jrixn1

We have these (or similar - not sure which brand/model we have) https://www.thomann.de/gb/km_24650.htm

Thanks for the additional info - makes sense. To add to the suggestions, the MXR M81 is a small, well-built, transparent preamp pedal with DI.

Just going back to the original post - what's the reason for not wanting to use your amp's DI?

Why not just use your existing MS-60B, and then only change if after a number of gigs it transpires you are not happy with it. I used a MS-60B with a Behringer DI400P DI box for ages. In the end I was pulled to EBS preamps for their feature set (as I am doubling nearly all the time), but I was never unhappy with the way the Zoom sounded.

You can test your existing cable without a multimeter, if you have any device with a 1/4" headphone output e.g. an interface or hi-fi. Play music through that device and connect it to the Palmer's normal input ("Bass In") using say the red mono jack - then through your headphones you should be able to hear one side (either left or right) of the music. Then switch to the black mono jack, and you should be able to hear the other side. If you are going to replace, I've been using an EBS cable on my pedalboard which has been reliable - EBS ICY-30 (30cm). They also make a ICY-100 which I guess is 100cm.

Yes that it is the correct type of cable (although I've had problems in the past with these cheap cables being DOA - do you have a way to check e.g. a multimeter?). The split mono jacks go in the HX One, not the Palmer. The two options are: red jack into HX One "IN L/MONO" and black jack into HX One "OUT L/MONO" black jack into HX One "IN L/MONO" and red jack into HX One "OUT L/MONO"

Does your cable have a mono or stereo jack at the non-split end? Do you have a link or photo?

Consider 3M Dual Lock low profile. It's more expensive but you don't need much of it at all (1cm² at each corner of a pedal is more than enough), and it holds the pedal considerably more firmly than hook & loop.

What bass do you have and how are you EQing? What sounds good at home doesn't always transfer well to the stage. If for example you are boosting the lows at home, that could cause muddiness and a lack of definition on the gig. I'm playing the same style of music as you on a P bass with flats, although my amp is different to yours. Looking at the BQ250 its EQ points are "Bass" 80Hz, "Lo-Mid" 400Hz, "Hi-Mid" 800Hz, and "Treble" 10kHz. I'd start with the Bass and Treble rolled back a bit, and the Lo-Mid and Hi-Mid at noon.

Which bass do you have? You've written GB35JH, which I think doesn't exist, but you've linked to the GB75JH. So I guess you probably have a GB75JH; but perhaps you have a GB35A which is an older "3" series and does have the "JH" pickup configuration? Cort's webpage for the GB35JJ says 34". If you have the older-series bass, I saw there is GB35J on cashconverters at £150. The scale lengths: GB75JH: 35" GB35JJ: 34" GB35A: 34" GB35J: 34" I don't know if the neck of the older basses (35A and 35J) fits on the bodies of the newer basses (75JH and 35JJ).

Sire's FAQ give a typical weight of 4.67kg for the P8 5-string. But each instrument could be more or less since wood varies in weight from one piece to the next. franzbassist did well to get a lighter one at I guess around 4.3kg before changing the tuners.

2nd gen serial numbers start with '2N'.

I'm probably not a typical user of Slinky Flats... they are too bright for me 😄 My starting point is generally with the tone rolled about halfway down. However the reason I like them for live work is because on those gigs when occasionally everything's sounding a bit muddy for some reason or another, I have the option to get a bit of clarity back. Anyway, if they've mellowed over time, it's less than any other flats I've used.

"the new Flatwound Short Scale bass strings are the first flat that actually feels like a flat and sounds like a round." https://www.ernieball.com/guitar-strings/bass-strings/slinky-flatwound-electric-bass-strings/slinky-flatwound-short-scale-electric-bass-strings I don't have any short scale, but I have the long scale set on my P bass.

The Ampeg Venture 2x10 and 4x10 are lighter than Barefaced.

There are at least two bits of relevant legislation. For distance selling, the Consumer Contracts Regulations 2013, regulation 29(1) allows you to return the item within 14 days, without a reason: "The consumer may cancel a distance or off-premises contract at any time in the cancellation period without giving any reason". The consumer pays the cost of returning the goods - but note in regulation 34(2) that the retailer's refund must include the original outbound delivery cost: "The trader must reimburse any payment for delivery received from the consumer, unless the consumer expressly chose a kind of delivery costing more than the least expensive common and generally acceptable kind of delivery offered by the trader." As for "try before you buy", the consumer is allowed "to establish the nature, characteristics and functioning of the goods", as long as it does not go beyond "the sort of handling that might reasonably be allowed in a shop". So for a bass guitar, you can unpack it and noodle about on it. But you couldn't go and do a gig with it. Separately, whether for distance or in-person selling, the Consumer Rights Act 2015 allows the short-term right to reject goods which are not of satisfactory quality, or unfit for purpose (e.g. faulty goods). The time limit for that is given in section 22(3): "The time limit for exercising the short-term right to reject is the end of 30 days [...]". In addition, the trader must pay for the return of the goods - section 20(8): "the trader must bear any reasonable costs of returning them [the rejected goods]". It's important for both the consumer and retailer to know why you are returning the goods. For example, if the goods arrive faulty but you simply return them as unwanted (under the Consumer Contracts Regulations 2013) or without giving any reason, then when the retailer receives the faulty item back they will likely claim you damaged it and are therefore liable. Finally, a reminder that any retailer's own T&C cannot overrule the above legislations. So if the retailer's website clearly states "No returns" or "10% restocking fee applies", these things are not enforceable since they go against your statutory rights.

Remember to budget for cables. A significant percentage (gonna guess 20%) of your budget is going to be on cables...

And a strip of kitchen sponge under the strings up against the bridge.

The EBS Stanley Clarke has all of those.

@SamIAm Good replies above about what notes to play (fills/runs etc). Also important is having solid timing and note placement. One thing that helps is to record yourself (either live with your group or at home with a backing track) and then listen back with a critical ear. For example with myself, I notice I'm not always as firmly right on the beat as I think I am, and I need to consider my note durations (note was brought off when I should have held it for a bit longer, or vice versa).

One thing to be aware of if you are buying used is that many of the old (5+ years) H1 had a battery drain issue. The current replacement model H1n does not have this problem.

Even simpler: XB Driver > active speaker.

Try using a strip of cork to get a tighter fit.

Have a look at EBS Stanley Clarke pedal or MicroBass 3. They are not cheap - but once you add up the cost of a variable HPF, two EQ pedals, a Boss LS-2, a DI box, etc, it is not unreasonable.