Silvia Bluejay

Having said that, anything that only uses digital zoom will have to reduce the image quality in order to zoom in. It's only optical zoom that can keep the quality unchanged - up to the limit of the physical zoom lens itself. Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong!

I have the non-4K, older version. I haven't tried the updated Q2n, so I can't comment on that.

Don't think it depends on the camera - the audio output from H1n + camera is of the same, low quality as the camera's own output. Whether it comes from the H1n (which we find to be excellent on its own) or from the camera, it's highly disappointing. The audio mixer output we get, still through the same H1n, is on another level entirely. That's despite us no longer using two separate mics connected to the audio mixer via XLRs (which we used to do, but it was a mega-faff, so we soon abandoned it). This article describes our experience quite accurately, at least as far as the devices we tried are concerned.

No, it doesn't work, the camera's sound card will override the H1n.

In reply to your second question, a DSLR will take very good video, but usually the on-board audio will not be good enough. When I say, in my post above, that the audio of the Zoom Q2n is not as good a most of our other devices, well, the only device that the audio from the Zoom comfortably beats is the DSLR. DSLR audio firmware and sound cards don't appear to be optimised for recording music, even when they have a stereo mic (which most do nowadays). One of our answers to that problem is an expensive solution: a Zoom H1n audio recorder in the flash shoe on top of the DSLR, and a mini audio mixer screwed in under the DSLR. We use THIS audio mixer - other makes and models work just as well. All devices properly connected to each other, and the result is sound and video of very high quality recorded on the DSLR's SD card. Bulky solution, and a bit fiddly, as well as way more expensive than the Zoom Q2n on its own. Another alternative we use is an old, no longer sold Canon Powershot, whose video output is by modern standards rather pitiful, but whose audio firmware/compression algorithm appears to be very, very good, and always makes the band videos sound as good as - and sometimes better than - being in the room during the gig. We choose the best solution according to the type and location of each gig. Our default choice, unless video quality is of paramount importance, is always the old Canon Powershot.

We've got one and don't tend to use it a lot for our gigs, for the following reasons: - If you're using batteries (it takes 2xAA), they don't last for the whole gig. Sometimes they don't last for an entire set either. Even with bona-fide 'good' batteries. - Audio recording isn't particularly good quality, compared to almost all of our other devices (some cheap, some expensive). However, video is excellent, so the mediocre audio isn't a deal breaker. - Its lens is very wide-angle. Excellent for shooting the entire band in a small, enclosed space like a rehearsal room, or a small studio. Useless if the stage is farther away, though, because its digital zoom function decreases the resolution and quality of the video. When we use it for an entire gig, we hook it up to a battery pack with its micro USB port. We've discovered, and overcome, a glitch I'll be happy to describe if you're interested. The device is apparently sensitive to the quality of the MicroSD card you use. The faster the card, the better. The higher its quality, the better.

We now use the Vocal compression on the Behringer XR18, which is A Good Thing, when used sparingly. It will stop excessive peaks, as well as increase audibility when the singer is off-axis or too far from the mic. I prefer it to using that on the Mic Mechanic, but just because I'm in control in case of feedback, not because there's anything wrong with it.

It's also annoying that non-adjustable nuts are glued to the neck, as opposed to being screwed into it. If done in an aesthetically pleasing way, having screws or grubs would make it far easier to replace the nut if it breaks, or if we make a mistake while filing, or if - God forbid - we change strings to a different gauge.

Fie! Fie! Fie! 👿 Just-A-Nut is brilliant. It's the non-adjustable nut that's the stupidest thing I've ever seen in my bass-setting-up life. It's the only aspect I absolutely loathe in my new Ibby. You can make absolutely everything individually higher or lower, but not the nut. Complete idiocy.

Without being able to examine the neck I really can't tell, but I'm sure the tech will notice immediately if the neck (or indeed the fretboard) is misshapen, warped or in any way substandard. Even if the problem isn't easy to spot, the tech will have the appropriate tools to take exact measurements.

In which case you may try lowering the saddle instead, and see how it goes.

I know it's a bit of a palaver, but can you slacken the strings and check that the just-a-nut is not jammed? That's probably unrelated to your fret buzz problem, but worth having a look at while you're at it. The nut should come off if you unscrew the hex grubs.

Assuming the neck/fretboard has no defects, and the frets are properly seated, I'd try adjusting the action in minimal increments on each individual string through moving both the saddles (one by one) and the nut up or down. I assume you've got a Just-A-Nut which allows you to lift one side of the nut higher than the other, if necessary.

I wouldn't recommend it. Seeing how luggage is treated in general, I would be worried even if it was in a flight case. If it's valuable to you, pay extra as hand luggage or, if not allowed more than one item, find a way to put the contents of your hand luggage in the hold and have just the bass as hand luggage. Absolutely don't risk it.

My cheap but very cheerful SR375E. Edit: more pics HERE.

Sorry, even if all this was actually going to happen, I'm not leaving the country right now. Especially to go to Spain - with my luck in travel-related things, we'd be told to quarantine at our return...

The Hotone also has an AUX input and a headphone socket, so it's equally good for silent practice with the PC (after unplugging the cab, obviously).

Only thing I noticed is that the Evah Pirazzi E and A are less middy/trebly than the old roundwound guts. They still sound fine together with the old D and G, but by comparison with the old E and A, they sound darker. That fits in with what also happens with flats v. rounds on bass guitar strings.

Topic merged.

Watch out for the battery delivering the correct voltage AND amperage to drive the Elf properly, and keep an eye on the cab's ohms. @Happy Jack and I are having 'interesting' times trying to use the Hotone Thunder powered by a battery pack, connected to a variety of cabs, as described in this thread which is by no means complete. (More recordings to follow soon.) Moral of the story, many battery packs, especially if small enough to fit on/under a pedalboard, aren't man enough, despite having the correct(-ish) specs on paper.

And longer wavelengths such as bass frequencies are best appreciated at a distance anyway.

It may not need replacing - you may have an inherently 'noisy' power ring in that part of the house, which a different power supply for the BB won't be able to improve. However, if you do replace it, let us know if it makes a difference.

In reply to your question re. the power supply, yes, that's how mine looks too. Regarding the hum, mine makes all sorts of hums and noises, but so far I've always blamed the fact that it's connected to a PC, and it really makes no difference how far from the PC I move the BB, since the AUX cable still connects the two devices. The variety of hums and whirrs seems to depend on a lot of factors: the PC screen, my radio mouse, the PJB headphones, all of their wires functioning as antennas, and the bass guitar and its lead adding their own earthing/screening problems. I can't remember whether it was less noisy when I first got it (it's on permanent loan from hubby). Curious to hear if others have the same.

The tritone being a case in point, and yes, I'm a metal fan.

And yet, its relative Dmin is a common disco key, lots of fun to play IMO...