BassBod

Over many years of run around gigging, I’ve found a lot of engineers who don’t want to use the DI on amps - many reasons given, usually to do with level (too high/low) or noise. I now use two approaches, depending on gig and circumstances. First a passive DI run from the effects send of an amp ( no noise, transformer islolation and my preamp settings). Second I’ll use a Sansamp - recognised and respected, never had anyone object to it.

Yep, LS2 or Sansamp Deluxe/VT with two inputs and memory. The emulation and eq can be used very sparingly, if desired.

Nothing but observation and using the stuff. The 8” drivers in the Baby Blue combo started as Bag End (Eminence made) but moved on to Celestions...and possibly another driver later, can’t remember. I’m sure this was due to cost and supply - there weren’t that many options in the early 90’s. The first versions (Bag End) would have been the original spec/concept for the cab design. But I suspect the move to Celestions was also due in part to manufacturing the 8x8 cabs...that’s a lot of component supply, so a slightly inferior driver makes sense, if that’s the one that can be sourced in quantity reliably. I’ve changed the Bag End speakers in my Baby Blue to modern Eminence Beta’s. The sound is pretty much the same, maybe a hint less lows...but nothing significant. I don’t worry about stressing them. The only trade off has been the available impedance of the speakers- it now runs into a 4 ohm internal load, so adding a second cab isn’t possible. The SWR concept was studio monitor sound, they didn’t high pass the extreme low end of their amps (although there are limiter circuits). It’s easy to stress speakers by boosting the low end and playing loud.

Another thought - SWR used Celestions in later versions of the Baby Blue 2x8” combo - they never seemed that robust, as a lot of used amps have damaged drivers. I would very tempted to use Eminence Beta’s or similar, even if I had to convert the cab to work as two 4x8”s with separate inputs.

What Bill said, plus ebay may be worth a trawl. I’d be tempted to re-fit the cab with current Eminence products, but there will be some modelling and impedance to work through, and cost for 8 drivers.

Sounds like phase - swap the leads on the J and see...still might not be great, but could be better. Its worth remembering that in a normal J set, the pickups are designed to be humbucking when equal - so one is reverse wound (and magnetically reverse) to the other..regardless of what colour the wires are.

Always a good idea - we never seem to use the return socket (with switch in the signal path). In this case, can’t help thinking it’s probably worth going to another tech for diagnosis and fresh opinion.

LH 500 would be easy - it’s a standard 2u rack size...just take off the Hartke logo and bolt into any retro style case 😎. It will probably drive nicely, but you’ll need a high input level to make it growl (really designed for clean, but it’s a 12ax7 valve pre in the front)

In that case, be polite but persistent. Try Polar...but also get the "spec" of the part you need and search US suppliers. Its probably a board mounted pot, so its the exact size and pin location that matters. If you have to source from the US, then think about adding a second spare pot, or some knobs..or a handle to your order. The things that break or fall off! It will take some time, and cost a bit but probably worth it if you really like the amp.

Take it to a good tech...chances are very good that the correct value pot is available from many other sources. Even a quick evilbay search will probably turn up a few options (although US, most likely).

Two thoughts. The Hartle LH500 is essentially an old “Fender” preamp mated to a late 70’s style power amp. Not expensive, but worth a try. If it does the job put some vintage knobs on it and put it in an old style case. Or - get a powered cab, dress it up, and use a Sansamp VT for your sound (stage and DI for the PA). Both could work very well.

It’s an old system, originally for scientific /lab research, not rocknroll. My SWR’s make it more of an issue. They used aluminium cases for heat transfer, but it is more likely to get stressed by drops and tough handling - slight bends can be re-shaped, but only so many times. Also they punched the rack bolt holes to fit a 2u amp into a 3u space - to allow for air cooling. This makes a larger than normal gap at the bottom between amp and case. There really does need to be something (dense foam or wood) in that gap, especially with the heavier amps.

Oh yes, black paint is essential 😎

A simple wood block can be fixed under the back of the amp - I’ve used a skirting board off cut, Velcro’d onto the bottom of the case. Stops too much movement and stress to the front of the amp. My SWR power amp fell out of a van...

I paid something like £750 for it, eventually traded it for a lightly used Sadowsky...that I should’ve kept 😳. I think the Bass Centre commissioned quite a few Epics in the mid 90’s, which is why there are a few in circulation at sensible prices in the UK. Nice basses 😎

Looks like the one I had (traded on here several years ago). Lovely bass, if a bit weighty 😎

My memory of the Epic was get the right strings on it (DR Sunbeams for me) then get your sound with the pickup balance, then fine tune with on board eq. It really was very simple! Used mine in lots of different settings and it always worked for me. Didn’t always look right, but sounded great 😎

Lovely basses. It’s the clarity that you either love or don’t. There isn’t really an Alembic sound, it’s just the strings, and filters if you want them. Look out for an SF2 rack preamp - essentially the filters in a Series II Bass but in a 1u rack. Very expensive new, but they do sometimes come up used, and a lot cheaper.

Actually, I recently sent the amp in to them for a fan modification - it came back in the same bag (and same cardboard box) it went in. I’ll get another bag, eventually..probably the Gator version. Seems to be the right cost/quality balance. Been using one of their rack bags for ages, much better than others I’ve used before.

I bought one for my Retroglide, but the zipper on the cable pocket broke far too easily and quickly for the fairly light use it’s had. Not exactly impressed with that.

I’ve used thin brass sheet, cut to run under the bridge pickup, then wired to ground on one of the pots.

Yes, I was selling it (on behalf of the estate of a friend) but decided to keep it. Works nicely with the old AH150. Sounds great, but it’s very heavy for it’s small size.

One of these...