dannybuoy

Have you figured out exactly which pedal is causing the issue yet? Because you'll want to know how much current it draws. There are two isolator tips I'm aware of, one cheap: http://www.diago.co.uk/adaptors/isolator.html And one expensive: http://www.thegigrig.co.uk/timelord-c2x15357225 However the Diago is only rated for 110mA max but the GigRig Timelord can handle 999mA. GigRig also produce the 'Virtual Battery' but I can't find a power rating for it. On the other hand, you can get an isolated supply for less dough than the GigRig Isolator, this one has come recommended by a fellow BCer in a nearby thread: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301907679302

Haven't tried the Chowny. But I have tried the Aguilar and sold it on immediately. It's very sensitive to input levels, feed it too much low end and it just bottoms out and sounds bad. It sounded great with a passive Jazz, but my Yamaha BB or Fender P just overloaded it.

I would use a B3K for this if I had one lying around already and didn't want to buy a new pedal, but if starting from scratch and buying a pedal specifically for this song, I would look elsewhere. I would use a synthy fuzz like a Diabolik along with a digital octaver that adds up and down, like the TC Sub'n'Up. Then maybe a smidge of chorus/delay/reverb on top. The main riff doesn't sound like it uses a filter sweep, so while the MXR is a great pedal, I wouldn't necessarily use one here. EDIT: Basing the above on the original, I've not heard the NIN version!

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1497602059' post='3319342'] Yes - I've had a similar problem with those generic cheap moulded patch cables in the different colours. Noise picked up at the jack ends. Replacing with good metal jack patch cables cured it. [/quote] Yup, the only other cables that had the same issue were the Warwick Rockbass clones of the EBS flat ones and a cheap plastic Bespeco one. Planet Waves plastic jacks were fine though, as were anything metal, from cheapos to pancake jacks, to George L's.

I ran a daisy chain for years without an issue, apart from introducing chirping and whining noises into the signal with the odd (but not every) digital pedal. I started practicing through a headphone amp where I noticed the noise in my chain a lot more (my cabs don't have tweeters). Since I'd recently added 12V and 18V pedals to the collection, I bought a Cioks DC5 to power and isolate them all. Yet the noise remained. In the end after extensive testing, I found it was the recently added EBS flat patch cables that were adding a ton of noise if I had my dimmer switch on in the room. I now have silence after switching those out!

[quote name='Cato' timestamp='1497395351' post='3317886'] You don't want flats for funk, unless you've got James Jamerson skills. Steel roundwounds are the way to go. [/quote] Depends on your definition of funk. I wouldn't say you needs steel rounds to play this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=qhEdJncolsc

Yeah sorry, thought you were trying to contact Digitech to confirm the current draw!

A Darkglass Tone Capsule preamp! When Doug posted on Talkbass that he was going to call it the B2M, I warned him that Sonuus already had a piece of bass gear by the same name. Since this saved him a few quid as he was about to get everything printed up, he was kind enough to send me one for nowt. Top man!

Good price provided you could fix the issue cheaply. I have the newer 4-string model with the additional magnetic bridge pickup and it's a lovely thing.

Input impedance is 500K which is low for a passive bass. Not much you can do about it other than use a pedal in-between as you are now!

Posting this at 13:03 just to see what the timestamp says on the post! EDIT: All looks correct to me, says at the top [color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3]"[/size][/font][/color][color=#A4A4A4][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3]Posted [/size][/font][/color]Today, 01:03 PM"! Maybe it shows local time according to the regional settings on your device?

I think they have a support rep who's very active on Talkbass, user name is along the lines of DigitechRep. Bound to find them lurking in a Digitech thread!

I suppose so, it's a bit cheaper, although for a bit more the DC5 does give you more juice and an 18V option in around the same footprint, should you find your board expanding in future! Hotrox is the best place I know to get em btw, they stock all the accessory cables too: http://www.hotroxuk.com/guitar-fx-pedals-dunlop-ehx-fulltone-hot-rox-uk/cioks-power-supplies.html

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1497355230' post='3317476'] I'd go with a 1spot, a gigrig isolator, and a SupaNova (with a polarity reverse adapter). [/quote] This would certainly save you some board space!

