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BassBod

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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. Now SOLD...to the man round the corner! BB
  2. Amazing what you find under the stairs. This is a bitser/beater, full details below, but made up of good parts with a "proper" rattle can nitro crap-home -sprayed-finish (I won't be trying that again). No Pickups or electrics are fitted or included, but the routes are all standard Jbass sizes so it will be easy to fit any fender spec replacement type parts. [attachment=42496:P1000083.JPG][attachment=42497:P1000084.JPG][attachment=42498:P1000089.JPG] Body - solid alder, medium weight, came from Brandoni several years ago. Has a fiesta red/white primer nitro finish, but well bashed about. All bashing is superficial except one chip down by the control cavity (which is why it then got bashed about!) Not sanded and polished to perfection. At all. Neck - from WD, Pbass neck with rosewood board, with a tinted satin nitro finish on headstock face, the rest is oiled (gunstock as used by Musicman). Has a decal and Schaller tuners. [attachment=42499:P1000090.JPG][attachment=42500:P1000095.JPG] Will come in a cheap but ok gig bag (Brandoni) This could be the perfect pub gig bass....yours for £120 collected from Bristol/Bath area. PM any questions or insults...I'm out a bit for the next few days, but will get back asap. BB
  3. I'd love to..bit short on Ricks but I'll PM you an offer....
  4. Thats possible...its either going fretless again or its going, I'm having trouble deciding
  5. I think I'm having one of those "mid life" moments - just want to free up some money and get a new project underway. The gigs aren't paying enough these days. And the car is getting older...kids are getting bigger...etc etc There will be a lot more stuff going in the next few weeks...
  6. Thanks Schnozzalee....yes, the big one is rather impressive...which reminds me I've got a group photo somewhere to give a better idea of size. These three are 24" 30" and 36" scale lengths [attachment=42393:DSCN1099.JPG]
  7. I only got away with it because its so small...how could you not? Its not like its a whole big expensive bass...and its saves so much room when you're travelling....I could go on...
  8. This is a 24" scale fretless 5 string, tuned BEADG but an octave higher than normal. Designed mainly for travelling, but also just really good fun to play! Mahogany body with spruce top, maple neck with ebony fingerboard. Semi-hollow with small sound holes in the side, so you can play it unplugged and still enjoy it. Pickups are WD/Armstrong with a humbucker at the bridge and a tele style single coil at the neck - volume control with three position selector switch. [attachment=42390:DSCN1321.JPG][attachment=42391:DSCN1322.JPG][attachment=42392:DSCN1323.JPG] Good condition, with just some minor playing marks - oil and wax finish, as normal for Cliftons, so easy to maintain and repair minor scuffs etc. Comes in original custom gig bag (one zip tag missing, but otherwise good condition). New there are around £750. I'm selling this for £350 collected from Bristol/Bath area - as usual, PM for questions and I'll get back as quick as I can... BB
  9. I've always had the same problem with SWR stuff - they try to make you put a 2U box in a 3U space (by spacing the mounting holes) so there is plenty of air for cooling. You can drill new holes in the amp, or get a different rack strip/case. The SKB cases use more holes and I think the Thomman ones have "loose" fittings that can slide around. Its a pain, but not impossible.
  10. My Bravewood bitser will have to do. A Jbass from 1966 would cost a bit too much..but a rubber date stamp may be within reach.
  11. The clips supplied with the BP100 do work, but the two piezo plates require a very flat surface to give a good strong sound. You may need to do a bit of "spot" sanding or fit the pickup to the back of the bridge, which is usually flat anyway. Its a question of shifting positions slightly until you get the best sound, then mark the exact locations and glue the buggers in place. But the glue is a once only option, so I wouldn't recommend it. The earth wire makes no difference to the sound, its just to remove potential hum/buzz through a string earth (as on a bass guitar bridge). DI boxes can be very good buffers, as long as they are active. I would imagine the BP100 through a passive DI would be truly dreadful. Also worth playing through the PA speakers? Some DBers use powered PA cabs as their amps these days.
  12. Looks like a very very good start to me! Wish I'd been so well prepared. The BP100 isn't that bad really, its just a bit trebly and can exaggerate finger noise when you play on your own. The "secret" is to use some form of preamp/buffer to make the iput impedance a better match than your typical bass guitar amp. Superglue can also work wonders..but its a bit high risk. I wouldn't worry about amplifying your bass for a while anyway. Get to know it, work on your technique - a stronger acoustic sound will always be better when its time to plug in.
