jrixn1

Harley Benton good but Yamaha BB better - perhaps either the current BB234 or a second-hand BB414 or BB424?

Could get advice by posting on https://www.reddit.com/r/LegalAdviceUK/

I basically agree with you - but the counter-argument is that the driver is already making that trip at a cost to himself of (say) 45p per mile, regardless if he gives anyone or no one a lift. The additional cost of giving someone a lift is not that same 45p per mile. I'm in a 10-piece band, so people coming from all over the place, and all with differing pre-/post-gig schedules. Currently, the gig fee is fixed per musician, but then on top the band pay drivers 20p per mile + 5p per passenger per mile. There are still issues or grey areas; e.g. two drivers who could conceivably share a lift but then who both decide to drive themselves (thus costing the band more in expenses paid out).

For four-in, two-out, foot-switchable routing - perhaps a Boss ES-5 or MS-3? Also you could contact http://www.brightonion.co.uk/ for his best (custom-made) suggestion.

I sometimes find Google better at searching than the basschat search particularly if the indexing is down. Was it one of these: https://www.google.com/search?q=Warwick+Streamer+site:basschat.co.uk+marketplace&tbs=qdr:y ?

The mega-thread is here: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/205633-in-ear-monitors-help-needed/ although it's 72 pages now... The experts are there; I'm just a beginner. If I remember correctly Bas, you already have a digital desk? What my band do is provide the XLR cables and Behringer PM1s (about £20), and then asked the individual musicians (and deps) to provide their own earphones. However, the band do also own a couple of Shure SE215 as spares (about £75). Myself personally, I also started with the Shure SE215. I now have the KZ ZS10 (about £35) - as recommended on the above thread. You can of course get into it and spend £hundreds, if not more. I haven't got there yet myself. I found it takes a bit longer to soundcheck at first if not everyone is familiar with the system. But there's no gear to load in or out! The ability to set the volume relatively low and yet hear everything with complete clarity is night and day compared to using monitoring or backline.

In-ear monitors...

For that budget, should your starting point be more RCF 310s? £256 for a mkIII and £300 for a mkIV. RCF is a better product than Alto. You are already familiar with the RCF 310s. You now have instant back-up if there is a problem with your main PA.

If it's that, I've used superglue to address. Use the thin/watery type and it wicks into the gap.

I've seen this recommended to hold the head on a tilted stand, but not tried it myself: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/smart-home/mobile-tablet-accessories/bräda-laptop-support-black-art-60150176/

I use an LS-2 (in "A -> B -> Bypass" mode) to cycle between bass #1, bass #2, and mute. Each bass channel has an LED and a level control. I'm not 100% sure you need the dummy jack... I don't have mine to hand to check right now, but could do at some point later in the week. Update: yes, you need the dummy jack. I use a pancake jack plug (with no cable attached).

Yes, I left my saddles how they came. I couldn't be bothered to experiment with all the different permutations! I assume it's a subtle difference - unless anyone here has experienced otherwise.

Ah yes, it's the "Vintage Plus Bridge" https://uk.yamaha.com/en/products/musical_instruments/guitars_basses/el_basses/bb_2017/700_series.html "Strings can also be set to the tail end of the bridge, which comes equipped with a convertible saddle that can be adjusted to 2 different angles for more precise tonal shaping and feel. The rounder side of the saddle gives a slightly softer sound, while the more angled area produces a slightly tighter one."

Was it the B string? I think that's how it comes stock. The saddles are reversible - I think it's something to do with the string break angle (?).

Any excuse for some https://www.draw.io/

I had a similar issue on another bass caused by the string not sitting fully in the nut, due to the nut not being cut quite correctly.

Love my BB735A! Mainly as a P bass i.e. passive, 100% neck pickup. Occasionally if I need more bite then active, 75% bridge, slightly boosted mids and highs. Strings are Dunlop flats.

The very cheapest option might be taking a line out from the first amp into the aux input of the second amp.

I found better audio quality from a headphone amp like Behringer HA400 (about £20) versus the very cheap passive double adapter type. Another advantage is independent volume controls.

There was a similar discussion a couple of weeks ago Someone did buy the cab at 299 so I guess it's the correct price. https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/338747-tc-cab-deals/

Your preamp's DI is at mic level, so use a mic level input on the QSC. Myself, I use the 1/4" pre-amp output (instrument level). My RCF has mic or line options; I use mic as that's close to instrument level.

Only an upright sounds like an upright... but if you're after suggestions, how about an Ibanez SRH505?

The manufacturer's marketing for my speaker is "frequency response: 50 Hz - 20000 Hz", and I use a 12dB/octave HPF at 60Hz - and I think my low B sounds pretty good!