
BassBod
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Not always - I bought an old Trace GP11 pre a few years ago, and it was fully functional, with only minimal "bent ear". It also arrived on time, very well packed. I think you've got to talk to them about things as I'm sure condition varies a lot, and they strip some items to repair others etc.. BB
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If you don't tinker with string types/guages then get a traditional fixed brass job. I've got one of the W adjustable brass ones (in case the plastic one fell apart) but you've got to file it out a lot, which makes the individual screws hard to turn. Bit of a fuss really. I saw somewhere that they've redesigned the plastic one? That might be the easiest option. BB
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Be realistic, but above all agree the deal before you play a note - preferably before you go to the studio. I'd rather take an agreed fee over potential future earnings. But then I'm not rich (or particularly busy at the moment.....hmm) I've taken to quoting higher than feels natural these days - you do lose a few jobs, but you also get better paid when you work. BB
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I'm not an expert on such things, but I recall the old Fishman p/up used to come with an extra earth wire - and you just twisted it onto one or more of the strings somewhere below the bridge? If the jack socket is metal cased you should be able to solder a wire to the case and that will provide a ground, but it is a bit odd that it doesn't happen with every amp? Are you playing in the same room with different amps, also are your strings metal? I'm sure there is an Underwood website - may be worth emailing the maker and describing the problem... best of luck BB
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Ahhhh....Druidstone. Done a couple of gigs there over the years. Lovely bar. Enjoy...man. BB
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[attachment=584:DSCN0880.JPG] Going in the For Sale section..... BB
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There are various forms - the custom/hand made ones Kent used to make in the UK (now in the sates) and Aaron still makes here, and the Korean (?) ones that WD sell. All are great and the fender style ones are very useful for projects on a budget. I've seen pictures of very expensive Carl Thompson basses fitted with KA soapbars...always seemed a bit odd to me, given that here in the UK they seem like budget models. I recently sold a Pbass fitted with a £30 KA and the new owner is still raving about the sound...six months later. BB
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Thanks for the Bump Sibob - yes, the Clifton sits on a small spike, that attaches to any mike stand (so you don't have to carry one). I think it also will fit on a standard cymbal stand if you wanted something more industrial. The mike stand works fine as long as its got decent legs - some (non-boom) stands have got shorter ones that aren't so stable. Funny that, I tried one of the early Shuker uprights, and about the only thing I didn't like was it being mounted on a stand to play. We're a fussy lot.... BB
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First up, 1984 Hugh Manson Kestrel. Mahogany/maple through neck, ebony boardand the thinest neck I've ever seen. Fitted with a Schaller bridge, Bartolini MM p/up and recently re-fretted. Very well used condition, but all scuffs and scrathes are superficial. Sounds like a more civilised Stingray - bit of a MusicGent...all warm and woody... [attachment=506:DSCN0743.JPG][attachment=507:DSCN0746.JPG][attachment=505:DSCN0747.JPG][attachment=508:DSCN0750.JPG] Looking for £450 - no case, (maybe gig bag) so pickup only from Bristol area. Second, Mo Clifton Mini EUB 36" scale, fitted with Realist p/up and Picato Innovation strings (for an "old" warm sound). Fantastic bass, really provides a convincing upright bass sound from a very light and portable instrument. The shorter scale length makes it a bit less of a challenge to play, but it has got a fairly high action - this could be changed by altering the bridge. I wouldn't though - it feels like an upright bass! [attachment=509:DSCN0877.JPG][attachment=510:DSCN0879.JPG][attachment=511:DSCN0882.JPG] Looking for £900 including gig bag - again collection only from Bristol area Post or PM any questions....
