BassBod

So why haven't they just given Norman the "prototype" to use as a spare? He must've shifted (by reputation/association) tons of TE gear, plus Elites over the years. I know it doesn't work like that...but..

As I started playing in the early 80's, I have only two memories of these basses.....incredibly heavy, but really nice cases! I'm sure I used one as firewood when times were tough! Worth mentioning that I read somewhere these were the first guitars made by CNC machinery - very much ahead of the times.

Love the look, but I tried one a few years ago (carbon fibre neck) and it was great except I couldn't stop the upper body sticking into my ribs - sitting or standing, it was always giving me a poke! The electronics were interesting..involved Jbass pickups and piezos, but I didn't get on with it enough to work them out. Very disappointed - but I'd love to try another one.

Yes, Mr Foxen is correct - the Thomastik powerbass set (47-10?) uses purple. So do Pyramid gold flats. Overwaters are always black (well, mine have been).

Euphonic Audio CXL112. Used to be very expensive..not the lightest..sounds a bit middy on its own..but in context it really does a great job, and is a perfect "small cab" size. I'd love to try the newer and lighter M-line 1x12, but I'm just too poor these days.

I should also add that I bought a WD one a few years ago - it was nothing like a good fit, didn't even cover the route around the socket. I'd bought an "identical" one a few years earlier which fitted perfectly. Never any guarantee that these things aren't coming from different suppliers. I would expect a refund based only on the fact it doesn't fit, regardless.

That sounds like the Innovations 140H set to me - around £80? The only issue I had with them is the metal windings can "creep" on the nylon (?) core a bit..but they never fell apart in the 3 plus years I used them! I'm using the Rockabilly version now (plastic outer windings rather than metal). Have a look at Bob G's descriptions...but remember the mag pickup. Also Talk*ass is full of "opinions" about strings..but more for purely acoustic qualities than EUB uses.

Good to hear you're enjoying it. Getting "the right" strings for upright is a real learning experience compared to BG, so here are my suggestions - hope it helps. Focus on the sound you want to make first..but also consider the feel. They vary much more. If you want a twangy, NHOP type sound or growly jazz then Spirocores are a safe bet, or the LaBella black nylon (steel core, so ok with mag p/up) are great, and a bit less tension. There are also "older" sounding strings like the Innovation sets which have a softer more "acoustic" sound. I like these on EUB, as they help produce a good acoustic feel - I know the metal wound versions (140H?) work with a mag pickup, but most of them won't as they have no metals in the construction. Have a look at Bob Gollihur's site for useful comments? Best of luck, and take it easy BB

I remember seeing it on the telly once...I think it was a live broadcast of a concert in Germany and I read an Andy Summers interview where he said the pickups died in that bass and one of his guitars after going through an airport scanner..or something like that?? Could be my memory though.

[attachment=34580:DSCN0768.JPG][attachment=34581:DSCN0773.JPG] I managed a multi-lam 5 string super jazz...ok, had to assemble it with a rather soft finish...but got it done. Raw wood to bass in five days. Yes, I did carve the neck a little too thin..and there is one small dent in the fingerboard (missed the fret..getting tired!) but its a good bass and a tribute to Jon's patience and knowledge.

Thomastik rounds are very light - they are almost like 35-90 "slappers" strings in terms of feel, really floppy! I'd suggest the Thomastik flats for a rosewood board - yes, they are still very low tension, but if you set the action up a bit they're ok. They sound fantastic and do very little harm to the fingerboard. Also consider plastic coated flats. The Status ones are very good (nice fretless whine) although the heavy Rotosound set are a bit dull and have weird intonation (or it could be me!)

Well, he got everyone talking...again. And I'm impressed by anyone that can play a Wal for years..and still stand. Nothing wrong with healthy debate

Twang...Twang I could tell you a few things about tone rings if you're interested - did you know they now deep-freeze them to improve the sound? I'd say the Alembic Epic and an 80's Wal custom were about the same - a small run production bass from a high quality (if a bit quirky) maker, with limited custom options..mainly the choice of face woods. Never seen an EMG or Bart on either.....

I never regarded Wals as custom basses - as I've said before, they were all the same, just with a different veneer wood on the front and back. Not much bespoke there.....but good if you like the formua. I guess i'd better go into hiding for a few months...change my name...maybe take up the banjo.... twang twang

I'd look at jack sockets first (bass and amp, and any pedal links) particularly on the bass - wiggle it side to side, pull slightly (!) and listen for noises. Then check the instrument cable? Good luck

Slightly aside, I've always understood that Fender used what the auto makers used, acrylic or nitro, depending on the colour. Companies like Dupont were far too big to worry about what Fender wanted. But the clear coat is usually nitro up to the early 70's and that's what ages..or mellows or whatever you want to call it. Most durable seems to be polyester - look at current Alembics for how good that can look over natural wood (when new) but chips and dings look bad and are tricky to repair without a lot of work. Natural oils/wax are the softest, but also the easiest to maintain and repair for minor damage. My favourite, but you do have to re-wax every few weeks to maintain the protection, and possibly cut back/sand out minor damage every few years. It really depends how the instrument gets treated.