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Everything posted by Silvia Bluejay
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Fret buzz at lower AND upper frets simultaneously
Silvia Bluejay replied to Heimrich's topic in Repairs and Technical
It's also annoying that non-adjustable nuts are glued to the neck, as opposed to being screwed into it. If done in an aesthetically pleasing way, having screws or grubs would make it far easier to replace the nut if it breaks, or if we make a mistake while filing, or if - God forbid - we change strings to a different gauge. -
Fret buzz at lower AND upper frets simultaneously
Silvia Bluejay replied to Heimrich's topic in Repairs and Technical
Fie! Fie! Fie! 👿 Just-A-Nut is brilliant. It's the non-adjustable nut that's the stupidest thing I've ever seen in my bass-setting-up life. It's the only aspect I absolutely loathe in my new Ibby. You can make absolutely everything individually higher or lower, but not the nut. Complete idiocy. -
Fret buzz at lower AND upper frets simultaneously
Silvia Bluejay replied to Heimrich's topic in Repairs and Technical
Without being able to examine the neck I really can't tell, but I'm sure the tech will notice immediately if the neck (or indeed the fretboard) is misshapen, warped or in any way substandard. Even if the problem isn't easy to spot, the tech will have the appropriate tools to take exact measurements. -
Fret buzz at lower AND upper frets simultaneously
Silvia Bluejay replied to Heimrich's topic in Repairs and Technical
In which case you may try lowering the saddle instead, and see how it goes. -
Fret buzz at lower AND upper frets simultaneously
Silvia Bluejay replied to Heimrich's topic in Repairs and Technical
I know it's a bit of a palaver, but can you slacken the strings and check that the just-a-nut is not jammed? That's probably unrelated to your fret buzz problem, but worth having a look at while you're at it. The nut should come off if you unscrew the hex grubs. -
Fret buzz at lower AND upper frets simultaneously
Silvia Bluejay replied to Heimrich's topic in Repairs and Technical
Assuming the neck/fretboard has no defects, and the frets are properly seated, I'd try adjusting the action in minimal increments on each individual string through moving both the saddles (one by one) and the nut up or down. I assume you've got a Just-A-Nut which allows you to lift one side of the nut higher than the other, if necessary. -
I wouldn't recommend it. Seeing how luggage is treated in general, I would be worried even if it was in a flight case. If it's valuable to you, pay extra as hand luggage or, if not allowed more than one item, find a way to put the contents of your hand luggage in the hold and have just the bass as hand luggage. Absolutely don't risk it.
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My cheap but very cheerful SR375E. Edit: more pics HERE.
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Sorry, even if all this was actually going to happen, I'm not leaving the country right now. Especially to go to Spain - with my luck in travel-related things, we'd be told to quarantine at our return...
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The Hotone also has an AUX input and a headphone socket, so it's equally good for silent practice with the PC (after unplugging the cab, obviously).
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Only thing I noticed is that the Evah Pirazzi E and A are less middy/trebly than the old roundwound guts. They still sound fine together with the old D and G, but by comparison with the old E and A, they sound darker. That fits in with what also happens with flats v. rounds on bass guitar strings.
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Topic merged.
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Watch out for the battery delivering the correct voltage AND amperage to drive the Elf properly, and keep an eye on the cab's ohms. @Happy Jack and I are having 'interesting' times trying to use the Hotone Thunder powered by a battery pack, connected to a variety of cabs, as described in this thread which is by no means complete. (More recordings to follow soon.) Moral of the story, many battery packs, especially if small enough to fit on/under a pedalboard, aren't man enough, despite having the correct(-ish) specs on paper.
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And longer wavelengths such as bass frequencies are best appreciated at a distance anyway.
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It may not need replacing - you may have an inherently 'noisy' power ring in that part of the house, which a different power supply for the BB won't be able to improve. However, if you do replace it, let us know if it makes a difference.
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In reply to your question re. the power supply, yes, that's how mine looks too. Regarding the hum, mine makes all sorts of hums and noises, but so far I've always blamed the fact that it's connected to a PC, and it really makes no difference how far from the PC I move the BB, since the AUX cable still connects the two devices. The variety of hums and whirrs seems to depend on a lot of factors: the PC screen, my radio mouse, the PJB headphones, all of their wires functioning as antennas, and the bass guitar and its lead adding their own earthing/screening problems. I can't remember whether it was less noisy when I first got it (it's on permanent loan from hubby). Curious to hear if others have the same.
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Do different keys really have different characteristics
Silvia Bluejay replied to Nail Soup's topic in General Discussion
The tritone being a case in point, and yes, I'm a metal fan. -
Do different keys really have different characteristics
Silvia Bluejay replied to Nail Soup's topic in General Discussion
And yet, its relative Dmin is a common disco key, lots of fun to play IMO... -
Do different keys really have different characteristics
Silvia Bluejay replied to Nail Soup's topic in General Discussion
Blimey, yes I know it's got a ridiculous number of flats in its signature, but maybe the above is a slight exaggeration? I do get the equal temperament argument, but I think what each key conveys now and used to convey before equal temperament is a product of tradition more than actual fact. Think about, say, the Middle Ages - if it became customary for composers of religious hymns to use a certain key to express a certain feeling, that choice would have been influential on music outside the church too; minstrels would have deliberately used a different key in their song to express a different feeling. And so on. -
Apologies for the glitchy/noisy zooming in and out - DSLRs don't like having that done while they're recording video.
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Is it not so much the specs, but the way the drivers deal with them? I seem to remember noticing that on PA speakers highs and mids are usually somehow 'favoured' over lows, even if the specs say that the delivered range starts at, for instance, 45 or 50 Hz. So if you use one for just bass, it doesn't sound as good as a 'proper' bass speaker, even when the cone is the same size. That's why it makes a difference when a (sub)woofer is added to the PA system, in those cases where the bass doesn't have its own rig. Looking forward to hearing the experts, of course.
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I think it may have cost even less at the time!
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I've got a couple of those clip-on phone lenses and I must say, my 12-year old, 10MP-or-so very mini, compact Canon with 6x optical zoom still knocks the spots off anything coming from a phone plus one of those thingies.
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The luxury version of the above appears on this thread by @Happy Jack.
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I want to play too! D'Addario Chromes,