dannybuoy

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1470995582' post='3109814'] I'm more or less in agreement with the Japanese Axeperson. In my experience the cheaper Uke Basses have poor intonation, with little option for adjustment. If I was buying again I'd go for Kala. The feel of the rubbery strings needs getting used to as well. What about a semi-hollow bass? Their looks might be acceptable to your band and if you're going have to use amplification a bass of that kind would be versatile for other ventures. Options; Chowny, Yamaha BEX, Fender Coronado, Ibanez, etc. Usually something good for sale on this forum! [/quote] The Kala is just as bad as the cheaper clones when it comes to intonation. The fretless would overcome it, or make things worse, depending on your accuracy! If the U-Bass appeals but want a bigger version, check out the Aquila ShortBass One. There was a used one up for sale recently on one of the Facebook groups. Ever considered an EUB or one of these? [url="http://baby-bass.com"]http://baby-bass.com[/url]

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1470903038' post='3109196'] Which strings have you found good? [/quote] I haven't experimented too much with 5 strings sets, I have a fair few sets left to try! But the Fender P5 I had was floppy as heck until I put some TI Flats on it - even though they are known as low tension strings. Right now I have a Yamaha BB1025X and the Warwick Rockbass Streamer. I've tried various Dunlop sets on the Yam but the D'Addario nickels that came stock with it work so much better. The Dunlop Super Bright Steels are the floppiest of the lot! The aforementioned Warwick hasn't seen much play time and still has the stock steels! But that low B is as tight as gnat's chuff. They are dead and due a change, but am planning to swap the pickups out as the stock ones are ridiculously weak. I have some DR Hi-Beams to try out, but I've been really impressed with the D'Addario Flex Steels on my 4-string T-Bird, so might try those or the Pro Steels. Making sure the string is dead straight with no twists when you string it up is also a big factor is getting a clear sounding string, many forget this, especially if they wrap the string around the posts a couple of times to save winding and haven't rotated the rest of the string through to the ball end to compensate for the twisting.

You CAN get a decent low B in a cheap instrument. I've owned a few 5ers up to the £1.2k price range, and the £280 Warwick Rockbass Streamer I have blows them all out of the water and can seriously hang with the super expensive stuff I've tried out. It has a stiff multi laminate neck and very tight neck joint. There are tons of expensive boutique basses out there that just use standard woods and traditional construction methods, so price isn't always an indicator of how well the low B will perform. The most important difference is the right strings, and making sure they are fitted properly. I've had bad Bs made great, and great Bs made bad, just by changing the string type.

I have a 34" Warwick Rockbass Streamer 5er, the low B is clear as a bell and the best I've found, better than 35" Sandberg etc basses I've tried too. Cost me under £300 new!

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1470860034' post='3109059'] Yes, I bought mine off the back of that and am very satisfied with. It takes up a lot of space on the pedal board though! [/quote] I just got a Hotone Bass Press, much smaller and sounds great. Miss the instant-on action of my old G-Lab though.

Here's a few to look into: Tech 21 VT Bass / Sansamp Bass Driver Aguilar Tonehammer Two Notes Le Bass / Torpedo CAB Ampeg SCR-DI EBS Microbass GK Plex DSM OmniCabSim Line 6 Bass Pod / Bass Pod XT / X3 / HD Zoom B1on / B1xon / B3 / MS-60B Digitech multis I recommend the Tonehammer for a creamy vintage sound (perfection with a P + flats), the Le Bass for modern grind (Jazz + rounds, mmm), and the VT Bass which can cover the lot (especially if you get the DI or Fly Rig with the new bite control). All of which happen to be analog, not that I've anything against digital. I haven't tried the PODs, but have not been impressed with Zoom's offerings. There are some great amp sims on iOS, the ones in Tonestack and the free ones in Garageband sound particularly good.

I suspected as much, if the master is pre fx-loop, it must also be pre-DI. Terrible design! Sounds great though.