Those first 3 have a low rating so are probably not digital and should behave perfectly well on a daisy chain, so you might not need a whole bunch of isolated 9v outputs. I use a Cioks DC5 because it's one of the only supplies fits under a Pedaltrain Nano/Metro. They sell a bunch of adaptor cables and I have a 3 way splitter powering some well behaved 9v pedals off of a single output, then another output for an iolated digital 9V pedal, another for my 12V Effectrode PC2A and another for my 18V Tonehammer. If fitting the power supply under the board wasn't a primary concern, the supply I would have got would have been the Truetone CS-7. As far as I can tell, this one is a bit different to most isolated supplies in that it doesn't use transformers, it uses switch mode technology like the One Spot and most common power supplies. Two advantages of this is that you can put lots more through the individual sockets (their support say you can ignore the individual mA labels as long as you don't exceed the limit for the entire brick), and certain pedals produce noise when placed very close to a supply with a transformer.

I'm with you. Multis are great if you need a lot of fx on a small budget or have a use a lot of sounds and need instant patch recall, or as a one stop shop IF such a unit were to exist that could compete with the tones you get from analog separates. Maybe such a thing exists, I've not tried the latest top tier models like the Helix, Axe-Fx, etc, but I could never find an agreeable drive, wah or phaser tone out of any of the Zoom units I've tried.

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1497291865' post='3317115'] Yeah, so is price my answer. I should by a more expensive OD pedal? Blue [/quote] Not necessarily, there are plenty of decent cheap options out there. Try the Joyo American Sound or Orange Juice out for example. There are many flavours of overdrive and what works well for some might not work for others. For example I often see recommendations for the EHX Bass Soul Food or Source Audio Aftershock, but they both sounded like cr4p to me! I'll just describe my two faves: Bearfoot Blueberry - thick and warm with a rolled off top end. Compresses and reacts rather like a tube amp. Dig in as hard as you can and it will just growl more rather than hitting a wall and sounding harsh. Great for old school Motown and soul when set to low gain for just a bit of flavour. Pike Vulcan - similar to the Darkglass Vintage but brighter and more upper mids, and blendable between two different overdrive tones, one mid-heavy and one mid-scooped. Has a clean blend and an open uncompressed sound that sounds like running an overdriven guitar amp in parallel with your clean bass. Adds a sheen to the sound like an exciter, which makes darker passive basses like Precisions and T-Birds sound orgasmic. Keep an eye out on the Talkbass classifieds and Reverb.com, buy used and you won't take much of a hit if you sell them on, or just buy new from a store with a good return policy!

Depends on the amp. On the Orange Terror Bass for example, the input stage has ridiculous amounts of gain on tap, so even with a very low output bass you can get some serious tube warmth/distortion going. Not quite the same as power tubes like Bill says, but still a great sound as long as you don't overdo it.

Don't give up on overdrive pedals just because you tried two sh*t ones!

The Truetone CS7 should sort your power requirements Dood. The manufacturer says you can ignore the mA labels as long as you don't exceed the rating for the entire supply.

I've not seen a single active J bass with that many knobs on the control plate that place the jack on the body like that. Maybe a bodge job jack replacement by someone that didn't have the right type of jack socket to hand?! Flattish frets and no position markers all smell of Sandberg too. I'd ask the owner if they have an explanation if only out of curiousity!

Both of those things are odd, but I'm not sure what else it could be unless you can now buy fake Sandbergs from China like you can with Fenders, Musician, etc. Unique bridge design, headstock shape, 4 dot logo and 6 bolt neck all look correct.

Orange Terror Bass. Mucho heft.

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1496770811' post='3313775'] @walbassist. What difference is the presence of the 5" speakers adding to your overall sound? Mids are where we bass players cut through in the mix, so if this brings greater articulation to the mid-range (which is kinda what I'm hoping / expecting) than that seems to be a real plus. I'm not sure how many other cabs are providing the 12" + 5" + tweeter that the Traveller 123 cab is doing? (Is there anything comparable in the BF range - I'd love there to be but I'm not sure there is?) Makes me think that this could be a great cab to go with any (up to) 800W head? [/quote] BF used to offer exactly this setup and were one of the first to do so for bass cabs, but Im sure I recall Alex posting that he now regards the current horn and crossover design they offer to sound superior and they have no plans to move back to a 3-way design.

What do you mean by 'disable one pedal at a time'? Turning them on and off is not sufficient, you should remove them from the chain altogether when testing, as just having a pedal plugged into the power supply can be enough to cause an issue. I would start by testing each pedal individually, i.e. bass->pedal->amp. If they all pass that test, then add one pedal at a time. Chirping noises like you describe often come from digital pedals, maybe your tuner or flanger depending on which model you have exactly. To resolve that you can either put the offending pedal on its own power supply, get an isolation adapter tip, or move up to a supply with individually isolated outputs. Don't forget cables can be a culprit too! And if your power supply has a transformer coil in it, it can generate noise in certain other pedals if they are placed too close by.