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Thomastik flatwounds - only made in one (odd) gauge and may require some set to work well (they're a bit more flexible than most) but sound wonderful - warm and clear. They sound like that for years too....just as well 'cause they are expensive. BB
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I don't think I'd trust a Warwick bag with two Warwicks....I've owned three (one of the standard Rockbass and two slightly higher spec) and the quality of the the stitching is not good. After a year or so of careful (usually car) use there are a few areas where things are starting to come apart - velcro coming away/straps attachment points or zip stitching. With the added weight of two basses, I'd expect them to suffer more quickly. I don't think they're terrible products - they don't cost a lot and are well designed. But to securely carry two basses, I'd go for the best I could find (I'd rather carry two bags....but that's just me) BB
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I was also playing around Germany last summer and a few players were using Glock set ups. They all sounded geat (also with Esh basses? never heard of them!). Fantastic full sound and good projection. They didn't look very light though. BB
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I'v seen a Warwick one in the past - probably suffers the same lack of durability as the Ritter though. I've recently got one of the Harvest bags form Chris at Overwater - the single canvas version. Its a lot better made than any bag I've seen, except maybe the good Levy's ones. I'm expecting it to outlast the typical Warwick/Ritter by at least four times, so hopefully it will pay for itself in the end. I'd be tempted to go for the Levy's canvas double bag (assuming they do one)? But check the delivery costs and taxes! BB
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Saw him play with a version of BrandX about ten years ago, maybe a bit more - gig was ruined by a stupidly loud guitarist who seemed totally out of his head. Percy was playing an Ibanez (?) and didn't sound at all like the records. I used to love that early "Wal" sound, but I never got to hear it live. BB
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Hi jwbassman I'm going in the opposite direction - I loved my SWR rack, (90 lbs cab and 30-40 lbs of pre/pwr amp). It always sounded good. But, I really appreciate the newer lighter stuff (EA esp) and don't use the bigger rack gear unless its a tour/big venue and there's plenty of people to load the van or its a really important recording where someone might appreciate (or even notice) a better sound. Whenever I've used the sansamp for recordings I've always been very impressed, in fact surprised, that it performs so well. People think of it as a fuzz box, but it can be more subtle. Enjoy looking for your solution - there's a lot of good rack gear out there - I'd recommend the SWR Grand Prix (very clean), any age of Alembic F1X/F2B (warm as toast) or the Trace GP12SMX. All great and sometimes available on evilbay.....or here? BB
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I'd suggest that you try a sansamp bass driver in front of your existing EA. You can (with a bit of adjustment) use this to warm up the sound, and make it sound "older" if that makes sense? I did ths for ages with my SWR (Grand Prix or Studio 220 into 800 pwr amp) for blues and rock gigs. I've also done the same with an iamp500 / cxl112 and get very good results. It may not be a purist approach, but I've always found it works well and you don't have to cart extra heavy rack boxes about. Maybe I'm just getting old and lazy..... BB
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Calton (UK) - moulded hard cases,made to order and to fit a specific instrument. All the "acoustic" people I work with use them and rate highly. Expensive and heavy, but the best I've seen. I'd also vote for the Hiscox - not too pricey but mine has survived countless flights and vans with only exterior damage - very impressed. I recently got a Harvest canvas bag (from Overwater). Very nice, seems strong but the back straps are set very high so you can't go through a door without taking it off your shoulder. I'll update in a few weeks when its done some work. BB
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Passive bass - active box. Active bass - passive or active box. From the ones I've used it seems like you get a better sound from a cheap active box than a cheap passive box. Much depends on what you want it for - I use a sansamp a lot, but I often use it as an amp substitute or overdrive. I also use a radial Pro-DI (medium price passive) but this normally comes after a preamp send (to keep phantom power away). Both can/do sound excellent. You can easily over do the eq/emulation on the sansamp, so it pays to get to know it well (you can also switch it all off!) Another thing I've learned - an active DI that clips (runs out of headroom and distorts) sounds awful, but a passive DI can be more forgiving. For a live situation, with a loud band, I'd prefer to use a good passive DI run from the amp. Have a look at Orchid electronics - they have a cheap(ish) active design that I've also used for 10 years, and there's nothing wrong with the sound at all. BB
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Hi stewblack, Looks like you don't live far from me - I've got a ply "knock about" upright and the Clifton EUB, so if you want to try one out....I can certainly explain the difference/process of moving from BG to upright. It is addictive though. And expensive. BB
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Had a quick look again - WMP is ver 11, so that's current. I downloaded an audio file converter, and WMP works fine if I convert the H4's .wav files to .wma. If I don't then WMP won't open, play or burn these .wav files. There was an error message somewhere about these files missing a "PCM codec" whatever that means? Its too late to be trying to sort this out....so I'll look again over the weekend. Thanks for the interest! BB
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Thanks peted, I've only had the H4 for a couple of days - it shows version 1.3 on startup, so I don't think any of the updates would apply. Still puzzled - had a look at a few Zoom discussion pages and there is no mention of this isuue? I suspect its as much about using better CD burners as the Zoom box? BB
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Yes, iTunes converts and plays fine, but not WMP (or Sonic Record). But, if you import/export (as wav) through Audacity the resulting wav files are fine - I guess something is done to them in the process that the H4 doesn't do when it creates them?? Seems very strange to me, but them I can't seem to load photos onto message boards anymore.....where's my bass.. BB