BassBod

Congratulations - bet you're hooked now.....it's gonna hurt.......but you'll be smiling BB

I bought some replacement mains leads (kettle plug to Euro plug) from Studio Spares - only cost a few quid, and they're a decent length. I don't like the travel adapters, they seem a bit feeble, and I want to know the ground is properly connected..... BB

I did a "repair" on one of these a few years ago (plastic wiring) because the factory wiring (black and white same on both volume pots) put the J out of phase with the P. When you turned both volumes up full the sound was very thin and useless (swap one set of wires around and it was fine). Look for broken solder joints first, either on pots or the pickups' hook up wires....

Various Sansamps (if you like them...) always work for me, if you're careful with the blend control...or the Aguilar 924, which is similar to the old Sadowsky, or the Award Session JD10. This is a bit of an unusual one, but its a "fender" style tone section, with a speaker simulator - very good for the money. I had one of Stewart Wards earlier/simpler "matchbox" DI's and it was great - that's the box that got me into using external preamps and DI with combos. One warning note - I've found that some preamp/DIs don't mix very well with high output active basses (unless you can turn down the output internally). I guess the deciding factor is how much "character" you want from the preamp? Good luck - sounds like a good project

My old Carlbro "cobra" was terrible - the power light would go dim if I hit a loud note...not good. The one that surprised me was the Peavey Combo 300 (or somethng like that). I almost bought one...even had a built in chorus. BB

The Award-Session JD10 is a good preamp/DI box - very "old fashioned" in that it uses circuit design to get the sound rather than clever digi stuff. Pretty much simulates a "fender" pre-amp (just like the Alembic preamps, but no valves...runs on a battery). Worth thinking about BB

I've had good luck (?) with a couple of Brandoni jazz necks, both plain and varnished. The seem to be identical to 80s Jap Squier/Tokai? You may have to do a slight fret level/polish, and as always neck pocket fit is never completley predictable....you have to take a chance. If you buy an unfinished neck its pretty easy to sand a thinner profile, but you've got to remember there is a truss rod trapped inside, just waiting to pop out! BB

I tried loads (bronze, nickel and those Acoustic Thomastiks) and ended up with Thomastik flats. Less acoustic volume, but a great warm amplified sound. I'd also suggest some black plastic flats but don't go for any heavy guage/high tension ones as they could put a strain on the top of your bass...

I recall an article years ago (Bass Player?) where Roger Sadowsky talked about "waterproofing" basses for Metallica - even putting them in the bath to test!! I think it was all about sealing the scratchplate and pots with silicone stuff....nice, eh? BB

Try doing it up slightly, just before you undo it? When you get the top off watch out for the cable connected to the fan.... BB

From memory, this is a potential problem for some older amps (like my SWR220) but much less likely to cause a problem on anything designed in the last ten years or so (since phantom power has become commonplace). I run a passive transformer DI from a jack output, and connect that to the PA, which blocks it completely. Also has the advantage of never overloading, which seems to happen with a lot of active DIs when you connect a line level amp output. BB

Try Wizard?? I thought the DM's were already potted in something gooey...even stuck into their cases? I don't think wax potting is something to try at home, as it can catch fire if you don't/can't control the temperature carefully.

Euphonic Audio CXL112 - you get what you put into it, I think there are currently some for sale on this very site..... BB

The best strings I've used for fretless are DR Sunbeams - nickel rounds, but a bit less tension than most. They seem to be pretty gentle, and sound fantastic but in my experience fingerboard wear has a lot to do with how you play. Some people have a lighter touch, some just hammer it down. The wear needs to be bad before it starts to mess up your sound, so I'd go for the sound you want first and deal with the wear later. Depends on the thickness of the board, but you can get it "dressed" a number of times before you run out of wood, and then you can still replace it. Superglue can be used, but very thinly, to give a protective matt finish that doesn't change the sound as much as a full glossy coat. Its a pain to do, but works well. The other thing to try is black plastic coated flatwounds. The ones sold by Status sound wonderful...not a full Jaco sound, but a bit of Ron Carter?? BB

With a good preamp (LR Baggs) I can get a decent tone out of the BP100 on my Clifton EUB - but that's already going into an active onboard Bartolini circuit for buffering. Take some of the upper mids and scratchy top away and you're left with a good sound. However, the Realist sounds "better" even if its plugged straight into an amp - much darker with a good thump. Sending a mic to the house and using the pickup mainly for stage monitoring is the best option - but not much use on my EUB! BB

Always liked the Alien look, but never seen a real one. For the money it would be better if it had some solid wood instead of all laminate, but I guess its also a bit more durable. Not a fan of Fishman on-board electronics either, but again custom stuff is expensive. Would love to try one....but doubt if I'd ever buy.

I bought one of the Harvest Leather (canvas) ones from Overwater last year - it still looks brand new! Best bag I've seen, and much better than the Warwick ones - but it does cost.

Look out for a used Euphonc Audio 1x12 - the best all rounder I've ever heard. A bit "clean" when you first try it, but mine is great (on every gig, and that's rare).

I seriously thought about getting one a year or two ago, but to be honest I chickened out. Its a lot of dosh (to me) and I read a fair bit of grumbles on the interweb about pickup and electronic problems and long long delivery times. Now, I never got in touch with them, or their UK distribution so this was pure interweb hearsay - but it was enough to put me off. I know they get good reviews, but what doesn't!? I'm even poorer now...but I still wonder if its the perfect all-rounder for a lot of my gigs! BB

From my experiences here, people are much better informed/realistic about value - yes, there are some "traders", but most are real enthusiasts looking to change stuff they don't use for stuff (they think) they will. Far less hassle then certain popular auction sites...but use the feedback. It is our only defense against scammers/idiots. For the record, I've sold a JD, Manson, bitser J, traded a Streamer SI, fretless Fender, and bought an Alembic, and a few more I can't remember now with no regrets. If I'd could have found those deals in shops (no chance here) it would have cost me a fortune.

My Clifton shortscale is all cherry - English body and american neck. Nice wood, the English seems like alder, but with more interesting grain. The american cherry is denser, with a darker reddish colour, but has resin pockets that can pop up when you start carving it. Look at Mo Clifton's site (www.cliftonbasses) for more info... BB

Mansons - the shop has its own repair shop, or Hugh if he's around or even Andy?? There's also a guitar making school in Totnes, and Chris Eccleshall is somewhere thereabouts.