  13. Oh yes..forgot that bit. Its a piccolo "travel" bass by Mo Clifton. I think its a 24" scale, tuned up an octave from a normal 5 stringer. [attachment=41842:DSCN1323.JPG] Its fun, but more fun on your own!
  14. I'd suggest John East (East uk) here on the forum. The Alembic pickups are very low output (by design) so would need something "tweaked" to work well with them. It won't be cheap, but you really need something high quality for this. The bonus is that you can have the configuration you want, as long as its not too exotic! I too gave up on Alembic when tryng to convert my old rack F2B to UK voltage. However, when they did eventually engage they were superb, and supplied a replacement transformer together with detailed instructions. Thats for a unit that was pushing 30 years old and is still very servicable. As a side note..from what I've seen Alembic charge a lot of money for their on-board electronics. That would also make me look for alternatives..even if they did reply to my emails.
  15. [attachment=41804:DSCN1322.JPG][attachment=41805:DSCN1321.JPG] Some might not consider this a bass, but its got 5 strings (BEADG up the octave, baby) and no frets and the bottom five or six notes sound pretty low when its amplified. And its a hollow body.
  16. The Ritter one is ok, and the Warwick one is a Warick one (nice bag but with crap soft/thin padding). The Levys is worth the extra cash if you think you'll use it a lot. But - two basses together are heavy, and I find it a lot easier to carry two bags.
  17. Shaftesbury's good for me..half way to the inlaws so that could be useful with the kids....
  18. There are playble tough plywood basses around (Czech 70s school basses etc) but you won't get "loud" from them. Mine does "thumpy old trad/bluegrass" with the right strings, but it is low acoustic volume and with no woody complex mids to get all jazzy about. But I can take it around pubs/festivals/weddings/funerals etc without worrying about what might happen to it. And I always have to use a pickup - audiences don't listen to bands anymore. Actually, bands don't listen to bands anymore. Am I sounding old? Even for a decent but rough ply bass I'd guess you're looking for £400 - £800 plus new bridge, strings and a bit of set up. Plus pickup/preamp. If you buy from a dealer you'll pay more, but may get some of the upgrades already done..if you're lucky.
  19. From memory the Aguilar circuits don't add any gain to the pickups - so they don't boost output as such, until you crank the eq. I used some old Barts with one, and found the output was similar to a low output passive bass. I guess (assuming wiring is all ok) its hotter pickups or another preamp...but first push the input gain on your amp and see if you like the sound. My guess would be better pickups will get you there.
  20. The protec contego has big front pockets..but I would always keep an amp in another bag, away from the bass. Metal boxes and basses in close proximity is asking for trouble - I know there is padding etc, but its never that good even in the really expensive bags. The other problem is that by the time you add guitar strap, power cable and speaker cable (plus one or two instrument cables, tuner) you might as well carry another small bag.
  21. Now you're just scaring me..... I sometimes use my SWR eq as a high pass filter, but just to protect the speakers on "loud" gigs....but my definition of loud is very different from yours! To be honest I think the simplest and safest way (excluding your hearing) is to use full range signals and just exploit the differences responses inherent in different cab designs, with eq as a fine tuning? Even high-tuned-banjo-playing Stanley Clarke used to use Marshal guitar amps to give mid range crunch (I believe its called, never had a use for it myself). Find head/cab combinations that sound good, then find a way of linking them without bad earth loops? Then find a venue where you can make that sort of noise...next door would be ideal?
  22. Again, I'd love to buy them. But I'd have to shift my EA cabs first (two CXL110's..hint hint)
  23. No problems with the price - very good gear for the money. I'd guess people are just a bit skint, and the newer smaller lightweight stuff is grabbing everyone's attention. I have got a question about the SWR, as I've happily owned one for a several years. It looks like the speaker connections have been updated from jack/banana plugs to speakons. Can you still bridge the two amps? On mine I have to use one half of each banana set to connect it in bridge mode... If anyone is wondering - the Stereo 800 sounds a lot louder than the specs suggest, it really is a great power amp for bass.
  24. I think I'm working, but may pop into town if I can. That's a long way way to go - hope Friday pays better than the Monday deps I do sometimes! I keep meaning to ask you about the Henriksen combo - any good?
  25. Well...I do what I can...but I'm essentially far too idle/distracted to get any serious work done on upright. I blame the fender jazz for making me so lazy!
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