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BassBod

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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. I find two EA CXL110s or one CXL112 go about as loud as I'd ever want on stage, with acoustic or EUB. The audience is far better off hearing the bass through the PA if that much level is needed. The CXL112 is the best all round cab I've used or even heard for bass guitar or double - but at 44 lbs or so its too much for a lot of small pubs and clubs. I guess my ideal cab would be something very similar to the CXL112, but ever so slightly smaller, about 10 lbs lighter and with a waxed plywood look like the Bag End. and I'd want two, for louder situations. How's that for a spec?
  2. Hi Timo, I got most of my stuff here (including the GK) - much better value secondhand. Keep an eye open on the for sales pages...
  3. They vary a bit - the roto ones sound like old crap flats, but the La Bella's are much more focussed and lively (if heavy guage). The Status ones are also pretty alive and very flexy for a standard guage set (like the Thomastik flats).
  4. I'm using a few options for both EUB and acoustic. Most used (lazy option) is GKMB150 - no real lows, but does a good impression of a great amp - and so easy to cart around and set up. For more critical situatons, one or two EA CXL110's with either iamp500 or Acoustic Image Clarus. Better sound, but more weight and set up time. For recording its the Alembic F2B, or "good" DI plus a mike on the acoustic. Situations vary from small virtually acoustic, no drums, through to festival stages with noisy drummers. I like to go without backline when possible, but usually carry the GK as insurance. There are a lot of situations where ease of use is more important than sound quality - even the EUB is relatively large and heavy, and I normally drive/ shift my own gear. Maybe I should care more...but a lot of the time its about getting the job done with minimal hassle.
  5. I'll be there, even though I normally drive straight past Bridgewater, and do everything possible to avoid Taunton....
  6. I live in Bristol, but I'd recommend a trip to Mansons in Exeter - not the cheapest, but the best range you'll find and the staff are very professional. I'd also steer them towards secondhand basses everytime - older Arias, Westones Yamaha etc
  7. I remember a Japanese version - early 90's? - very nice, and also a much nicer "yellow" than the current version. I thought it was a slab body though?
  8. It would work fine, but think about casing the power amp seperatley - so you can use it as an add on without having to re-jig everything. The only potential problem is earth/ground loops, with a few mains powered items in contact through the rack rails, but I've never seen this with Trace stuff (it usually seems to be American stuff that suffers from this?).
  9. Just use a small wad of the finest grade steel wool. That should get rid of most light marks, then a drop or three of you choice of oil (I use almond oil). Only precaution is to put masking tape completely over the pickups first, so that steel dust doesn't get into them.
  10. I know that feeling - I saw a reformed version of Brand X in Bristol about ten years ago! Percy didn't sound like Percy...and the guitarist was unbelievabley loud and generally off his nut....interesting, but not a great night. Did see a healthy contingent of Bristol's bassists, lurking in the shadows.
  11. I've got a K&M one which hangs by the headstock (no direct body supports) - works with a J really well.
  12. If I had to choose between an Alembic F1X and the GP11....the Alembic would win, no contest.
  13. For local stuff, it can vary a lot but somewhere between £50 - £150. It all depends how long it takes, and the overall budget/profile of the project. I'd expect considerably more for a "name". On the other side, one of my projects recently used a very well respected US player for a few tracks - something like £300 in total, using paypal. I was surprised he agreed to do it for so little, but I guess it didn't take him too long!
  14. As I've said before, I've owned two over the years, and passed them on each time. Mainly due to weight and (lack of) balance. However, I still rate them highly in terms of originality and construction - and they were always a pleasure to deal with. I've never played any of the more developed versions with extended top horns and lighter tuners, but I guess I would be more comfortable with these. I've heard other people sound great on them....but not for me.
  15. Solid state - got one here. Pretty warm, very flexible...bit hissy by modern standards..just don't use the pre-shape. Mine is a two rack-unit case, but the mounting holes don't line up so it only fits in a three space rack case. No idea why, but something to check out?
  16. That sounds like normal Jbass hum to me - and it can be pretty loud, depending on what you are standing near. In a critical gig situation I adjust the volumes down as a song begins - this has become a habit. I even do it when I'm playing other basses that don't hum!
  17. EMGs with the tone down about half way- always sounds good to me, even on my cheapy de-fretted J bass.
  18. Sounds like its the single coil hum you're hearing (direct from the pickup) rather than a sheilding problem. The only solution is a hum cancelling version of a J pickup - there are a few currently made, most of which claim to retain the "single coil sound" - but I've never tried any. Thought about it, but never had the funds/time/inclination. The DiMarzio model J is a humbucker, and is dead quiet when soloed, but hasn't got the real single coil top end - haven't heard one for a few years, but I always liked them. Good luck BB
  19. I might have to.....
  20. OK, first thoughts. The Fishman Model B is a good unit, does the impedance buffer thing, has a nicely voiced eq circuit - should enhance your sound. Might not add huge amounts of gain - that's not really what it was designed for. I've used the Fishman BP100 for years - one reason is its superglued to my bridge. That made a huge improvement to its sound - the clips work, but the fit is really critical, and in my experience it always moved around a bit, and that always changed the sound. Mo Clifton glued it on ten years ago, and its still there, and sounds the same. For fitting pickups in the wings (like the Underwood?) its normal to use veneer, glued to the right sort of thickness, or sometimes cork, or shims of maple. Again the fit is critical - too tight and you can ruin the elements, not tight enough and you won't get a good or consistent sound. String noise - my old Fishman pickup has loads of it. Obtrusive on its own, but tends to disappear when playing in a band context, and with (quite) a bit of treble reduction. I think its pretty normal for any pickup that resides at the top of the bridge?? I think my advice would be a visit to a really experienced luthier (someone that fits lots of pickups) or go for another design of pickup - the Realist is pretty easy to fit, and you could never complain of finger noise....you might even miss it. best of luck BB
  21. Not much help...but I looked a year or two ago and couldn't find an active one. There are different organisations behind the current Steinberger "uprights" etc and the Gibson products. That site looked expensive to me! There is a lovely example of the original XL for sale here...I would've bought it in a second if I had the money! Good luck BB
  22. Well, I've used loads...including the Baggs (but not the current Fishman). Good things about the Baggs = strong output, good control over input gain, runs on phantom, has a permanent "low cut" which doesn't seem to mess with your sound but helps with "rumble". Bad points = hard to use a tuner send cable (it needs a return as well, one of those Y patch cables) can be too high output for the PA, the eq isn't really designed for bass, more acoustic guitar. A lot of the variable eq is well above a useful range. I used to use the old Fishman preamp, but that had no DI. It always sounded good, but that was ten years ago..... To be honest, any good quality active preamp/DI will help with most pickups, its a question of which features are useful to you. Most of the time I use a "flat" active DI made by Orchid - the most useful feature is the mute footswitch so I can turn off!
  23. Same experience with a SS1 and Thomastick flats - a very good "old style" sound, but may need a tweak or two (not difficult on a Warwick).
  24. Sorry not to make contact with anyone this time...had to dash home for babysitters...but hats and Tshirts make spotting BCers much easier. Was great to see a real pro, Fodera and all, resorting to gaffa tape. I really liked the way he used effects - pretty subtle compared to most, and even the synth wasn't overused. A great night out....I needed it! BB
  25. Well...I really enjoyed it. Don't get out much (except when "working") so it was a real treat. I'm sure that was Rich in the SWR Tshirt....
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