dannybuoy

Oh yes and rumour has it this is the exact same pedal that Hartke have rebranded and released as their bass chorus (for 4x the price!). Btw the finish is matte and badly applied, came with a free dirty fingerprint smudge, the pots feel really flimsy and the footswitch is loud and clicky (mechanically that is, no popping heard in use). But for the money you can't go wrong! [url="http://www.samsontech.com/hartke/products/accessories/pedals/hc33"]Hartke HC33[/url]

Btw, in my experience there are two main source of noise in pedalboards.[list=1] [*]Some pedals can introduce hiss or whine into the signal just by sharing the same daisy chain. Try unplugging the power from each pedal one at a time to see if there is a main culprit. [*]Some patch cables have poor shielding and take in a lot of interference, especially if you have a dimmer switch nearby. With my dimmer switch on, I put my patch cables in a true bypass looper and found that anything with plastic jacks, added a massive amount of buzzing to my signal just by having one single patch cable in line! [/list] After taking out the problem pedals, or putting them on their own separate supply, and ditching all the dodgy patch cables, I have a very quiet setup with my Johnny Shredfreak PSU now!

Truetone CS-12 has AC output and can handle anything you can throw at it!

I had an inkling that a chorus would work really well on a track I'm to play soon, so thought I'd pick one of these up for £15 delivered from eBay. Zero low end loss and it sounds great! Lovely warm sound from those analog bucket brigade delay chips. Recommended if you're after a chorus on the cheap! http://www.nuxefx.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=52&id=235 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYW0mYYN3-4

The MB Fusion and Tone Hammer are fine amps, also maybe look into a Tech21 VT500 or (the now discontinued) Orange Terror Bass. Actually if it was likely to be just used for practice and being lugged on a train I would just get the GK MB200 or TC Electronic BH250! Then if you wanted to change the sound of perhaps do so from a pedal; but the TC has tone prints that should cover a lot of ground. It also has a tuner, so one less thing to take to practice!

Ask Kiogon for a solderless kit and you can just screw the pickup and bridge earth in place without having to solder a thing!

Yup - very few basses have active pickups, they are nearly always passive pickups with an active preamp.

Are you chaps using it on bass? Vibe isn't something I'd ever considered.

I've got a Manta and dual expression pedal on the way to me... Considered the hot hand but wasn't sure it would work for what I need - controlling very subtle opening of an almost closed low pass filter, and doing a slow steady sweep over a few bars. I'll probably get one to try if I see a good deal on one! I like to play Super Sharp Shooter whenever I'm plugged into an octaver too!

Sounds quite similar to the Tone Hammer from your description. That pedal does Motown like no other! For pick playing my top 'pick' is the Blower Box set to low-ish gain.

Yup, I've been thinking of contacting both Tom and Max for a quote to see what they come up with. I do prefer the aesthetic of the COG pedals however.

Alternative layout for you - JMJ! You can get the MM pickup in the sweet spot then have the J's either side in a sandwich. The J will be quite far back in the 70s-ish position but it should be a good setup, best of both worlds!

[quote name='DanEly' timestamp='1471589000' post='3114153'] Pretty sure the GigRig G2 does this? [/quote] At £749, I don't care what it does! A little 1590A nano box with one footswitch and a couple of mini pots would be ideal. Maybe if there's enough interest and it's a common problem for everyone, someone like Tom at COG or Max at SFX could get on the case and do a small production run?

Never. Although if it ever did happen, I bet it would be my Yamaha BB1025X. Those new bridges are string through body combined with a really sharp fulcrum resting point at the saddle!

I have a few pedals that suffer from one of the following issues:[list] [*]Volume drop or boost when enaged, but no volume knob on the pedal to sort it (e.g. Mini Q-Tron, Phase 90) [*]Pedal sensitive to input levels, e.g: [list] [*]My Mr Black Fwonkbeta only triggers properly with reasonably high output bass [*]My COG T16 sounds much fatter with a more consistent tone with a slight clean boost before it [*]Various overdrives don't react well to high output basses [/list] [/list] I want a simple true bypass loop pedal that has a gain trim control on the send and return. Does such a thing exist?

I own a T16 but prefer the tone of the Ovtabvre from clips I've heard, it's more OC-2 like. I'd be happy with an OC-2 if it had more volume on tap for the solo octave tone! I have an Octabvre Mini inbound, let battle commence!

Always fancied auditioning one too. Big Blueberry fan also, but I've been using my Tone Hammer pedal instead lately, amazing when set up for subtle drive.

If anyone who has one plans on popping in there soon, take it with you to show him and have a word!

I put a Stinger in mine but then put it back to stock as it sounded too dull. If you like that treble bite, mod the stock pre or go for something else.

Talk about it then!

If you only want it for recording Youtube demos that seems overkill. Do you need to record more than a couple of tracks, say a bass and a mic?

If the compressor is always on, you might not need for the buffer, since it effectively is one. The only reason you would need the buffer is to prevent signal losses if you were running a long chain of FX and the compressor was near the end instead of near the beginning of the chain.

[quote name='Westenra' timestamp='1469802815' post='3101196'] Software sounds so sterile and too perfect to my ears, give me genuine pedals any day [/quote] These reverb pedals are all digital though and therefore run software inside them! Are there any reverbs other than the Nimbus that have a high pass filter on them so that just the top end is reverberated?

Looks like Thunderbolt-to-Firewire adaptors can cause issues with audio interfaces btw: https://cooltechpc.com/articles/thunderbolt-firewire-and-usb [quote]Although Apple has released a Thunderbolt to Firewire adapter, it isn’t a direct conversion. The Thunderbolt to Firewire adapter actually places another chip in between the Thunderbolt port and your Firewire device, which requires a driver. This will cause issues with audio devices, which are particular about which chipset your 1394 (Firewire) card has. External devices (such as the M-audio Project Mix I/O) may not even show up, unless you use a 1394 card that has a TI chipset. If you need to use a Firewire device (particularly for audio recording), we recommend using a Firewire card that has a TI chipset, instead of using Apple’s Thunderbolt to Firewire adapter. Alternatively, you could use onboard Firewire, but beware onboard Firewire doesn’t normally include a TI chipset, and is subject compatibility problems. This is why we use Firewire cards with the 1394 Ti chipset in them when building our digital audio pcs (if the customer wants the option of using Firewire).[/quote]