jrixn1

I've used http://www.jacksinstrumentservices.com/custom-scratchplate-cutting.html

The manual is here: https://www.acousticimg.com/#/support/manuals It gives the definitive answer. (Spoiler: it's ok to operate without a speaker load.)

The word "minor" has two meanings. 1. For intervals: Some intervals (second, third, sixth, and seventh) have a choice of two notes. The lower choice is called "minor" and the higher choice is called "major". 2. For scales: a "minor scale" is referring specifically to the quality of the third. So if the scale contains a minor third, it's a minor scale. If the scale contains a major third, it's a major scale. All regardless of all the other notes in that scale. So, with your example of a natual minor scale: The notes of C natural minor are: C D Eb F G Ab Bb C The intervals are: D : major second Eb: minor third F: perfect fourth G: perfect fifth Ab: minor sixth Bb: minor seventh

A few years old, but the story of the $23.6M Amazon book.

I believe the last number of Trace Elliot cab models indicates the impedance. So a "1048" and "1044" are both 4x10, but the first is 8 ohms and the second is 4 ohms. If your 4x10 is 4 ohms, and the internal speaker is 8 ohms, then the total load would be 2.7 ohms which might be too low for the amp.

Yes, exactly this; i.e. since your Bass Driver pedal is providing all amp and speaker emulation, that you should avoid all further colouration downstream in the signal chain. Taking this to the logical conclusion, you end up with a powered PA speaker (which is nominally perfectly flat), instead of a traditional bass combo or head/cab setup. Check out this thread: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/315455-interesting-frfr-story/

A one-box solution would be anything which has: instrument input DI output with "pre" option (to send bass to PA) line in (to take monitor feed from PA, containing no bass) headphones out volume & EQ controls I believe the Palmer Pocket Bass is one that tick all those boxes. I have not tried it myself but I did some investigating a while back, as I was in a similar situation regarding tweakage of in-ears.

If you have FOH PA and you're on in-ears, what are the two Barefaced doing there?

Sold Brian some cables with quick payment and no issues at all. Thanks!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-Broadbass-BB734A-Electric-Bass-Guitar-Mint-Condition/292857849394 BB734A at £388!

This is correct. One thing to consider is that it might also change the tone (which could be a bad or good thing).

Are you sending two separate signals to FOH (one per instrument), or are you also looking for a pedalboard routing solution to combine the signals yourself and send that one combined signal to FOH? If latter, I was going to recommend a Boss LS-2 as that can cycle over three inputs: upright, electric, and none (as a mute). What's the monitoring situation?

I think at best it would be very similar. Is there something about the stock Ray34CA you're not so happy with?

Anyone tried these 3 Sigma Audio upright IRs:? Or any other upright IRs?

I'm reading the manual again, and another question: I use two basses at gig, but only want to play one at a time, with the other one muted; i.e. set the HX Stomp up as an AB pedal: Physically connect upright bass to Input L, and bass guitar to Input R Upright preset has a 'Split > Y' block with BalanceA panned to L100, followed by a mixer block with B Level set to zero (followed by my upright effects). Bass guitar preset: same, except BalanceA panned to R100 (followed by my bass guitar effects). Will that work? Or will it do something weird like upright only comes out of the L output and bass guitar only comes out of R output?

Not sure if it has a name, but I mute with the side or outside of my thumb, which always rests gently on the lower strings. The photo shows me about to play the G string. The whole hand moves down correspondingly to play the D, and down again to play A; but there is no more movement when I play E. Instead, the thumb just sort of lifts vertically up (perpendicular to the front of the bass) to get out of the way.

Some favourites are Boss LS-2 (three inputs, buffered), Bright Onion (two inputs, passive), or a Radial BigShot or Bumper.

From reading the manual, I believe you would: Press the 'View' button to get into edit mode; Rotate the 'Upper Knob' until the 'send' block is selected; Rotate Knob #1 to adjust the level. It's not as convenient as a single dedicated knob, but for me I think it would be ok (it's not something I'd do very often; but those times when I do, it's important that I can do it reasonably quickly). Can someone confirm if I've got it right?

I'd look at the current Yamaha BB435 (passive) and 735A (active); previous passive Yamaha models including BB1025 BB1025X; used Maruszczyk Jake 5.

Funny... I was about to post the same question! I.e. two outputs, but control the level going to one without affecting the level going to the other. I think 'Send' is unbalanced, so not great for sending to FOH. Instead, I wondered if you'd use 'Output' to go PA, and 'Send' to the FR800? I'm reading the 'Send/Return' part of the manual (page 28) - description of knob 1: "Adjusts the level sent to your external devices."

Radial Bumper or Boss LS-2.

Wired in-ear monitor?

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I think it's every time, not just the first 😬