dannybuoy

[quote name='jasetbass' timestamp='1478849987' post='3172050'] Cheers, but aren't toroidal transformers supposed to have less noise by design? And are they better than digital switched supplies? Any ideas which pedals don't work so well with switching supplies? I'm confused as to whether the type should be a significant factor, or is it just different ways to crack a nut? Manufacturer's blurb says their way is best, but is it?! [/quote] Toroidal transformers spread the coil around a donut rather than all wrapped around in the same direction. I guess this results in less noise as the as each wrap of the coil is facing another going the other way so that their electromagnetic fields cancel each other out. But if you put a pedal on top with a coil in it like an old wah pedal, it would still pick up significant noise from a toroidal transformer, just nowhere near as bad as a regular one. Switching supplies don't generate the same kind of electromagnetic disturbance. But if they are poorly designed and not filtered properly they can be noisy, such as generic cheap ones designed for general use like charging your phone rather than for audio applications. I would expect anything made by the likes of Strymon or OneSpot to be well designed though. I was all set to buy a OneSpot CS-7 until I realised it would not fit under my Pedaltrain Metro.

[quote name='jasetbass' timestamp='1478860926' post='3172161'] Thanks for that, so another DC5 vote! Anything that involves me and power tools will inevitably end in disaster, so I don't think I'll be going down that road lol! [/quote] You need to drill holes in the Pedaltrain to mount the DC5 btw. It's quite heavy so double sided tape might not hold up and there's not enough clearance to use Velcro without bigger feet!

[quote name='jasetbass' timestamp='1478850737' post='3172058'] Appreciate the reply. Yeah, realise I'm limited with the Nano. That's why I'm trying to get advice on both board and supply, 'cos if consensus was that the ToneTrunk was rubbish, then that pretty much makes my mind up. The Diamond's optical isn't it? Do you think it's an optical thing or specific to the Diamond? More to the point, did you leave the Diamond off your board, or replace it with a different compressor that didn't have the same problem? Cheers [/quote] I think it must just be the Diamond, I now use an Effectrode PC-2A which is also optical and that doesn't have any noise problems whatsoever. What pedals are you powering? I would start off with a simple 1-Spot if they are all 9V and analog.

[quote name='arthurhenry' timestamp='1478953847' post='3172915'] For me, instantly recognising a familiar chord sequence takes away from the effect of the lyrics and melody. If I wrote something which fitted a I, V, VI, IV progression, I'd scrap it, as I couldn't bear to be that predictable. [/quote] That's fine if you're writing music for people to stroke their beards to. But most people who listen to and enjoy music don't even know what a chord progression is.

So if we have a bass that has gone through the machine so that it set up to it's absolute optimum setup with one certain set of strings / neck relief, let's imagine that's 99% perfect. Change the strings or tweak the truss rod and it might drop to 90% perfect. On the other hand a luthier doing everything manually without the precision or calculations offered by the machine would probably be lucky to get to that 90% spot in the first place. Then change the strings or tweak the truss and you might drop to 80%. Your argument against the PLEK process, that changing the strings or relief after the setup result in a sub-optimal setup, surely also applies to the human luthier. If the process the luthier goes through gave better results than the PLEK, why would they not just change their model / algorithm to match whatever a human would do? I suspect it is currently doing a better job than most humans, assuming the brains behind the algorithm have everything correct.

Happy Effectrode PC-2A user here, traded it with a Diamond. It's a very overlooked pedal, yet Ovnilab places it in the top tier.

I would admit defeat and get a 3Leaf Octabvre Mini. Never found a decent OC-2 replacement on iOS!

The DC5 is the only one that will fit under a Pedaltrain Nano, I recommend it (Hotrox sell them). I tested plenty of pedals on top of the power supply, into a headphone amp with the treble whacked up to check for noise introduced by pedals being too near the power supply. There was a barely detectable hum introduced with some pedals when placed directly over the supply. Certainly not an issue, even when recording. The Diamond compressor picked up loads of noise when it was anywhere on the board though, even in bypass, yet was fine when placed directly on the floor!

