dannybuoy

I think they have a support rep who's very active on Talkbass, user name is along the lines of DigitechRep. Bound to find them lurking in a Digitech thread!

I suppose so, it's a bit cheaper, although for a bit more the DC5 does give you more juice and an 18V option in around the same footprint, should you find your board expanding in future! Hotrox is the best place I know to get em btw, they stock all the accessory cables too: http://www.hotroxuk.com/guitar-fx-pedals-dunlop-ehx-fulltone-hot-rox-uk/cioks-power-supplies.html

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1497355230' post='3317476'] I'd go with a 1spot, a gigrig isolator, and a SupaNova (with a polarity reverse adapter). [/quote] This would certainly save you some board space!

Those first 3 have a low rating so are probably not digital and should behave perfectly well on a daisy chain, so you might not need a whole bunch of isolated 9v outputs. I use a Cioks DC5 because it's one of the only supplies fits under a Pedaltrain Nano/Metro. They sell a bunch of adaptor cables and I have a 3 way splitter powering some well behaved 9v pedals off of a single output, then another output for an iolated digital 9V pedal, another for my 12V Effectrode PC2A and another for my 18V Tonehammer. If fitting the power supply under the board wasn't a primary concern, the supply I would have got would have been the Truetone CS-7. As far as I can tell, this one is a bit different to most isolated supplies in that it doesn't use transformers, it uses switch mode technology like the One Spot and most common power supplies. Two advantages of this is that you can put lots more through the individual sockets (their support say you can ignore the individual mA labels as long as you don't exceed the limit for the entire brick), and certain pedals produce noise when placed very close to a supply with a transformer.

I'm with you. Multis are great if you need a lot of fx on a small budget or have a use a lot of sounds and need instant patch recall, or as a one stop shop IF such a unit were to exist that could compete with the tones you get from analog separates. Maybe such a thing exists, I've not tried the latest top tier models like the Helix, Axe-Fx, etc, but I could never find an agreeable drive, wah or phaser tone out of any of the Zoom units I've tried.

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1497291865' post='3317115'] Yeah, so is price my answer. I should by a more expensive OD pedal? Blue [/quote] Not necessarily, there are plenty of decent cheap options out there. Try the Joyo American Sound or Orange Juice out for example. There are many flavours of overdrive and what works well for some might not work for others. For example I often see recommendations for the EHX Bass Soul Food or Source Audio Aftershock, but they both sounded like cr4p to me! I'll just describe my two faves: Bearfoot Blueberry - thick and warm with a rolled off top end. Compresses and reacts rather like a tube amp. Dig in as hard as you can and it will just growl more rather than hitting a wall and sounding harsh. Great for old school Motown and soul when set to low gain for just a bit of flavour. Pike Vulcan - similar to the Darkglass Vintage but brighter and more upper mids, and blendable between two different overdrive tones, one mid-heavy and one mid-scooped. Has a clean blend and an open uncompressed sound that sounds like running an overdriven guitar amp in parallel with your clean bass. Adds a sheen to the sound like an exciter, which makes darker passive basses like Precisions and T-Birds sound orgasmic. Keep an eye out on the Talkbass classifieds and Reverb.com, buy used and you won't take much of a hit if you sell them on, or just buy new from a store with a good return policy!

Depends on the amp. On the Orange Terror Bass for example, the input stage has ridiculous amounts of gain on tap, so even with a very low output bass you can get some serious tube warmth/distortion going. Not quite the same as power tubes like Bill says, but still a great sound as long as you don't overdo it.

Don't give up on overdrive pedals just because you tried two sh*t ones!

The Truetone CS7 should sort your power requirements Dood. The manufacturer says you can ignore the mA labels as long as you don't exceed the rating for the entire supply.

I've not seen a single active J bass with that many knobs on the control plate that place the jack on the body like that. Maybe a bodge job jack replacement by someone that didn't have the right type of jack socket to hand?! Flattish frets and no position markers all smell of Sandberg too. I'd ask the owner if they have an explanation if only out of curiousity!

Both of those things are odd, but I'm not sure what else it could be unless you can now buy fake Sandbergs from China like you can with Fenders, Musician, etc. Unique bridge design, headstock shape, 4 dot logo and 6 bolt neck all look correct.

Orange Terror Bass. Mucho heft.

