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BassBod

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. Two more photos, with road case. Case is in good condition, but one wheel has lost its brake.
  2. I’m very happy with my 2x TKS S112’s. One for smaller places/awkward load ins, and both when I need silly volume. I use a few amps, but generally an Ashdown Retroglide (with Sansamp) or an early 80’s Trace Elliot AH150 ( no Sansamp required!) If I was buying now, the Rootmaster would be at the top of the list, followed by an old GK 400.
  3. Found another photo on the phone...
  4. A really nice simple 1x15" cab from Bag End. Rear port, no tweeter, probably a tweaked Eminence driver. Has a very musical voicing, bit light on the lows compared to many modern cabs, but this concept dates back to the Alembic Wall of Sound days. Dark red Rat Fur. Weighs around 45lbs, comes with Roqsolid cover and full wheeled flight case (not made for this cab, but it fits on its back). Has jack/speakon and banana sockets. Very good condition - I'm guessing its around 15 years old. One small dent in metal grill, and one side handle has carpet tape over the rubber grip, as it started to split. Rat Fur is a bit fluffy but not bad. Not really interested in trades, (maybe a small PJB combo?) and collection from Bristol/Bath area strongly preferred. I'll put some better photos up if there is any real interest - happy to try and answer any questions...
  5. The Queens is a fun place, isn’t it? That room is a testament to Dean’s love of all things music and tech...almost no room for the audience ?
  6. Retroglide 800 works fine for me. Fan is noisy, but only for very quiet settings, it really isn’t a problem in any gig situation. I just use the graphic to adjust to the sound of the room. Paired with a single TKS S112 it’s great..with two it’s deafening ?
  7. On the face of it, there are various pre/power amp ins and outs...not very different from the usual line out/in stuff on most good quality amps. But reading some of the blurb...it looks like they've tried to make sure that the connections don't introduce noise. So, its like giving a beefed up ABM to your techs...and seeing what they do to it to make sure it won't hum on that difficult stage in (insert remote location) and will always interface well with other gear. Probably useful if you are going from big stage to big stage and want a modular set up that gives a very reliable and consistent performance...but not so useful in the Dog and Duck where you just want a loud amp (that looks cool).
  8. The isolated (transformer?) outputs are an unusual feature - presumably designed so you can do many different multi-amp hook ups without earth loop and noise problems. Assuming it works, that's a great option if you're making that much noise and is hard to do cheap. Over the years I've tried a few amp links (pre-power, bi-amp etc) and often you get hums and buzzes, even from gear that's made to work together (thanks SWR).
  9. Looking forward to the AH250 😜
  10. The top of my current list is the Ashdown Origin(al) DI pedal. Not seen one yet..but it’s got a lot of nice things on board, including a real valve..but I don’t know how subtle it is. My ABM (evoII) uses the valve mainly for distortion, not the core tone...so I’m hoping this will be different.
  11. I don’t think they will be going into production - I think Phil decided they would be too costly...email PJB or Synergy (UK distribution).
  12. If the amp/speakers had performed, then I guess these would have become popular ahead of the ‘51 P bass. I suspect the early 50’s Fender Bassman was a lot more effective than the 1936 Rickenbacker.
  13. I seem to recall an early Rickenbaker that did this - very early on, late 1930’s. The upright bass sat on top of the amp case (think 5W gramophone!). Edit - yep Rickenbaker Electro Bass Viol 1936 Google the above, and you’ll get some photos 😜
  14. Warwick Thumb - lovely things, until you stand up, then realise it’s a headless design but someone in marketing said put the headstock back on (don’t worry about the balance..it looks better).
  15. 5751 is a low gain version of 12ax7/ecc83, supposed to be 70%. I use them in SWR amps sometimes..makes the front end a bit less up front. Worth a try?
  16. BTW - has anyone else got a white peak input LED on their Retroglide? Something tells me it should be red....or is it just me...
  17. The Goliath II has a huge drop in the upper midrange - I’ve always had to eq differently to others. Don’t use the pre-shape, turn up the mids and go easy on the bass...and stand ten feet away 😜
  18. Go gently with the alloy rods - replaceable, but they can snap with only a bit of effort 😳
  19. I must get my Retroglide fan changed - they say they can fit a quieter one. Good to hear there is a noticeable difference 😎
  20. Now I understand why my Retroglide has a fan, even though it never even thinks about getting warm, let alone hot. I guess the earlier designs proved it was better to be safe than hot...
  21. Andy Manners - very very good, in Corsham just along the M4 (or A4 in old money).
  22. Sadowsky flats or DR flats - both are much more forgiving and flexible than most flats, and have plenty of life. Black tape wounds can be nice, but they also break the earth connection at the bridge so can make your instrument a bit buzzy (not in a good way) in some venues. My favourite for fretless is still DR Sunbeams (or Pure Blues). Nickel round wounds, but gentle on fingerboards and it takes a long time before the marks are significant, even on a rosewood board.
  23. Been counting pennies, but not looking hopeful. Quick question - what’s the pickup?
  24. Just about the only bass I really regret selling - would buy it if I currently could 😳
  25. Should work well, except the single coil hum would be an issue, if you included a true single coil option. Running a passive J bass into a Sadowsky preamp is very close to the same thing..and that's always sounded great to me. I would use DiMarzio Model J humbuckers, cut off the tabs on one side, and glue them together. Not very elegant (or exactly the same size!) but should be fun.
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