fee. https://help.andertons.co.uk/hc/en-gb/articles/360009225760-How-Do-I-Return-An-Item-
  2. I was in the same position last year - searching for a significantly-lightweight five-string on a modest budget. I didn't find one. In the end I changed approach and sold three of my existing basses to increase my budget, and got a Sandberg SL TT5, which is 7.2lb. I do miss in particular the Yamaha BB735A I sold, but very happy overall that I made the switch. For my musical situation at the end of the day I don't really need a collection of basses - one is enough. and there's nothing I need to do but can't on the Sandberg. Your situation might be different of course.
  3. Will either of these process adversely affect the balance between body and neck - i.e. introduce neck dive?
  4. jrixn1

    Combo help

    Good call on the Markbass Alain Caron. As second choice, I'd be considering a Fender Rumble 500.
  5. Actually they do just that, in the fretboard options - it's called "SH" (short headstock).
  6. There's a four-string 32" Jake on eBay, £850: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Maruszczyk-Instruments-Jake-4p-32-Scale-Bass-w-Soft-Case/174158837257
  7. The thread is a bit confusing. The original poster (rushbo) has the Powerplant Junior (the white one), which is isolated but delivers low current. The solution was to use a current doubler. Then songofthewind joined in with "I have the same problem" but it turns out he has a different problem. He said in post 5 of this thread: "I’ve got the large blue Harley Benton Powerplant" - which has the opposite problem to the Powerplant Junior, namely that although it delivers sufficient current, it is not isolated. The proposed solution is that he switches to a power supply which both (1) delivers enough current; and (2) is isolated - for example, the Fame DC Junior. (He could switch to a Powerplant Junior + doubler cable, but to me that solution only makes sense if you already had the Powerplant Junior in the first place.)
  8. Right, so in summary, your current setup is: Zoom B3n, powered by a Diago power supply. Some other pedals, powered by a Harley Benton Powerplant. This works fine but you'd like to simplify the setup by using one single power supply for all pedals. Unfortunately, when you power everything from the Harley Benton Powerplant, there is a whine. In which case, in MichaelDean and my experience, the Fame DC Junior will power all your pedals without a whine. You won't need a current doubler cable. There is another suggestion which I have heard people talk about but I have not tried myself, and I can't find the link. If I remember correctly, it's some sort of small £10 adapter which goes between the power supply and the pedal, and removes the whine noise. I think @Al Krow tried one out so maybe he knows what I'm on about?
  9. Too much voltage might kill a pedal. but there is not a corresponding "too much current" as the pedal will only draw as much current as it needs. If I understand your scenario, your whine might be caused because you are using multiple pedals but your existing pedal supply is not isolated. The pedals interfere with each other, causing the noise. The Fame DC Junior as linked above is isolated - I have one and it's going well so far. One of my pedals is a Zoom MS-60B and I've had no problems or whine/noise. I use a current doubler for one of my other pedals because it wants 750mA but the Zoom doesn't need one.
  10. There is a chart here. Are they Velvets perhaps? https://www.gollihurmusic.com/faq/57-STRINGS_STRING_IDENTIFICATION_CHART.html
  11. Extension cab with black grille cloth: https://shop.fender.com/en-GB/bass-amplifiers/contemporary-digital/rumble-210-cabinet-blkblk/2380100500.html?rl=en_US
  12. But just to clarify: if the strategy involves potentially buying a second identical cab, and given the amp needs at least a 4-ohm load, then the cabs must be 8 ohms each. So the impedance is important.
  13. The manual provides the definitive advice: https://orangeamps.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Orange-Terror-Bass-500-and-1000-V16.pdf
  14. The original Two10 came in two versions - fixed 4ohm or fixed 12ohm. So if it's an older, non-"S" cab you still need to check which impedance it is.
  15. We met for a lay-by transaction. Good communication beforehand, and then when the time came he was there promptly - actually he was early - and the transaction was problem-free. I was on a dark, unfamiliar road at night and Stew made sure I knew how to continue my onward journey, which I appreciated. Stew is kind, a gentleman, one of the good guys - you can deal with him with confidence.
  16. For quite a while I was powering with no problems a Zoom MS-60B (which is also marked as 500mA) with an Adams Cioks, which only delivers 250mA. http://stinkfoot.se/archives/829 has measured B3 as drawing 143mA so that's consistent with your 120mA not being enough but 240mA being ok.
  17. There are various StingRay models at different price points. This is (I think) a Ray 34. https://intl.sterlingbymusicman.com/pages/ray34 I previously owned a (now discontinued) Ray 34 CA, and it was a good bass.
  18. Why not buy a cheaper bass? But you're not worried that a £1200 Fender Jazz might be damaged or taken?
  19. I looked up my old marketplace adverts: BB735A "my older digital kitchen scales said 4.4kg [9.7lb], and the newer ones said 4.6kg [10.1lb]" BB425X "The bathroom scales weight is 4.7kg (10lb 6oz)." BB404F "Digital bathroom scales weight: 3.2 kg (7.1 lbs)." 😮
  20. I bought the Superlux HD681B back in November after seeing the recommendation in this thread. I wasn't sure whether to go for HD681 or HD681B; I went for HD681B in the end. They were £25 and I use them daily now for practising at home. Really happy with them. Thanks @timhiggins
  21. They rebranded from "Retro One 10" to "One10" but there was no spec change. I found this TalkBass post from 2015 in which Alex Claber says: "we're in the process of rebranding all the Retro cabs because they're more tonally versatile and 'transparent' than the Retro tag suggests."
  22. Edit: now sold Micro Thumpinator from sfx. It's a high-pass filter. The specs are not published but my understanding is that it cuts from approx 30Hz at 24 db/octave. Powered by a normal 9V centre-negative power supply. The manufacturer's website is: http://www.sfxsound.com/microthumpinator/ From the pictures there you can see that they have recently redesigned it. The one I'm selling is their original design. £85 posted within the UK.
  23. If you're handy with a soldering iron, I guess you could re-wire one of your existing cables - disconnect the wire currently connected to ring and move it to tip? This would (I think!) duplicate the working L channel of the amp to both channels of the headphones.
  24. Update: sold now Discontinued Harley Benton BA5110C combo amp. 500W head mounted in a 1x10" cab. The head is removable so it can be used with other cabs. Apparently the head is the same as (or very similar to) the Ibanez Promethean P5100. https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/168416-another-promethean-clone/ I bought it new many years ago and have used it as a back up and for rehearsals, with bass guitar and upright; sometimes as a combo and other times just the head with Gallien Krueger and Barefaced cabs. I've always been happy with the way it sounds. Also it can go pretty loud. Front panel: instrument input, active/passive switch, gain, low, high, boost switch, bright switch, six-band EQ (switchable), colour (switchable), contour (switchable), master volume, mute switch, phones out, and aux in. Back panel: XLR line out with ground lift, tuner out, footswitch input (footswitch not included), and speaker outs (1x Speakon, 1x jack). Includes a little leg which screws vertically into the bottom of the cab enabling it to tilt back. Some fan noise when running. Overall in reasonable condition - a small tear in the fur on the front side. A solid setup really which I've hung onto despite going full FRFR/in-ears a couple of years ago. But now very much surplus to requirements. Approx 12kg, 39cm W x 39cm H x 30cm D. Collection from north London (Woodside Park) or I could drive a short distance to meet. Also, I'm driving to Bristol on 30th/31st December so perhaps could meet there or somewhere along the M4.
  25. Not sure about that. Yes the amp is inherently mono, but the headphone socket will be wired for stereo headphones i.e. with the mono signal duplicated to L and R.
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