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BassBod

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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. I agree the Thomastiks are great sounding strings - the only ones I've found without a nasty "edge" to the sound. But (and its a BIG but) they are a pain to use at first - the gauges are unusually light (think Mark King..) and on top of that they are very flexible, so you will probably have to change bridge and nut (and probably truss rod) settings to make them playable. Also, acoustically they are soft - the lack of "clank" does make it a warmer sound but at the expense of acoustic impact - not an issue on a Turner bass but a consideration if you're planning to play unplugged. BB
  2. I'd be happy to offer a bitsajazz (good quality, Armstrong p/ups and Labella flats) plus a bit of cash... [attachment=2873:DSCN0938.JPG][attachment=2874:DSCN0941.JPG] PM me if you want more details? BB
  3. Sorry, nothing there I'm interested in. I'm skint too, with a growing gas list....hence the sale! Ta for the interest BB
  4. The ebony board is a good sign - I think a set of strings (to your taste) and a bit of a set up should get you on track. Maybe get a pickup fitted at the same time? Remember that ply basses were also designed to be more durable, not just cheaper to make. Have fun BB
  5. I've got a an old Czech ply - it really depends on what's wrong with it, and how much you're prepared to invest. Broken bits (endpin, nut, tuners?) aren't too pricey, and fixes can be included in a pro set up. New pro-fitted bridge is a good idea, again not expensive and you can also include a pickup installation. I'd look at this type of work as giving the bass a fair chance to sound its best. A few changes can really make a big difference. Where I would stop is major structural work (taking the top off, neck off..) or replacing the fingerboard. The bass was constructed to a certain level, so you have to always bear that in mind. On mine I've fitted a new adjustable bridge, changed a dodgy endpin and stripped the peeling fingerboard finish. It sounds ok (with Innovation strings) for old school thumpy stuff. But it's never going to give the complex woody tones that a "better" solid top bass could. That would cost me a lot more - and I play EUB most of the time, so its never going to make sense to invest that much in an acoustic bass.
  6. Back for sale bump....new "let it go for £750" price... BB
  7. One other thing - sounds obvious, if you get the bass set up think about putting adjuster wheels into the bridge. This enables you to change string height (ie start low then move it up by small amounts over a few months, then back down if it's too high for comfort). The real purists will say they mess up the sound, but when you're getting started it can be a big help. Enjoy... BB
  8. Bump for the weekend... BB
  9. [attachment=2828:DSCN1041.JPG][attachment=2827:DSCN1040.JPG][attachment=2829:DSCN1038.JPG] Here's a few quick photos - sorry they're not very good, but I was doing three things at once. As you can see, as new condition - its only been to "nice" studios and polite gigs! BB
  10. Sorry, no trades on this one as I'm really gassing after a bass (that I'll miss...). No power supply, but it runs 100 hours on two 9vs so I never needed one. Has got original manual (also available on raven lab's site - nice helpful people). cheers for the interest BB
  11. Now that's a bit of a subject - do a search here (?) and on Talkbass, then look at Bob Gollihur's site - his summaries and prices are the best I've seen. Any idea what's on your bass? Also, what sort of sound are you looking for? Favourite players? Double bass strings vary more in construction, sound and feel than bass guitar strings, and of course cost more so you'll want to think about this one... I'd suggest Thomastick Spirocores or D'Addario "hybrids" as a good start, unless you're really wanting to use a bow lots. BB
  12. Raven Labs (Steve Rabe, SWR founder) made this great little active DI for a couple of years, before closing the company. Its an active design, with a transformer output, and some extra features, like its own effects loop (think about it..) two separate inputs, mute button, tuner output. Fantastic quality, like new condition, but a lot better than I really ever need...so yours for £150 posted in UK (They were originally something like $350) I'll get a photo up later, when the camera's charged up BB
  13. And if you also buy the SWR rig I'm selling you've got instant "JPJones gear"...sort of, minus a few extra strings etc BB
  14. Now that looks very nice - so what's deal...sound feel...what p/ups....(I could go on) BB
  15. Oh yes, and dead cheap for such quality...... BB
  16. Studio 220 amp/preamp, Stereo 800 power amp and Goliath II 4x10 cab - excellent condition (one slightly bent rack ear on St800). Collection only from Bristol area, make me an offer around £700?? [attachment=2779:DSCN0816.JPG] BB
  17. Time to re-advertise this - Hugh Manson 1984 "Kestrel". Mahogany/maple thru neck, with ebony fingerboard. Body is lovely mahogany, with a schedua top. Schaller bridge and tuners and retro fitted with a Bart MM pickup. Thin v-profile neck, and a fair bit of "mojo" (all superficial - nothing I would consider damage). Recently treated to a complete professional re-fret. [attachment=2774:DSCN0750.JPG][attachment=2773:DSCN0746.JPG][attachment=2772:DSCN0745.JPG][attachmen t=3238:DSCN0747.JPG] No case, only a gig bag so only pickup from Bristol (M4 J18). Looking for £450 or nearest offer. PM for questions etc BB
  18. Thanks for the reply. Needless to say, I have a plan....but don't know how long its going to take.... (Don't s'pose you fancy a Warick Streamer..that balances well...always worth asking!) BB
  19. Ok, checked the string spacing on the Clifton - it's narrower than I thought, so looks like I'd have to go for a "short scale" version of the DS. How useful was the varitone circuit? I've never really heard anything like this? Cheers for the reply, and hope you get a sale soon. BB
  20. I was thinking of my Clifton shortscale (but I don't think the string spacing is particularly narrow..have to check) BB
  21. I'll buy the Darkstar, if you buy the bass and decide to return it to original look (but which version DS is it?) BB
  22. I'd love to buy this bass, but I'm far too poor at the moment (and it will be gone by the time I sell some other stuff..anybody here like SWR??) so here are some questions - I've wanted to try one of these for ages but have never seen a real live one. What is the balance like? Most J type 5's I've played have been pretty "head heavy" - did they get this one right? Is there a big volume difference in the pickup switching options? I've had basses with various series/par/single coil options, but the output differences usually make it "chose the best and stick to it". How do the Lawrence p/ups handle this? Have a Bump! BB
  23. But you wouldn't fancy shipping one to Australia....... BB
  24. I've used the Picato's - didn't think they were that bad. Just a very traditional flat. In fact, I really like the roundwound nickel sets...esp for the ££. BB
  25. Most basses are 3/4 size - a full size (4/4) has a huge body, (think wardrobe). They are harder to move around, more likely to feedback....but do tend to have a big acoustic voice. I've only ever seen/played two or three. BB
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