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1496770811' post='3313775'] @walbassist. What difference is the presence of the 5" speakers adding to your overall sound? Mids are where we bass players cut through in the mix, so if this brings greater articulation to the mid-range (which is kinda what I'm hoping / expecting) than that seems to be a real plus. I'm not sure how many other cabs are providing the 12" + 5" + tweeter that the Traveller 123 cab is doing? (Is there anything comparable in the BF range - I'd love there to be but I'm not sure there is?) Makes me think that this could be a great cab to go with any (up to) 800W head? [/quote] BF used to offer exactly this setup and were one of the first to do so for bass cabs, but Im sure I recall Alex posting that he now regards the current horn and crossover design they offer to sound superior and they have no plans to move back to a 3-way design.

What do you mean by 'disable one pedal at a time'? Turning them on and off is not sufficient, you should remove them from the chain altogether when testing, as just having a pedal plugged into the power supply can be enough to cause an issue. I would start by testing each pedal individually, i.e. bass->pedal->amp. If they all pass that test, then add one pedal at a time. Chirping noises like you describe often come from digital pedals, maybe your tuner or flanger depending on which model you have exactly. To resolve that you can either put the offending pedal on its own power supply, get an isolation adapter tip, or move up to a supply with individually isolated outputs. Don't forget cables can be a culprit too! And if your power supply has a transformer coil in it, it can generate noise in certain other pedals if they are placed too close by.

I have several 'funk wah' pedals used for NO songs. Just because they're so much fun to mess with! 😁

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1496569387' post='3312310'] It's no good, my will has failed. There is a wanted ad up as we speak for an epiphone thunderbird (sorry Blue, my pockets just aren't that deep to stretch to a Gibson at the moment) [/quote] PM incoming!

[quote name='Crawford13' timestamp='1496521821' post='3312124'] I had seen the switchblade. It got put off when the writing on the pedal makes it look like 1 input and 2 outputs, when what I am looking for is 2 inputs and 1 output. [/quote] If it's a passive pedal, like I think it is, then just flip it around and use it backwards, it will work in exactly the same way!

Recommending the biggest compressor going in a thread entitled 'compact compressors'! 😂 The RMI Basswitch Dual Band looks interesting: http://www.rmi.lu/products/product/basswitch-dual-band-compressor There is the Broughton Monocle too, he doesn't have a site but you can PM AzureSkies on Talkbass and he could build you one. It's a 1590A size like the Spectracomp and gets glowing reviews. I'm sure there are a couple of other really small compressors just released/announced, I'll post them if I remember what they are!

[quote name='The_Rodster' timestamp='1496324517' post='3310519'] First time I've seen a Ric accused of heinous neck dive crimes. I will have to dig mine out later, in the meantime here are some photos of my T-birds refusing to neck dive [attachment=246426:IMAG0666.jpg] [attachment=246427:IMAG0667.jpg] [/quote] They have already dove if you ask me, unless you play with your left hand that low!

OP wants to avoid digital pedals and first two recommendations are digital! Are you looking for nano/1590A sized pedals only? Personally I prefer the next size up but with top mounted jacks, they end up taking up the same amount of space as nano pedals once they're lined up. You could complete your line up with Aguilar pedals only, a TLC, Agro, Filter Twin and Chorusaurus! It would look pretty damn neat and be all analog, and the pedals would line up snug with no gaps. It won't be cheap however! An example I found (as you can see, the mini tuner takes up the same width as the bigger pedals due to the jacks): [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/complete-pedalboard-with-all-aguilar-pedals-plus-tuner.1104075/"]https://www.talkbass...-tuner.1104075/[/url]

[quote name='NancyJohnson' timestamp='1496325010' post='3310531'] Incidentally, I have a mate who is a Sandberg endorsee. He's recently been taken to converting his basses to two strings (E & A); removing the E & G machines and stringing them in the A & D positions. [/quote] Your mate should just get the Sandberg 2-string bass then surely! http://youtu.be/P3iCeBAmmbo

Zero neck dive on a Thunderbird if you wrap the bridge end of the strap over the top of the wing instead of behind the bass. In fact, if you want a bass to stay absolutely rock steady when you let go of the neck, a Thunderbird worn like this offers the ultimate stability!

Happens randomly when browsing the site as experienced by many here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/295323-scareware

If you have an old set of strings on, simply taking them off and putting then back on again can make them sound brighter. I guess it's the same phenomenon as this, just without the slapping! http://youtu.be/s8OYeN9mAL4