BassBod

Mine used to fit in a standard Hiscox - not the long version (but that would have a bit of room to spare). Not cheap, but very good protection. I also had a Levy's canvas type bag that was a good fit ( the one the Gallery show on their site for £40? but I didn't pay anything like that much..)

I had the AH150 (series 6?) head years ago and it developed a bad but hard to find hum after two or three years. Trace took it back and fixed for nothing (including carrier) because they knew what the fault was - the plastic connector block between the pre/power amp shrunk with heat/age and pulled the wires a bit. I never looked inside, but that was what they told me, and I never had a problem with it again (another two years before I went SWR). Sounds like a tech job - good luck!

Looks great! One quick warning - I've been using one of those Sadowsky cases. A great light case, but mine has a screw/pin or something sharp down in the corner/jacksocket area. You can't see it but its scratched up two of my basses recently, until I worked out what it was and stuck some extra velcro over it....looked like woodworm damage!

I am a very happy EA500 user, and a former EdenWT300 user. Can't speak for the current WT550 version, but my 300 would go into thermal shutdown very quickly when given a 4ohm load. Also it does always sound "warm/dark" or whatever you choose to call it. The EA500 has lots of power, the eq isn't as complicated as it looks and generally feels like a real improvement to me. I find it a lot easier to have a clean sound I can warm up with eq settings. The other thing that always niggled me with the WT300 was the valve thing - I could never hear any difference If I changed the valve. With other amps (SWR, Alembic) I can hear some change. Nothing you'd notice in a gig setting, but a slight character change. I couldn't help thinking it was there for marketing rather than its contribution to the sound of the amp.

Well, there's three or four of us customers in this discussion (and many more viewers) who will think again before buying from Overwater - you couldn't ask for more direct feedback than that. I'm sure Status or any other supplier would produce 36" sets if they had enough interest. Mo Clifton used to supply Picato strings (they were ok, also used by Wal) and there are others. I tried some Mansons recently that were cheap and good...

Sad to read this - I've always found them to be pretty together. I noticed their website/ordering has been down for a while, I guess they're changing things around? Still no excuse for crap service - did you talk to Chris May?

Magnetic pickups can be good in really loud situations, but to me they just sound too much like a bass guitar. I've used a Kent Armstrong and tried a Schaller (mounting was terrible...rattled very badly) neither was the sound I wanted. Watch out for phase issues if you're mixing pickups - if they cancel each other out rather than reinforce, you've got a problem Good luck!

I think they've always been made by Picato. I've used them with a mag pickup, no problem (except I don't like mag pickups). BB

Second vote for Saitenkatalog - they used to be fair bit cheaper (£17 a set) and I've found their service to be very good. Pickup some Thomastik superalloys while you're at it - my second fav string, like a cross between a DR Sunbeam and a Roto...

Have a look at Bob Gollihur's site - he's selling a new(ish) mic holder/bracket that allows you to use any mike (?) without damage to your bass. Again n good for loud situations, but doesn't tie you to a particular microphone. I'm sure there's also plenty of discussion on Talkbass...

Again - PM me if you're interested in some lessons...happy to teach here at mine (but usually teach in a College)... BB

From memory its a standard Switchcraft stereo jack socket, that screws into the housing - look them up on WD or Allparts?

Radial is the safest bet - I use one with a very "hot" Alembic preamp with no problems at all. The Orchid is also excellent (and much better value). I've used mine with active basses, no problem (my old one had two inputs, one lower level labelled "line"). John at Orchid is a very helpful chap - give him a call or email and I'm sure he can give you some advice.

Nice stuff - never tried a Smith, but they always look great (and unusual). As for the cabs, it all depends on the room/stage - I don't think there's a definative answer.

Give it a few weeks, get more comfortable and see which you play more. After about ten years, I'm pretty happy with either, but if I'm honest I still "think 4". I play 5 for projects where I can hear a use for the low notes, but otherwise I stay with a 4. I think its worth putting any decisions off for a year or two......

Well, as you're off track.....I'll agree with Alex completely on this one, with an example. The Euphonic Audio 1x10 combo - sounded good, but wasn't very loud and weighed a ton (pushing 50lbs?). I use the EA500 head (13lbs, but feels lighter in its snug little bag) and the equivalent cab (32lbs ish). I'm sure the sound is pretty much the same..but it feels so much easier...and sometimes carrying an extra cab doesn't feel like a chore (as it does with a combo).

One thing I forgot to mention - I'd suggest going for a minimal thin oil finish (one or two diluted coats and two or three oil). That way way you can play the bass, keep it in good shape etc but its still easy to strip back if you later want to give it a proper spray job.

Depends how nice the wood is - some alder is really very boring to look at! The basic process is very fine sand paper (with block) to make sure fine scratches and bumps are gone, then rough steel wool (or plastic) then finest - follow the instructions on the bottle for the oil. Its usually apply a coat or two of thinned oil, then rub dry about ten mins later (to stop it sealing the surface) then as many coats of oil as you can over a few days, then a coat or two of beeswax about a week later. My preference is to use tung oil - it seems to be less coloured than some, and has less nasty things added. I also like Warwick's expensive wax, as it doesn't build quickly into a glossy shine but builds up more gradually. Good luck

Current ones have multi-tap transformers - rewiring instructions are on their website/forum somewhere. I've got a very old (blue case, red knobs) one they sold me a new transformer, with instructions. Nice people to deal with, but better on the phone than by email. The F2B is really built to last - as long as you can deal with the passive eq, it will be a keeper...but get a good passive Di as well (its a bit short on features like that).

Thanks Alex - great discussion. Can't wait to see what you come up with.....

Its worth talking about "lows" with double bass amplification. Piezo's (used by most) produce a lot of very low stuff, (more than you'd ever hear acoustically) and can be a real problem even though you can't hear it directly. I've seen the cone on my CXL110 jump just from damping the strings! So if you are looking to reproduce the acoustic sound its worth thinking about? The low cut (or high pass?) filter on the Acoustic Image preamp works, but it seems a bit crude to me? I guess it really designed with the combo "downward" speaker design in mind.

I really should've bought that Larkin.....oh well. Nice 'Wicks.

So, was I just being a fussy git about the hum? BB

I'd say amp - you also get the benefit of a better DI. Lighter good cabs are now on the used market, so take your time and there will be more choice.