BassBod

Very nice....there is something about a good Jbass. I must be getting old though - I can't imagine that little amp pushing two 4x10's. Just don't seem right Nice one BB

Generally, K&M from Germany - best I've found for all types of stands. Look at Studiospares or Thomann, as prices can vary a bit. BB

With EMG's I'd also suggest a passive tone, just to give you a more traditional option?? I never use the vol on a P but I do use the passive tone more than on any other bass. BB

I'd say contact the makers first - I'd be surprised if it wasn't a re-wirable tranformer. If it is....find another tech. BB

'Twas me that did the build the bass in a week - search the nether regions of the porn pages and you should find it - or pm me with any questions?? BB

I used to sometimes use a Beyer S250 (made by Trantec?). Worked fine, transmitter fixed onto the strings blow the bridge. Like most of the older ones it got through batteries like a thing that eats batteries...... BB

The low tension is something a lot of people can't get on with - but I love it. I put them on a particular bass (usually P style) and set it up for them with a slightly higher action. Years ago I tried the Roto flats and disliked the high tension feel - very stiff and tiring to play, although the sound was good. I also put TI flats on an Alembic Epic - very good, but couldn't help feeling I was missing something? BB

There's a lot of them, so here's my experiences/thoughts: SDQP - nope, doesn't sound like a Pbass to me. Too aggressive and bright. SD vintage (not antiq) bang on as a replacement, sounds right looks right. DiMarzio Model P sounds a a bit more aggressive, but still very true as a P replacement. Also a four conductor humbucker so very good on background noise. Looks wrong, but who cares? Wizard trad - didn't overly impress me ( ). Also found it hard to fit, as the case seems a bit oversized? I know these things vary, but this was the worst I've found. Let me know if you want it? Kent Armstrong Sky (WD) - very good for the money, pretty traditional P sound but again I found the cover was a bit oversized? EMG - I love. Can sound pretty P like if you turn the tone down, but a lot cleaner and also brighter if you want. Sounds great with flats. Battery can be a squeeze in a P bass, depands on the routing. And battery changing is a chore, but you don't have to do that very often. I currently use the DiMarzio. Hope that helps a bit BB

If you're anywhere near Bristol I've got two here under the stairs you're welcome to for nowt...old square hardboard type, one fits Fenders the other slightlly larger (came with a JD Supernatural). PM me for details.... BB

Lovely bass....enjoy it! BB

Glad to see the thread was useful. Mo has a great reputation for repair and set up - shame I live in Bristol and I'm never in London long enough to use his services... BB

I'd also suggest a very light rub with finest steel wool and a dab of gun stock oil (Truoil is the stuff MM uses for its current oil necks). Dries very quickly and easy to maintain. The other alternative, if its an old gloss laquer that still has some depth, is to give it a polish (car paint restorer, not wax polish..). It may come up shiny and hard...just depends what was originally applied and how much is left? BB

Yes, the J will hum if its a single coil, but you can get humbuckings designs in the same sized case. A P on its own is humcancelling, and a matched J pair will be hum cancelling when both on full - but back off the volume of either and it will hum like a bugger. Leo never designed the P and J to go together, so you'll find it hard to get a "matched" output from a PJ combo. Most makers just bung their existing P with their existing bridge J, so you may need to adjust the relative heights of each to get a more even output. BB

Sold some cables to Lee - first class transaction, and good communication. Highly recommended (and he's got some lovely basses...) BB

Pbass scratchplates are always a bit of a lottery - I've hardly ever got one (USA, Jap, or "generic") that didn't require some fettling, usually round the pickups. Get the style you want, but be prepared to return it if it needs too much work to get a decent fit. I've had best luck/value with WD or "basspartsresource" but also Thomann. BB's worst quality award goes to Allparts for an anodised look plate - more like black plastic covered in baking foil. Keep an eye open here as well? BB

Shameless, I know...... BB

Seriously nice stuff - you don't see the blue/tort combination very often. You need a nice pricey cable mate....don't want to miss anything BB

Just saw a used fretted four string Downright on the Gallery's site - looks a few years old...not that I need another one, mind you. BB

Not really my area, but I often get asked to learn stuff fast (or more often just make it up on the spot) Get recordings, (live is best) even if they're different to the current versions - ask for a list of what they really want you to know (a lot of bands only ever play half of what they could on gigs..). Make some notes on your "master list" about keys (tunings?) arrangements etc Don't worry about learning everything in detail, just rough out the whole lot and learn where the tricky bits are - you can get back to them, or fake your way thru for now. Your focus should be on learning the part, but mostly about how to fit into the band, that's what they want. If they're talking to you then your half way there....good luck, and hope you enjoy it. BB

See my Clifton "Cherry" bass in the porn section - around 7lbs, might be less. You don't even know its there (but its also short scale). Mo Clifton started making instruments partly because his trusty P bass was too heavy and badly balanced for comfort. BB