BassBod

I'd look for a well used cheap bass here in the UK - something you can see and try. There are deals around, as long as you're not looking for a fully pro instrument for peanuts. And it will take some time. Local shops, colleges/teachers and "repairers" are worth a phone call, as well as free listing mags etc. I got my Czech laminate cheapy from a local guitarist who had bought it from a school. Not a great instrument, but its ok (I mainly play EUB for gigs, but if someone really wants an acoustic....). Make sure you budget for new strings, posiible new bridge/endpin....and a set up. BB

I'd suggest an external preamp (Sadowsky or Aguilar 924?). I own the Aguilar box and it sounds fantastic, but it is a more modern sound than a passive J bass (even "flat" with no eq boost added). Great for Marcus or Will Lee type sounds, but a bit hyped for a Jaco. I guess it depends on the sound you're looking for, but I've never heard an active J bass that really retained its passive character - so the extra box is a good option for me. BB

I suspect its easier to paint over, rather than strip. The top coat of "gel/solvent/whatever it is" isn't very thick... BB

Hugh Manson generally makes electrics, and brother Andy (the more "artistically inclined") makes spectacular acoustics...do a search for the Mermaid? Hugh also spends time on the road as a tech for JPJ (and more recently Yes?) so doesn't build lots of instruments. He's also got the shop to "keep him warm", as someone once told me! BB

I had this one up for sale a while ago - lovely bass, I'm not too upset to still have it around the house, [attachment=2452:DSCN0743.JPG] 1984 Manson Kestrel - mahogany/maple through neck with a schedua (?) front. Kent Armstrong p/up replaced with a Bartolini MM. BB

Here's a proper "grown up" fretless I acquired a few weeks ago here on BC [attachment=2445:DSCN1021.JPG] Fantastic sound, but a bit weighty (like a lot of Alembics..) BB

Before you order the standard version, give John a call and ask about the "mutant" one - I find the footswitch/mute really handy on stage (with a double bass with no volume control). BB

Look at Orchid Electronics - they do a really simple active DI that does the job well and doesn't cost a fortune. I've got a variation of this, with an added footswitch and tuner send, so you can mute the PA send and tune silently (and also unplug..or just mute if youre not playing). The muting version was under £50 a few years ago. BB

Tell us about those Pangbourns! The 80's bass that got away..... BB

From what I've heard (briefly) the F2B and F1X are pretty much the same, but the F1X is only half (one channel) but with additional more modern features like a DI output, fx loop and bi-amp outputs (I think?). The DI is op amp driven rather than transformer, which seems to upset some people. No problem using either for five string - my only reservation is the limited mid-range, but this is more of a cabinet issue really. The mid is there, you just have to be careful (with some cabs) not to overdo the bass boost. BB

That '86 Wal is in incredibley good condition! I've seen "new " basses in far worse nick! You gotta try fretless without lines - its a very liberating experience, although possibly scary at first. Better all round until someone gives you a written part, with a bit of nice exposed melodic bass, right up the dusty end.....ooeeerr :wub: BB

Its an "old school" sound, with a passive Aaron Armstrong humbucker, (no pots) and Rotosound Trubass plastic coated strings. More Ron Carter than Jaco. The fingerboard is old "rio rosewood" that Mo got from an acoustic guitar maker a few years ago. The body is English cherry and the neck is American cherry, hence the name. Its sounds much more focussed than other short scales I've played, and very "resonant". The neck profile is fairly thick wihch helps it to feel more substantial - I think a jazz profile neck on a 30" scale would feel strange. Mo uses thru body stringing (so it takes 32" strings) and normally uses a fixed aluminium bridge - this one has a rosewood tailpiece and bridge to match the fingerboard. The real bonus is the lack of weight and perfect balance - its feels like a light g"*tar but sounds like a heavy bass..... BB

Here's the shortscale Clifton Cherry bass - weighs under 7lbs, size of a Telecaster. [attachment=2187:DSCN0617.JPG] BB

A mention for Pyramid Gold flats (from Germany) terrific old sound, tension a bit high but not as bad as some. The E just thumps from new..dead as a dead thing....luuverrrly (as they say in these parts) BB

Here's one I made earlier....started as an old Brandoni bitser (was oil finished) and ended up with an old style paint job, bashes and all. The colour doesn't really work in the photo, but its Fiesta Red (pinkish but more red than it look on my screen). Sounds great (with flats) but I've got a bit of earthing hum I can't get rid of. [attachment=2151:DSCN0992.JPG] You can do it yourself, but its not cheap or easy... BB

Cheers....but its staying with me for a while! BB

If its a four string I wouldn't expect it to make much difference, but on a five or six it may be noticable? I'd suggest taking off a tuner and weighing it, then compare that to the ultralight. You could multiply the difference (x4 or 5) then hang that weight on the headstock - I know that's adding the weight and not taking it off, but it should give you a feel for the difference? My guess is its not worth the cost, unless you've got a dodgy tuner to replace anyway... BB

I use an old Alembic F2B - its certainly warm and very traditional, a fantastic unit - But, it does lack midrange and this can cause problems on some gigs (particularly with cabs with a pronounced mid scoop - like most SWR/Eden/Ampeg). Also the F2B lacks any DI outputs so you have to use a passive DI box in the chain somewhere. The more "modern" F1X is a bit better equiped, (with the same eq) but only has the one channel. If you're looking for "balls", I suppose its Ampeg, but I've never liked the (rented) ones I played through. I'd also consider the Sansamp rack pre. I like the combination of an SWR 220 as a clean preamp, but with the Sansamp pedal in front for a bit of edge when needed. There's a lot of choice..and yes, they do all sound different! BB

Look up Cafe Walter - a bit pricey, but very good. BB

Ok, people may think this is b@ll*cks, but I've found that P bass pickups tend to sound pretty much the same, and I've never really heard a bad one. But Jbass pickups do seem to all have a different character. The worst I've heard were from an early 90's Fender (Japanese?) - very hard and edgy sounding, low output and did the bass no favours. Kent Armstrong (Korean made) replacements sounded very full and punchy (for the money) but still had a bit of harshness. DiMArzio (humbuckers) sounded great, good and honky, but not really the classic bright tone you'd expect form a J. EMG's are fantastic for a modern clear sound, but can sound much more traditional if you turn the tone down at least half..... That's the ones I've played....oh and a SD Antiquity (bridge only). Easily the best sounding, most traditional etc but was pretty microphonic and hummed like a bee BB

I'm a happy EMG user, with a Warwick (together with EA amps and cabs) but its a combination that can be too clean for a lot of people. Two suggestions, set your amp eq back to "flat" and start again, with an emphasis on boosting the lower mids and cutting around or above 4k. Second, cut the highs on the bass (at source) and you can get a more "passive" sound from EMG's. For an "old" sound for blues/rock gigs I often use a Sansamp to warm/rough up the Warwick - more extreme but its always worked for me. BB

Mark Pinto - I think he used to play for Bakka Beyond (World music band based in Bath)??? Sorry, back to the discussion.... BB

I've bought a few cables - excellent products, good prices and fantastic service. Highly recommended. BB

Great to see the old Ashbory still turning heads - tried it thru an octave pedal yet?? BB

Assuming you won't be moving the neck elsewhere, (and its not way off) I'd take a bit off both. Its easier to sand a small amount off, and you're less likely to distort straight edges. Use a block to help keep things flat, and try the fit often to check progress. Good luck BB