Love mine too. The bite button, introduced on the DI model is perfect for a more mellow sound, e.g. P-Bass with flats... then turn it on for a more aggressive roundwound sound. It does have a few minor issues: - The clean portion of the blend control is very low volume compared to the Sansamp side. I thought I would be able to use it as a pure clean amp set to 0% blend, but it doesn't get loud enough set like this. - The level coming out of the FX send is affected by the master volume control. If you use the FX loop, turning up your master could distort or otherwise affect your effects! On every other amp I've used, it goes gain -> fx loop -> master volume, which is much more sensible. - I've not tested the DI yet but won't be surprised if it too is affected by the master volume. Pretty poor show if so, you don't want your PA volume affected if you decide to adjust your on-stage rig volume. Perhaps someone could chip in here?

You can connect quite a few USB audio interfaces to the iPad via a Lightning-to-USB cable, AKA camera connection kit. The Bighead also works as a USB audio interface, so I wondered if it would be possible to connect it and have ordered a cable off eBay to test. Has anyone tried this? I'll update with my results in case anybody else with one wants to give it a go! I currently use a Line6 Sonic Port but it doesn't have enough juice to drive my Beyer headphones loud enough so I use it in conjunction with the Bighead performing headphone amp duties. But if this cable works out I can eliminate the Sonic Port!

Almost, Low Frequency Oscillator. It makes things wobble. But I assumed our man was asking which pedal it was, not what an LFO is?

I would buy this if the price was right, always fancied building a stealth bass. I would of course have to fix the pickup hole and height out!

I forgot about the Deluxe Bass Big Muff in this pack, just tried it and it's decent! But in typical Positive Grid fashion, they screwed up at least one control, the LPF doesn't really do anything except go from on to off within the first 2% of the dial.

The Mutron on Tonestack is pretty good.

So there's a new bass expansion for BIAS FX. What a waste of £8! The bass envelope filter is supposed to be a Q-Tron. But it doesn't filter anything, just sounds the same as bypassed when I turn it on. Even worse than the Mutron which barely sweeps and has the direction control labelled the wrong way around. The octaver is glitch city and the rest aren't very good either.

Squier Classic Vibe all the way. 70s / Matt Freeman if you like maple, or 60s if you prefer rosewood (like myself)!

Both! Depending on the bass and/or the tune I'm playing, either one could be best for the job. If I had to choose one, it would be envelope filter.

The Truetone CS-7 looks the better of the two. If everything's 9V then it should run fine off a simple regular OneSpot... but digital pedals can add noise onto a daisy chain, so I would hit google to see if there are any noise issues with people running a G30 without isolated power.

On my Yamaha BB1025X, the bridge J pup is louder than the P, and combined together they sound glorious and full! Perhaps an Entwhistle neo pickup.. only £10 and from what I've heard, just about the loudest you can get? [url="http://www.entwistlepickups.com/pickup.php?puid=JBX"]http://www.entwistle...up.php?puid=JBX[/url] (EDIT: It appears the JBXN is the neo one and seems to no longer be made, not sure how the JBX compares) If not that, then the Seymour Duncan quarter pounder.

They have a fuzz, chorus and looper too it seems...

I'm building my first bitsa P-Bass at the moment Aidan, I am ok with electrics, adjusting the bridge and truss rod but that's about it. You're more than welcome to be let loose upon the nut and frets once I've completed it!

I thought the 410 had a horn and the 115 didn't? If so I would've thought the 115 would sound even muddier.

My Basic has a single MM pickup, is very light and sounds plenty warm (but it is wearing flats and plugged into an Orange Terror Bass!). If your pickup has the massive Delano / Musicman style pole pieces, perhaps a more traditional Precision pickup would help. But if you don't like the sound or the weight, perhaps it's time to move it on and just buy something else?

For octavers, you need to choose between analog and digital first and foremost. All the digital ones track prettying well, but most of them sound like a pure pitch shifted copy of your bass, and sometimes suffer from a noticeable delay between the wet and dry signal, as well as some artifacts that make them stick out as digital. Analog octavers usually track well as long as you stick to single notes and don't play too low. Their tones can vary from a smooth sine wave to a more synthy sounding square wave. But even the synthier sounding ones just sound like fat bass when put into a mix. For me it's analog all the way, they just sound fatter.

What kind of neck are you going for? I think they all have the vintage style truss rod access at the heel by the way, which is a bummer.

Does that amp have a headphone output? If the sound is fine through headphones, then at least you can narrow it down to the power section.