[quote name='redbandit599' timestamp='1478534813' post='3169674'] You might be interested in this - also a bargain, I know I got one at a few quid less £527. But £534 brand new. Looks great in black (I have a white Bb1024x too and I think teh black edges it in the looks dept.) https://www.bax-shop.co.uk/right-handed-bass-guitar/yamaha-bb1025x-5-string-electric-bass-guitar-black [/quote] I have that exact bass, and that is a bargain especially considering the state of the £ right now!

The EMG Geezer Butler is a vintage voiced pickup but with the modern convenience of coming with pre-wired pots and solderless connections. Gets rave reviews too.

Can you use it with any iOS app? Garageband has free bass amp sims that sound very good indeed.

[quote name='dudewheresmybass' timestamp='1478694375' post='3170967'] Just for pure headphone practise I use the ehx headphone amp. Sounds great, battery powered, and the size of a mooer pedal [/quote] No aux input on that though, they missed an opportunity there!

[quote name='jazzyvee' timestamp='1478540225' post='3169738'] + 1 on the PJB Big head it's extremely high quality soundwise and . I've had two of the Vox amplug things and whilst i thought they sounded fine, the weak point is the plastic jackplug which is extremely weak and is the part that broke on one of mine and the other was the headphone jack just pushed inside one day when I was plugging in. I wouldn't recommend them. The only gripe I have on the PJB is that I've never got anywhere near the "Up to 8 hours" that it says in their literature and when it goes flat, the lead isn't long enough to plug it in and keep playing whilst sat on the sofa. [/quote] It uses a standard USB lead though so you can get an extension cable, or even plug it into a power pack designed for recharging mobiles.

Maybe their 'ultra low' isn't that low! Just launched it and there is only 'low' and 'ultra low'. Tried it with GarageBand? It has free Ampeg sims that sound better than anything else I've found on iOS.

Have you tried setting the latency to ultra low in the AmpliTube settings? You can get it even lower if you run it inside Audiobus, as Audiobus locks the latency of apps running inside it and the settings allow you to go lower than most other apps will.

Quite the opposite, it's one of the only supplies along with its little brother the CS7 where you can pretty much ignore the ratings on the individual outputs the outputs as long as you don't exceed the total for the entire brick.

Ask someone else, I've tried neither!

Email [email protected] and ask about the Renegade basses. There's also a Rickenfaker group on Facebook where you'll find a few for sale!

Something reasonably priced that can cover light grit to heavy distortion... perhaps the MXR Bass Distortion? http://youtu.be/yc6EMg9dKZc

The Aftershock is way more versatile, but it is a pain to program. If you put the time into it though you could end up with a bunch of presets for different tracks - Motorhead sounds pretty different to Muse for example! You can get some decent fuzz sounds from blending for example a Muff and Darkglass model in parallel. If it's definitely a heavy fuzz you seek the Duality could work but forget trying to coax overdrive sounds from it - it desperately needs a gain control!

WD Music sell proper non-printed tort, I have one on one of my Ps. I'd ask the chap from Limelight, his builds have decent looking reliced tort guards if you want something that looks worn in.

I don't think it would have active/passive in stock form, and I've never heard of active/passive switching achieved by turning a pot that wasn't a push/pull or rotary switch. Either way, it would only pass signal without a battery if it was passive, or if it was active with intelligent switching to fallback to passive in the event of a battery failure. Sounds like this guy butchered your electronics without knowing what he was doing!

The Ampegs in Garageband are top notch also, I prefer them to the various amp models I've paid good money for and these were free!

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1477565206' post='3162978'] Does she deserve to be ripped off just because she only has a basic knowledge of using a computer, and didn't spend hours on Google first? [/quote] Sorry to break it to you, but yes.

Character is essentially a mid control placed before the overdrive section. If you want grit, just turn the gain down - with the gain low, you can even have cleans at 100% blend. Mild overdrive always sounds best fully wet IMHO as long as there's enough low end - the blend is only useful to me at high gain where all that crunch robs your signal of low end and dynamics.