BassBod

[attachment=20964:DSCN0760.JPG][attachment=20963:DSCN0764.JPG] Do it - you'll have a great time, and a good bass - BB

Ooooo thats looks good, and you're only a short hop up the A46 from here! BB

I realised a few months ago that, of the couple of students I teach, most of the "bad posture" points go to owners of smaller, more "ergonomic" basses? Those with more traditional P and J basses actually have to work that bit harder and seem to get in better habits quicker! Now, I'm not a "fender was right" believer in general - neck heavy basses are a pain, so are over-heavy ones.....I like headless...but I was surprised by my own observation.

He's always used one - just a bit more subtle than most of us!

I think it refers to the velcro strap that holds the guitar neck in the bag until you undo it. This works until the stitching comes undone, and the velcro remains happily stuck together...leaving your bass unsaved. Sorry if that sounds a bit cynical...but the W bags are a good design, but the poor density of the foam padding and the stitching quality let them down for me. They're not very expensive, but I'd pay a few quid more if they were more robust. The levy's are much better (but more ££) and the Harvest Leather ones from Overwater are the best I've seen or used (but £120!) BB

Mine's a Goliath II, so that must be a Goliath (I?)......

[attachment=20215:DSCN0567.JPG] Well, I couldn't find any good pics, but here's mine...only goes out for longer trips cause its so heavy.....too much for most local stuff.

My old WT300 went into thermal shutdown whenever I ran into 4ohms. Overheated (with fan) on any gig with a noisy drummer, but was generally fine into 8ohms. I recall something about the fan working better if it was sucking rather than blowing...but I never got it sorted 100%. I think (like the similar SWR's) they run hot by design and you've just got to be a bit careful about pushing them too much. All that said, I'd get yours to a good tech to check the fan/switch etc as I would only expect it to shutdown in pretty extreme circumstances, and should reset after a few mins.

I love a lot of the earlier stuff, and even enjoy some of the later rough gig recordings, but generally I avoid it these days. Just feels like a loss of talent and imagination I don't want to be reminded of. Having said that I think its hard to imagine now what a huge impact he had twenty odd years ago - none of the Youtube clips in the world are going to help younger people understand just how different and impressive he was in his own time.

Yes, they do calm down after a day or two. I found you need to raise your action a lot and play softly to get the best out of them. They are also pretty much useless for true acoustic playing - I understand they were designed for Rick Turner's "amplicoustic" guitars to produce an acoustic sound when amplified...if that makes sense?

I may be able to find out (a friend used to play with him in JM's band) but I'd guess its a custom neck on a Jbass, with DiMarzio J's. Always sounded like there's a coating on the fingerboard......

Yes - Alembic preamp and MacIntosh power amps - sounds familiar, somehow? Wouldn't carry that round myself though...could be a little bit heavy.

Just be sure you like the strings, and then know exactly what the "deal" is....then no one gets upset. Companies can be surprisingly vague when you ask them how they expect you to help them. Some use a third party to run the deal and supply you...make sure you know who does what.

Thanks for the EMG comments - love the sound of single coils but the hum can be a pain sometimes. Good to know what options there are.

Really nice...and I'm not usually keen on sixes. Two questions - does the 33" make much difference to the feel/ how do the EMG JV's work for trad Jbass tone?

Any light coloured wood veneer, but I have heard of people using plastic strips (ice cream carton to be exact!). A hard coating (epoxy, poly or superglue) will give more of a "jaco" tone and prevent damage from roundwound strings, but you lose some of the woodiness. If you use wood veneer the only thing that can go wrong is splitting the veneer along the grain, so it ends up below the fingerboard surface - use a really sharp knife when you trim it downbefore sanding flat.

Sounds silly, but are the pin connectors reversed or damaged? There isn't much you can do to an EMG to kill it..so I can't think of anything else. I'd expect a faulty one to be completely dead. good luck - and tell us what the answer turns out to be?

I played on for ten mins in a shop - the body digs into your chest, but otherwise it was pretty good feeling and pretty light. I had an inkling you could get used to the body shape and even get comfortable if you played it for a while? Sound was ok, but hard to judge even in a quiet shop...but I liked it straight away. From what I saw on the interweb the current basses have little in common with the ones they made a few years ago. Seems like a waste of a lot of design work to me?

I suspect your bass isn't oil finished, but has a thin coating of something that would stop beeswax from working its way into the wood? I could be wrong....

I've got a circuit drawing, but not sure if its the version with the ECI (earth continuity indicator?) I wouldn't use it until fixed?? Shoud be in your email in a few mins....

I'd go for epoxy - glue the buggers in.

Looks like Mark IV to me, mid eighties? I've got the GP11 preamp - very nice, if a touch hissy by modern standards and a very good all-rounder.

I used one of those on a Kramer (years and years ago!) good pickups - but not as cool as a Dark Star....with TI flats....

Look up Mo Clifton (cliftonbasses.co.uk) based in Blackheath?

About time.....90lb 4x10's aren't fun to work with, even if they sound great.